2 dimples and $8000

Hi all,
Basically the lack of 2 dimples in the cutlass bearing will lead to an expenditure of $8000 for me. It’s a long story, but you can read it here at http://www.garyfelton.com/shanti/

I would also like to thank Rod on Iduna and Douglas on Calliste for their input regarding the rebuilding of the shaft log/cutlass bearing. Great info, helped alot guys!.

Also have a question. For those of you with experince on a Volvo 2002. How many hours did you get before rebuild? Information on other engines will be helpful also, but please mention the engine.

I am thinking at present of repowering with a rebuilt yanmag 3GM. What are the maintence quirks of that engine. Any tips on there maintence will be helpful. Also I will be adding a 15" Kiwi feathering prop. Any insights there will be appreciated. Pitch??

Thanks everyone…see you on the water soon I hope.

ugh…sorry to hear gary.

Gary,
Thanks very much for the dimple story! What a nightmare! Hopefully it will help other cruisers avoid that kind of problem.

We replaced our original 1981 (only ~1000 hrs!) Volvo MD11C with a new Yanmar 3GM30F in 1988. The Volvo had a dipstick/strainer setup that if it wasn’t always tightened down, resulted in loss of oil pressure. The operator’s manual said don’t remove the stainer when changing oil (which I didn’t), and keep the strainer screwed down (I tried). The local Seattle dealer/distributor didn’t have the Volvo tool to tighten it down, so I tried to keep it tight with long-nose pliers gripped by vise-grips, because it kept vibrating loose. On the way back from the Queen Charlotte Islands, the engine sized up and we ended up getting a tow from friends for the last 100 miles to Seattle. (No wind, tidal currents, and having to return to work narrowed our choices.) The crankshaft bearings were toast, and a rebuild that included valves, rings and crankshaft was about $3000. Sam got me a new 3GM30F for $4000. I was working full time, I was no diesel mechanic, and we were planning a 2 yr cruise to F. Polynesia the next summer. It wasn’t a difficult decision.

The 3GM30F has been great. Marty Chin has lots of info in the Maintenance Tips part of the forum. I did have black oily stuff in the cooling water reservoir after 1000 hrs that was combustion products getting from the cylinder into the freshwater coolant via the head gasket. A new gasket cured the problem for the next 4000 hrs. I heard of other 3GM30F engines having the same problem at that time–around 1988. There’s only about 1/8" between the cylinder and the cooling port, and if the gasket is shifted a bit one way on the studs, it’s LESS than 1/8". Of course I now carry a spare head gasket, and of course I’ve never needed it.

Marty is a professional diesel mechanic and had the BCC Shamrock for a number of years. I think he liked the Univeral a bit more than the 3GM30F. My diesel mechanic really likes the new 3YM30F which he says is a “drop-in” for the 3GM30. The 3GM30F’s backward facing raw water pump is annoying but hasn’t been a big problem (changed on the 3YM30). My mechanic tells me that the slow starting of the 3GM30 in cold weather has been greatly improved with the 3YM30’s glow plugs. Not a problem in the tropics. In the 5000 hrs, I’ve had to replace the lift pump, the raw and fresh water pumps. I had the transmission rebuilt this winter–it was increasingly not going into gear from neutral for several seconds, and then going clunk into gear. The injectors were redone several years ago but I had no trouble getting them out and back in. A compression test gave excellent numbers.

I think Yanmar dealers and parts are widely available–we found lots of dealers in NZ and Australia. My Yanmar mechanic tried to discourage me from rebuilding ours, which I was considering until I had the compression check, had the injectors rebuilt, and installed a new exhaust elbow. He said the parts you don’t rebuild will then give out on you, and with high labor costs, I’d be better off spending the money on a new engine. He quoted me a price of about $8000 for a new 3YM30F last year. So I guess the more compete the rebuilt 3GM30, the better–not only rings and valves, but crankshaft bearings,and other bearings and seals, including aft drive shaft bearings and seal (ours leaks a bit).

Do I remember the 2002 Volvo having a drop-down angle between the plane of the engine mounts and that of the drive shaft? Maybe 5 or 10 degrees? Probalby a good experienced mechanic has dealt with the problem many times.

Good luck Gary. I enjoy your forum input and your great blog.

Dan sv Shaula

Thanks Dan!
I was considering the Universal, but they are not as easy to find reconditioned as the Yanmar.