Re: Lazy Jack chafe More info

Tom,
I made a set of Roger’s Lazy jacks at least 6
years ago. I sailed the boat without them for a year
or two and still remember how great it was the first
time I dropped the sail and it stayed on the boom. I
think at the time the total cost was about $40.
I made them with nylon thimbles. All but one of
these has since worn out. I meant to replace them,
but never got around to it. The spliced loops do
create a little resistence, but really not a big deal.
If the line finally cuts through (no sign yet) it
will probably just be time to make a new set.
I don’t have cuts in my sailcover, so I put them
away next to the mast each time I put the cover on.
Maybe it’s because I had nylon and now just spliced
line, but I had no problem areas on the mast when the
boat was trucked back from Mexico last year.
Commercially made lazy jacks were about $250 when
I made mine. Roger’s design has served me well and
their design reminds me of a giant web. They go up
everytime I sail. Another benefit is that they catch
and hold the center of my reefed sail so well that I
no longer use the set of reefing ties I had put on the
sail. Hope the nylon or spliced lopps solve any
problems you may have had.
Wayne


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Hi All,

All this talk about lazy jacks had piqued my curiosity. Does anyone have a
plan of Roger’s lazy jack set-up? If so, I would be interested in obtaining
same.

Denis N Ripley
‘Bristol Cream’
----- Original Message -----
From: “The Edney’s” <bccodyssey@yahoo.com >
To: <bcc@yahoogroups.com >
Sent: Friday, January 10, 2003 6:15 PM
Subject: Re: [bcc] Lazy Jack chafe More info

Tom,
I made a set of Roger’s Lazy jacks at least 6
years ago. I sailed the boat without them for a year
or two and still remember how great it was the first
time I dropped the sail and it stayed on the boom. I
think at the time the total cost was about $40.
I made them with nylon thimbles. All but one of
these has since worn out. I meant to replace them,
but never got around to it. The spliced loops do
create a little resistence, but really not a big deal.
If the line finally cuts through (no sign yet) it
will probably just be time to make a new set.
I don’t have cuts in my sailcover, so I put them
away next to the mast each time I put the cover on.
Maybe it’s because I had nylon and now just spliced
line, but I had no problem areas on the mast when the
boat was trucked back from Mexico last year.
Commercially made lazy jacks were about $250 when
I made mine. Roger’s design has served me well and
their design reminds me of a giant web. They go up
everytime I sail. Another benefit is that they catch
and hold the center of my reefed sail so well that I
no longer use the set of reefing ties I had put on the
sail. Hope the nylon or spliced lopps solve any
problems you may have had.
Wayne


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Denis,
Here are the instructions I received from Roger when I made my lazy jacks.

Steve Osborne

I will attempt to walk you through my drawing of the lazy jacks…if this
fails let me know and I will fax or mail you a copy.

To make the lazy jacks you will need the following items:

61 feet of 1/4" three strand nylon rope.

6 small or 1/4" stainless steel eye straps

6 3/16" stainless steel thimbles

2 small or 4" to 6" open cleats

12 #10 X 1/2" stainless steel self tapping screws, round head

2 swivel brass spring clips like some people use to hook key chains to their
belt loop. These are available in any hardware store.

4 stainless steel machine screws to fit the cleats you buy

Something to bed the pieces to the aluminum such as Lanacote, loctite, 5200,
etc. I like Lanacote

Draw a mast and boom to rough scale. Locate the upper spreaders. Just under
the spreaders are the intermediate shroud tangs where the lazy jacks will be
attached with a bowline on either side of the mast.

All cleats and eye straps for the lazy jacks are located at the upper turn
of the boom. In other words, looking at a cross section of the boom you have
the slot on top. The boom is an oval with somewhat flat sides. The cleat and
eye straps go on the upper turn or at about 45 degrees to the top.

None of the following measurements have to be exact:

On the boom starting from the gooseneck pin, measure back or aft about 26"
and install a 4" to 6" cleat to the upper part of the boom on both sides.
The cleat should be open in the center so you can run the lazy jack rope
through it so you will never lose it.

Install a small stainless steel eye strap on both sides of the boom, on top
as mentioned above, at the locations mentioned below:

From the cleat back every forty inches for three eye straps or:

From the boom gooseneck pin back 5’ 6"; 8’ 10", and 12’

Letter these beginning from the aft end of the boom to the cleat from “A” to
“D” being the cleat.

Now make the lazy jacks. These will be numbered from 1 to 5

Line 1. Begin with a 9 foot piece of rope and splice a thimble on one end
only. Burn and tape the other. This will be attached to the mast
intermediate tangs.

Line 2. Cut a piece 19 feet long. On one end splice a thimble. Now pass the
other end through the thimble of line #1 before you splice the brass swivel
clip to the other end.

Line 3. Cut a piece 17 feet long and splice a thimble at one end. Pass the
other end through the thimble of line #2. This loose end will eventually be
tied to the eye on the boom “B”

Line 4. Cut a piece 13 feet long. Pass it through the thimble of line #3 and
tie both ends together temporarily. One end of this line will the tied to
eye “C” on the boom and the other will pass through the cleat “D”

Line 5. Cut a piece 18" to 20" long. To one end splice on open eye about 1
1/2" to 2" long. The other end will be tied to boom eye “A”

Clean and burn your splice ends as normal. Install the lazy jack on the mast
and boom as follows:

Line 5: Attach the loose end (I like to splice it) to boom eyestrap “A”

Line 1: Loose end is tied to the intermediate stay tangs on both sides of
the mast. Other end has a thimble with line 2 passing through it.

Line 2: This line has the thimble on one end and brass snap on the other.
Attach the brass snap to the eye splice on line 5. The other end has line 3
passing through it.

Line 3: The loose end is tied or spliced to eye strap “B” on the boom. The
other end has line 4 passing through it.

Line 4: One end is tied or spliced to boom eye “C”, the other end passes
through the cleat “D” with a knot on the end. This line is use to adjust the
lazy jacks

Note: do not splice any lines to the eyes on the boom until your are happy
with the lengths of the lazy jacks. Adjust so they can be removed as
mentioned below…then either tie, cut and burn… or … splice to the
boom eyes.

To use your lazy jacks: Loosen the main sheets so the end of the boom is
free. Tighten both sides equally at the boom cleat until the boom just lifts
off the boom gallows. Do this with the sails furled on the boom. To pull the
boom back down into the gallows use the main sheet. You will no longer need
a topping lift!!!

When the sails are up the lazy jack will become slack. If the sails rub hard
against one side of the lazy jacks for long periods loosen the lee side. If
the sails are flogging in light conditions tighten both sides. When reefing
do not turn up wind but let the sails drop (must pull them down with a down
haul) into the lazy jacks.

When you drop your sails they will be held within the lazy jacks and the
boom will be free to move the length of the main sheet adjustments. So pull
the main sheet in tight until the boom rests in the boomgallows then tie the
sails down (I use my reef outhaul lines for this…don’t need gaskets).

When you are ready to put on your sail covers or an awning. Disconnect the
brass spring hook attached to the eye splice on line #5. Walk this snap and
line #2 forward to the mast. At the mast reach up and grab the thimble at
the end of line #1 and hook the snap into this thimble. Now run your hands
down to gather all the lazy jacks (on one side at a time) together and pass
the lot around the nearest cleat on the mast. If none is available you may
have to install one on each side for this purpose. Most masts have cleats
there for downwind poles.

To install the lazy jacks, unclip from the upper thimble and walk line #2
back to the eye splice on line #5. and re-attach. This is not easy because
the line is tight. Remember that when your sails were dropped and the main
sheet was loose, the boom above or off the gallows. So the rope you use must
be 1/4" and nylon so it will stretch. If you find that you are too much of a
“weakling” (or your young child has to do it instead of you) loosen the lazy
jacks at the cleat.

----- Original Message -----
From: “Denis N Ripley” <dripley@shaw.ca >
To: <bcc@yahoogroups.com >
Sent: Saturday, January 11, 2003 12:19 PM
Subject: Re: [bcc] Lazy Jack chafe More info

Hi All,

All this talk about lazy jacks had piqued my curiosity. Does anyone have a
plan of Roger’s lazy jack set-up? If so, I would be interested in
obtaining
same.

Denis N Ripley
‘Bristol Cream’
----- Original Message -----
From: “The Edney’s” <bccodyssey@yahoo.com >
To: <bcc@yahoogroups.com >
Sent: Friday, January 10, 2003 6:15 PM
Subject: Re: [bcc] Lazy Jack chafe More info

Tom,
I made a set of Roger’s Lazy jacks at least 6
years ago. I sailed the boat without them for a year
or two and still remember how great it was the first
time I dropped the sail and it stayed on the boom. I
think at the time the total cost was about $40.
I made them with nylon thimbles. All but one of
these has since worn out. I meant to replace them,
but never got around to it. The spliced loops do
create a little resistence, but really not a big deal.
If the line finally cuts through (no sign yet) it
will probably just be time to make a new set.
I don’t have cuts in my sailcover, so I put them
away next to the mast each time I put the cover on.
Maybe it’s because I had nylon and now just spliced
line, but I had no problem areas on the mast when the
boat was trucked back from Mexico last year.
Commercially made lazy jacks were about $250 when
I made mine. Roger’s design has served me well and
their design reminds me of a giant web. They go up
everytime I sail. Another benefit is that they catch
and hold the center of my reefed sail so well that I
no longer use the set of reefing ties I had put on the
sail. Hope the nylon or spliced lopps solve any
problems you may have had.
Wayne


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Denis:

I have a drawing from Rodger that might clarify Steve’s fine
instructions. E-mail me direct and I will be happy to scan it and send it
as an attachment.

Best regards…Tom
1:19 AM 1/11/2003 -0700, you wrote:

Hi All,

All this talk about lazy jacks had piqued my curiosity. Does anyone have a
plan of Roger’s lazy jack set-up? If so, I would be interested in obtaining
same.

Tom Harrer
S/V Whitewings III

on 1/11/03 3:37 PM, Tom Harrer at whitewings@charter.net wrote:
Denis:

        I have a drawing from Rodger that might clarify Steve’s fine
instructions.  E-mail me direct and I will be happy to scan it and send it
as an attachment.

                                Best regards…Tom
1:19 AM 1/11/2003 -0700, you wrote:

Hi All,

All this talk about lazy jacks had piqued my curiosity. Does anyone have a
plan of Roger’s lazy jack set-up? If so, I would be interested in obtaining
same.

Tom Harrer
S/V Whitewings III

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Hi Tom,

If it’s not too much trouble, I’d very much like a diagram
of this lazy jack set-up. Thanks much for making it available.

Scott Young

sueandscott@rcn.com