My hull interior was insulated with thin, 1/4 inch,cork sheets behind the fiber glass paneling. Go back with same material for condensation control and general insulation purposes or use something else like a polyurethane foam panel? Any thoughts or guidance most appreciated.
David Kent
Sea Star
I contemplated using Reflectix foil under 1/2" polyurethane but decided against it because of the amount of work to do it. The local BCC here says that their only regret was not insulating, but they also live aboard here in the PNW.
The boat I learned to sail on, raced on, and ultimately met my wife on had no insulation to speak off and stayed relatively dry because of really good ventilation. Granted good insulation is defiantly worth it.
Here is a blog of someone insulating their Triton with Armaflex AP with Refletix foil over. I would have put the foil against the hull personally because I’m trying to keep the radiant heat from coming through from the outside. http://triton680.com/Insulation/triton680_insulation.html
Good Luck! How is Sea Star doing? Got a website with pictures or a blog yet?
Bryon
Thanks Bryon,the armaflex appears to be a good option.
Rebuild project moving along. The fiber glass repairs are complete. Will glass in 3 starboard bulkheads next week. The new Beta engine should also arrive next week.
No blog but attached are recent photos
i would encourage you to start a blog Dave, its a bit of fun. I think hey are doin a good glass job. There is a ways to go yet, I know…
Wow, cool I didnt know this was happening – Glad to see it David!
Great pics. She is coming along for sure! Funny, because I was looking at that Beta engine this weekend and don’t know anyone who has installed one. Be interested in learning of your experience with it later.
Nothing better than seeing a boat come back from the dead!
Cheers,
Bryon
Beta Engines:
I repowered my boat with a Beta BD1005 in 1995, replacing a Volvo MD2
Since repowering I have had nothing but a good experience, apart from one failure where the fuel pump failed because of a copper pipe snapping, caused by vibration at low revs.
The Beta is 150 lbs lighter than the volvo and puts out about 25% more power. However there are couple of things to consider:
The extra power output required a modification of the prop, because running the new engine at 1700 rpm produced a speed of 7.5 knots.
Because the BD1005 is a 3 cylinder engine with no flywheel there is considerably more vibration throughout the boat a low revolutions, but as soon as you are at 1000 rpm this is no longer a problem. (Idle should be set at <> 750 rpm)
On my 1995 engine there is a need for a pre-heater before starting the motor; this means that in a crisis you have to preheat for 20 seconds before you can start the engine. It hasn’t been a problem yet, but it is one I am aware of. It is probable that the later engines don’t have this problem.
My particular model does not have compression release valves, so in the event of a weak battery you are screwed. It is therefore important to ensure you have enough cranking voltage, but the demand is much less than the old Volvo.
Parts replacement has never been a problem, and filters are available in any autoparts store.
I really find this engine hard to fault apart from the issues mentioned above, It is quiet, responsive and VERY fuel efficient. I just bought fuel last weekend, the first time for 2 years!
Thanks John for the info. I see that engine in every mag I read but have never actually heard anything about it.
Bryon
David:
The Phoenix arises from the ashes. Sea Star looks great - well done.
Rod
BCC IDUNA
Thanks Rod,
The ability to tap into the expertise that you and others provide through our forum is ian nvaluable resource.
Best
David
