marking Anchor chain

BCC Forum
1

Could someone give me some advise on the method and materials used to mark an anchor chain.

Thanks.

Rich Graver
S/V Susie Q

2

I like the method that the Pardey’s write about on page 250 of their book “Cost Conscious Cruiser”. They use short lengths of 1/2" tubular nylon sewn around the link. Sew one in a link at 5 fathoms. Sew one in two links at 10 fathoms, etc. The only variation I use is to skip a link when using multiple marks, that way I can position the marks to be pointed up as they pass through the cathead and can’t jam.

Doug Beu
s/v Fritha
----- Original Message -----
From: BCC Forums
To: bccforum@samlmorse.com
Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2007 7:41 AM
Subject: [BCC Forum Post] graver: marking Anchor chain

Author: graver
Username: graver
Subject: marking Anchor chain
Forum: BCC Forum
Link: http://www.samlmorse.com/forum/read.php?5,5915,5915#msg-5915

Could someone give me some advise on the method and materials used to mark an anchor chain.

Thanks.

Rich Graver
S/V Susie Q

3

Hi Rich,

I tried using zip ties this year, and so far so good. I used fairly large white zip ties. I put 1 tie @ 30’, 2 ties @ 60’ and 3 ties @ 90’ and its been working great. I anchor almost everyday.

-B

4

Rich: Hi!

Reckon if every BCC owner responds we’d see almost as many marking schemes. And each will likely have its advantage.

We can break down the advice into three areas:

  1. The transcendant (ie no marking scheme)
    Installing a rode counter (aka chain counter) on your anchor winch adds to complexity, but has big benefits. The rode counter consists of a magnet (attached to the chainwheel), a sensor (that counts the passes of the magnet), and a tiny computer integrated into a display unit (usually LED - so v visible at night.

Benefits: when weighing anchor, the best systems are one-touch: with one touch of a button, the winch will take up exactly the length of rode you let out, with a warning noise when it approaches that mark. One-touch frees you to wash the rode and anchor, check against chain piles in the locker, and over-ride the system manually when you need. Dropping anchor and rode can be done entirely from the cockpit. Works well at night with the LEDisplay (when physical markers on the rode can be hard to see).

Disadvantages: dependency on electro-mechanical devices (and their propensity to fail); the need to use the winch for weighing and dropping always, and cost. Zygote doesn’t have a rode counter so far.

  1. Marking codes
    Most marking techniques rely on color vision and/or physical presence. Color vision declines with ambient light, so dark colors aren’t v successful (although solid black can be seen in all but the darkest night). A code of three colors and/or three presences is about the limit for most people unless they have v big brains.

See Anchor Chain Marking System for one three-color scheme; you’ll find plenty others.

I’ve a small hat size, so Zygote uses only two colors for marking rode length, with the addition of one presence mark for a special marker.

I marked Zygote’s primary rode with a yellow marker every 5 metres, because I anchor at a 5:1 scope and the sonar is calibrated in metres.

Zygote also has a white marker at 3 metres above the anchor (when the white marker is above water, it’s time to prepare to stow the anchor).

And a physical presence marker that indicates just how much chain should be out when the anchor is properly stowed and secured.

  1. Mark technology
    Your local chandlery will likely to happy to sell you commercial products to mark your chain (eg plastic clips in two or three colors). I’ve never found a suitable commercial marking product.

The most common DIY mark tech is paint. Paint doesn’t adhere well to newly galvanised chain, but that problem goes with time. Be liberal with paint - a painted band 60 cm (2 feet) wide is much better than painting only two links. Annual re-painting brings an opportunity to inspect the chain and clean the chain locker.

I gave up using paint one boat ago.

Zygote uses a color mark tech that Roger Olson teaches: I bought a few metres of inexpensive yellow laid polypropylene rope. Unlay the strands and cut the strands into lengths of 60 cm. Then weave the strands into the chain; the strands cannot interfere with your winch.

Zygote also uses cable ties as a presence mark tech. I use cable ties that are 30 cm (6 inches) long and leave the tail of the cable tie intact. I use only one per rode, to mark the chain link that should be on the bow roller when the anchor is correctly stowed.

So that leads me to describing Zygote’s anchoring technique. I take the max water depth (allowing for tidal rise) and add 2 metres to that (to account for the distance from Z’s forward anchor roller to the waterline) and round it to an integer - I call that total figure the anchor drop. That’s also the number of marks (since each mark is 5 m apart) of rode to give a scope of 5:1. Then I attach a nylon rope snubber and let out chain to make the snubber taut. I write the rode length in the logbook (along with compass bearings to landmarks and GPS position). If the wind blows to 40 knots, I’ll reset the snubber after increasing scope to 7:1 or 10:1.

Before the 2004 tsunami, I used to like anchoring in 3 - 4 m of water. Since 2004, I often choose water around 7 - 8 m.

When weighing anchor, I take in rode, counting the marks, until the chain is up-and-down and the anchor about to break free of the bottom. When the white marker clears the water (and confirms my mark count), I wash the chain and prepare to stow anchor (temporary stow if just moving a short distance in flat water, a full stow if heading offshore). The cable tie marks how much chain should be out for the perfect full stow.

Cheers

Bil

5

Rich,

I tried using fairly large white zip ties and its been working well
so far. I put one zip itie @ 30’, 2 ties @ 60’ and 3 ties @ 90’. They
have stayed on all summer, and i’m anchored almost everyday.

-Ben

–
Ben Eriksen

Web Design
http://beneriksen.com

6

Thanks everyone for such quick and thorough advise. One other question. As you make each mark on the chain do you allow the chain to go into the water or does the marked chain remain on the deck.

7

Thanks everyone for such quick and thorough advise. One other question. As you make each mark on the chain do you allow the chain to go into the water or does the marked chain remain on the deck.