2 Questions: Stern Anchors & Edson Portable Pumps

I’m working on a “Love It or Leave It” List… Dad is selling his house, so there goes my storage in the garage. So, everything either fits on the boat or it goes. I’ll probably find a small corner of some kind-friend’s garage at some point, but for now, I need to begin clearing things out, and get ready to liveaboard, which is happening May 1!

One large item that came with Elizabeth is an Edson Portable Pump, shown here at Jamestown:
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=51147&BASE

Do people consider this a necessity on our 28’ boats? I have 2 Edson pumps on board already, they are not portable; one is aft, factory installed I assume, the other forward, installed by the previous owner. This additional LARGE portable pump seems overkill. Do seasoned voyagers agree? Can I part with it? It’s VERY expensive!!

My other question is more general: Why are Danforth anchors the only choice I’ve ever seen for stern anchors. Is it because they stow well on the boomkin? I have a 25lb Danforth and a 15lb Danforth. I don’t really like Danforths, very cumbersome IMO, but I’d like to rig up a stern anchor at some point, and I’ve got the gear already. I assume 25lb would be the typical size back there. Anyone use something other then a Danforth? I like the idea of the Fortress, but have never used one.

Thanks in advance for any input on these topics.

What would you use to kedge off a rock or a sandbar ?

I have always kept a 12 lb Danforth with chain and rope rode, ready to deploy at the stern, but have never used it yet.

There were two times when a long rope rode at the stern was needed, though.

Someone made the point that the Fortress tend to float and not sink, if deployed in strong current, and that the flukes can and do bend more easily than steel flukes of a Danforth.

While diving around my CQR one time, I noticed it hadn’t set properly, so I picked it up and set it by hand, but was surprised that it only weighed in my hands about half as much as it did when lifting it around on deck.

L & L say that they use their stern Danforth for various reasons, most probably because they don’t have an engine, and use it in tight quarters around docks.

I too have the “gallon a stroke” Edson hand pump, but have never mounted it yet, was going to mount it mid-way up on the companion way ladder.

I would think this pump would be more important and usefull on a wooden hull, or if you were delivering an unfamiliar boat.

Douglas

Ben,
I installed an Edson pump in the cockpit, to replace the small Whale Gusher that Sam put on. It’s a great pump, although 3 is probably overkill on a BCC. A few years ago I also installed the biggest Johnson electric bilge pump that will fit in the bilge under the engine.

Shaula carries a Danforth 20 high tensile anchor, lashed to the port boom gallows and aft ss rail. It has gotten some use as a stern anchor, and is also what I take out when I need to kedge off a sand bank. I use about 30’ of 5/16" chain with it, along with about 200’ of 1/2" nylon (stowed in the lazarette). Our Aries windvane doesn’t allow the anchor roller on the end of the boomkin that L&L have. It’s a great idea for an engine-less cruiser to have a stern anchor at the ready! It takes me about 5 minutes to get mine all put together.

Dan

Regarding the stern anchor, Anhinga has a Fortress and I’m planning to rig it ready to drop in coastal cruising mode. I like the L & L solution with the anchor roller on the middle of the boomkin but this is not compatible with the Monitor windvane.

I?m considering storing the cable on the lazaretto and feed it through a chain pipe. Then install at the stern a deck fairlead or roller to lead the cable, leaving the anchor flukes hooked on the boomkin bobstay.

On passage, cable, chain and anchor will be stored inside the lazaretto. By the way, anyone uses the lazaretto lower V area to store the anchor cable?

Anyone has a better idea?

Ben, Regarding your pump. Your first concern is to stop water from entering the boat. After that your existing pumps will do the job. Sure, if you have the room, why not have lots of pumps. The problem is having enough people to operate the pumps. So have as many as you have crew…of course, at least one should be electric with a float switch. Think about this…

Regarding the Danforth anchor. You will only use a stern anchor in a direct line pull, you will not be swinging 360 degrees on this anchor. So you can use the Danforth, it really holds well in the straight line but I do not advise using it for your primary anchor. If you want my opinion on anchors, email me direct.

I totally disagree with leading any stern anchor through a hawse hole or any other hole unless it is led back out. Worse is to leave the excess anchor rope in the lazarette and lead the rope out through a deck pipe. I have had many bad experiences using stern anchors and believe that it is an anchor that should be able to be released from the boat in an instant. Please read page 207 in my book about why I feel this is so important.

I store my Danforth stern anchor on my boomkin when gunkholing but not passage making. I do not have it attached to the chain unless I feel there might be a need to use it. I keep the short length of chain and 200+ feet of rope in a sailbag in the lazarette. When I think I might use the stern anchor, I attach the chain to the anchor (swivel). After the stern anchor has been deployed, I stuff all the excess rope in the sailbag and hang it on the outside of my sternrail (pushpit). I DO NOT LEAD THE ROPE THROUGH ANY HOLES. If I need to get away in a hurry, I cast the rope off the cleat on my boomkin and throw the sailbag overboard. Oh, I do have a float with a snap that I can attached to the sailbag to retrieve it later. I would rather have to dive on the anchor later than take the chance of catching my prop on the anchor float.

Since you will only use your stern anchor for preventing your boat from swinging, it can be a smaller anchor with only about 20 feet of chain. If you only use this small anchor for stern anchoring, then you should have a heavier anchor you can use for emergencies like Kedging off, etc.

For me, the minimum anchors a boat should have is the primary anchor which can be used when the boat is swinging 360 degrees. A secondary anchor that has equal holding power as the primary. If you ever lose the primary in coral or rocks, this secondary anchor will become your primary. Then a smaller stern anchor.

On my own boat, I have my primary set ready to go on all chain. I have my secondary stored on the side of my boat, attached to chain and rope, ready to go. I have a third anchor that can replace the secondary or primary and enough chain and rope to do the same stored in the lazarette. Then I have my stern anchor which is smaller and easier to handle. I encourage you to put your efforts into good anchoring hardware. Your chances of losing a boat is not at sea but at anchor.

Roger

I agree with Roger’s point that you should be able to drop your stern anchor line quickly. I suspect that we are more timid about anchoring where a stern anchor is useful and where the ability for quick get-away is a very good idea. We have used the Davis rocker stoppers fairly often in rolly anchorages. Feeding the line through the deck to the lazarette doesn’t seem worth it for me. It doesn’t take long to grab 200’ of coiled line out of the lazarette.

Shaula’s primary anchor is a 35 lb CQR with 235’ of 5/16" BBB chain. We keep another 35 lb CQR in the forepeak bilge, just in case. The 20 lb HT Danforth is a good stern and kedge anchor, but should not to be trusted to reset if the direction of pull changes much. Roger is a bit better prepared for Murphy than we are.

Ben,on the extra Edson pump, are your 2 installed pumps the bronze, or the aluminum models? My installed Al pump had a lot of corrosion inside the body and required a new body after about 10 yrs. Which reminds me, I should pull it apart and check it before this coming summer!

Dan

Roger,
it makes sense to me the sailbag in and out of the lazaretto on passage making or gunkholing. Thanks for your clear description.

One question: you have a cleat on the boomkin to cast the cable, but how do you lead the rope if you need to use one of the winches? Do you have a roller or any fairlead?

All,

While we’re on the subject of anchoring:

What are the different methods used to attach your primary anchor rode to your boat so that it can be released quickly and safely? I just purchased 300’ of 5/16" HT chain to replace my rope/chain rode. I am thinking of tying a nylon pendant around the sampson posts in the chain locker and attaching a quick release to the end of this, to which I can attach the chain. This way, if I have to drop my rode, I’ll need only snap a float to the chain and pull the quick release.

Is there a better way to do this?

Also, I know this has been covered, but what are some successful methods used for marking rode length? Webbing, zip ties, paint - more ideas?

As for the stern anchor, I am replacing my boomkin with an outboard mounted stainless (Westsail 32), and will have a roller welded to the underside. I am considering using one of the self-deploying rolls of webbing rode. Does anyone have experience with this.

I need to pick Roger’s book up…the quotes I’ve seen are great.

Thank you for your help!
Aaron N.

All,

While we’re on the subject of anchoring:

What are the different methods used to attach your primary anchor rode to your boat so that it can be released quickly and safely? I just purchased 300’ of 5/16" HT chain to replace my rope/chain rode. I am thinking of tying a nylon pendant around the sampson posts in the chain locker and attaching a quick release to the end of this, to which I can attach the chain. This way, if I have to drop my rode, I’ll need only snap a float to the chain and pull the quick release. Is there a better way to do this?

Also, I know this has been covered, but what are some successful methods used for marking rode length? Webbing, zip ties, paint - more ideas?

As for the stern anchor, I am replacing my boomkin with an outboard mounted stainless veersion (Westsail 32), and will have a roller welded to the underside. I am considering using one of the self-deploying rolls of webbing rode. Does anyone have experience with these?

I need to pick Roger’s book up…the quotes I’ve seen are great.

Thank you for your help!
Aaron N.

I had a roll of nylon webbing on my Nor’sea, very nice to stow, neat etc, however I never did use it, so cant comment on it’s durability or usage, but I was thinking the same thing with this discussion of stern anchors.

Regarding the primary anchor for quick release. You are right, you need some kind of line attached to the end of the chain. When you get my book read about what happened to me in Lumut, Malaysia on page 207+. A webbing or small rope that will work. You will have to have somewhere below decks to attach this rope (1/4 to 3/8). This can be on the bitts or a eyebolt bolted through the mast bulkhead. This rope must be long enough to reach the windlass. I am not a big fan of slip knots because they may slip or they may not slip. I kept a sharp dive knife at the mast when anchoring in questionable areas. The problem I had in my story was that I had the engine in reverse as the chain ran out and had to run forward to cut the rope. This can be a problem for a single hander

I also kept a finder attached to a snap hook and 50 feet of line that I could attach to the chain quickly. If you are in a questionable anchorage, you could attach the float to the chain after setting your anchor and leaving the float on deck.

On another note. If you have your snubber attached to the bitts with a tied loop, you many not be able to release it if it is under a load. It is best to wrap the snubber around the bitts so it can be easily cast off if necessary.

Regarding the stern anchor. On top of the boomkin plates I have a chock bolted into this plate on either side of the backstay tang. This chock is open but has a removable pin to prevent the rope from slipping out when the boat pitches. Near the taffrail I have a large bronze cleat through bolted into the boomkin on both sides. I realize that this will raise eyebrows. However, remember that the load is at the boomkin plates which is supported by the backstay for loads. The pull on the cleat is horizontal. Aron asked what if a winch is needed. I pass the anchor rope under the taffrail to the opposite sheet winch. This leads up to the winch so you cannot get an override. When I do this I use a loop. I pass the line under the taffrail, to the winch and back under the taffrail to the sailbag. When I winch in the stern anchor, I let the rope pile in the footwell until the anchor is up.

Regarding Dan’s comment of storing the stern anchor line in a sailbag in the lazarette, I agree, no reason not to. However, I suggest you do not lead it through a deck pipe. The reason for this is that if you have to release the stern anchor you will have to pull each foot out of the lazarette through this deck pipe and pray to God that you do not get a tangled knot…

Many sailors do not know how to anchor properly. How many boats are lost while at anchor??? Most all of them. I have seen too many boats lost from sailors who thought they anchored correctly. The cause can be the type of anchor used when the boat swings 360+ degrees catching their own anchor on their own chain or rope. It might be another boat anchored too close who trips your anchor. The most common reason is inadequate scope. Those of you who like HT Chain remember that the chain is only as strong as the shackle you can use to pass through the link. The objective of chain is to have the weight for a horizontal pull. When you reduce the weight by using a lighter anchor and smaller chain, you have reduced your grab and security.

Roger

I would like to add to Roger’s discussion about chain weight. When I worked aboard a 240 ft catamaran with four decks and four 1,200 hp engines, we anchored once. The 3rd mate oversaw the anchoring operation. He told me the difference between a ship anchoring and a boat is the ship’s chain holds the ship, whereas, the anchor holds a boat. We dropped the anchor in New York’s Upper Bay on a calm night in about 50 ft of water. We let out 4 or 5 shots of chain (1 shot = 90 ft) and never moved the whole night. We were in a designated anchor and pulled watches through the night.

The lesson I learned was heavy chain is a good thing and do not let the chain get away from you. It’s very scary when a ships chain starts “jumping around” on deck. We got it under control but only after watching fireworks as metal rubbed against metal. The cause of the problem was a poorly maintained cat head. We had taken over the ship for a bank and fired the former crew and officers.

IDUNA carries 125 ft of 3/8" hi-test chain connected to 150 ft of 3/4" three-strand nylon rode. Once anchored we use a snubber to absorb shock loads. Our anchor is a 35 lb CQR and we have never dragged when squall lines moved over us packing 60 knots of wind. Heavy Chain and lots of it are a good thing.

IDUNA