Have any of you with cabin heaters noticed any evidence of heat
damage to adjoining wood or glass ? I can’t decide whether to put SS
heat shielding around the cabin heater on my new BCC.
If you’re using a Force 10 Cozy cabin heater, I don’t think it generates
enough heat to cause any damage. However, my installation does include a
stainless steel sheet overhead and ceramic tiles behind. But neither of
them ever seem to get hot.
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Hiller [mailto:jhiller@ameritech.net ]
Sent: Tuesday, September 17, 2002 5:48 AM
To: bcc@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bcc] cabin heaters
Have any of you with cabin heaters noticed any evidence of heat
damage to adjoining wood or glass ? I can’t decide whether to put SS
heat shielding around the cabin heater on my new BCC.
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Hi Jim:
We have the Force 10 cabin heater installed by the factory in
the “stock” location by the liquor cabinet. It sits on a tiled
surface and has the S/S plate installed on the overhead above it. I
used it extensively a couple of years ago when it was freezing, can
you believe it, in Florida. My experience comports with Gary’s
comments. The surrounding bulkhead and cabinet wood stayed
completely cool and the S/S plate only got warm. Most of the “heat”
goes up (naturally). In fact I ended up installing a Hella fan just
a couple of inches away from it to blow the warm air out into the
cabin which made a significant difference.
Good luck with your new BCC!
Pete
S/V TwoLoose (BCC115)
— In bcc@y…, “Jim Hiller” <jhiller@a…> wrote:
Have any of you with cabin heaters noticed any evidence of heat
damage to adjoining wood or glass ? I can’t decide whether to put
SS
heat shielding around the cabin heater on my new BCC.
At 12:48 PM 9/17/2002 +0000, you wrote:
Have any of you with cabin heaters noticed any evidence of heat
damage to adjoining wood or glass ? I can’t decide whether to put SS
heat shielding around the cabin heater on my new BCC.
Jim:
Just got back from a short, weekend trip on Green Bay. Woke to
temps in the 40’s this morning and used my Force 10 heater for the first
time. The side and bottom surfaces facing the stove were hardly warm to
the touch. The stainless plate over the stove was touchable but hot. It
appears to be mounted on 3/8" trim pieces. I am going to ask Tommy if
there is an air space void behind the plate. If not, I would suggest
building it that way. Don’t think you need any side protection. Sam Morse
used to do tile underneath. Nice looking but not neccessary.
Tom Harrer
S/V Whitewings III
Can I get some feedback on actual experience with cabin heaters on
BCC’s. Has anyone found a practical alternative mounting location
with the standard layout? We are talking about a heater for high
latitude use, not just taking the morning chill off. Always
interested in photos of installations and input based on experience.
Thanks everyone.
— In bcc@yahoogroups.com , “bernyandray <bernyandray@h…>”
<bernyandray@h…> wrote:
Can I get some feedback on actual experience with cabin heaters on
BCC’s. Has anyone found a practical alternative mounting location
with the standard layout? We are talking about a heater for high
latitude use, not just taking the morning chill off. Always
interested in photos of installations and input based on experience.
Thanks everyone.
My installation and experience is under messages #1747, 1748 and 1734.
I have a Force 10 Kero heater in the standard position. It is much
better for AM chill than real bitter cold. While it will heat the
cabin to about 85 when it is 30 out, air circulation is a problem. My
thermometer is at eye height and my feet are still cold. I tried
using a fan, but did not care for the draft. If you are serious about
real cold weather sailing, I would think about a diesel heater.
Having a relatively unlimited supply of heater fuel is appealing. I
have heard of someone installing their heater beneath the table at the
foot of the mast for better floor level heating. Makes sense if the
detail can be worked out.
John Churchill
|
Hi all, yes, the heater is at floor level aboard MINX. The photo shows it, as well as my swing-away table Sumio is about to copy for his own boat. It might work with the stock table with some modifications. I had the vent tube bent for me by a stainless railing guy from a wire mockup/ pattern I made. I wanted it to go through the cabin top rather than be in the way at the mast on deck. This heater location was a priority in the early design stages of the boat's construction.
This installation works well. It heats the whole boat right down to the floor. High setting on the propane Force 10 heater is too much and will cook you out of the boat. I built MINX in Washington, so have some idea of what cold rainy winters are like. A caveat is in order.
When it gets really cold, as in: below freezing, the amount of condensation in the forepeak and at the foot of the quarter berth becomes a problem. I may install a small fan through the bulkhead above the heater to move some air into the forepeak, or I might just switch to forced air diesel heat. The propane has proven to be reasonably economical, and heats the main cabin well enough, but if the boat were to be in Washington's waters (or colder) for the long term, forced air would be the only way to go. Forced air installations are best done during construction of the boat. The holes for the ducting are 3+ inch diameter. Imagine getting a large drill motor and hole saw inside all the necessary lockers for a clean installation. One other routing possibility exists; the use of the wiring duct at the sheer for conducting heat forward.
The biggest advantages of the Force 10 installation are low cost and relatively quick install. Heat is adequate, but if the vessel is expecting to stay in cold climates for very long, the dry, exterior air, and lack of moisture are worth the expense and hassle.
Roy Myers
S/V MINX
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