Deck-Mounted Windlass

During my recent refit and paint job, I removed the windlass from the bowsprit and filled in the deck pipe hole. To get weight out of the bow area, I’m mounting my bronze ABI windlass on the foredeck forward of the scuttle hatch. I’ll be using a 40mm teak pad, and below, a stainless backing pad. I’ll be using thinned and thickened epoxy to protect the exposed wood inside the hole from water, but what about wear and tear on the wood caused by the chain? Should I somehow line the hole with PVC pipe or something similar?

I’d thought about purchasing a separate and slightly smaller diameter round deck pipe fitting and installing that over the hole, then shaping the underside of the teak pad to accept the flange and installing the windlass over top.

Any advise is greatly appreciated.

Hi Warren, for some logical reason, I wanted to be able to positvely close off the chain down pipe hole, with a ball valve.

I installed a bronze flush thru hull fitting in the fore deck, under the windless chain drop hole, then installed the windless over that.

If I found that my boat was taking too much sea water onboard in stormy seas, thru that chain down pipe hole, I would jettison the anchor and close the ball valve.

Will try to attach a pic , here.

Douglas

Douglas,

Thanks for that. Looks like a solid setup. Those are, what, 2"- 2.5" fittings? Are you using chain and rode for your anchoring or chain only?

I like the idea of the through-hull. That would provide flexibility in how to proceed and protect the wood of my deck from rot and damage.

BTW: You have what looks to be a 4" deck plate aft of the windlass. Do you have a dorade on deck or do you simply screw in a cowl? Is it useful in ventilating the forepeak? I’m thinking of doing the same thing.

This is something I look at everyday, and wonder what to do. I did lay epoxy over that exposed core, but that’s just a temporary solution. I want to do my usual rout out a 1/4" of core and fill with thickened epoxy. I think that should do the trick.

Douglas, do you have a pic of this from the deck side? And is there a provision in your set up for rain water while at anchor?

I like the thru hull idea too, but would still like the option of having a normal cap with cut out for chain to pass thru to protect against rain water while at anchor. I spend most of my time on the the hook. A thru hull with a short stand pipe braised/welded to it would work for that I suppose… unless there is something out there already made that is what I’m talking about. Perhaps two tightening nuts on a threaded pipe, but threaded pipe coming up thru the deck wouldn’t be my first choice for visually appealing deck hardware.

Hi Warren , off hand not sure what size of flush brnz thru hull skin fitting that I used, but it probably is a 2" fitting.

Yes, I use all chain rode , 5/16" H T proof coil galvanized 300’ chain, marked every 5 fathoms like the Pardey’s system.

There are two 3" or 4" (?) bronze deck plates infront of the windless, the one closest to the windless is to cover up a hole .

The second deck plate fwd and to port, is for a cowel vent, while in port, and at sea, I replace the cowel, with another deck plate that has a nipple in the middle, to attach the anchor chain wash down hose to it.