ABI bronze portholes

I want to replace the glass in my ABI bronze portholes. I see there are two possible sizes: 6" (which is actually 6-3/8" in diameter) and 7". I forgot to measure the glass when I was at my boat this weekend and won’t be able to do it until this weekend.

Does anyone know what size the Sam L. Morse Company used?

Dioscouri (#064)

Shaula, #59,1981, has ports made by Rostand–“Marine Hardware, Ecclesiastical Brasswares, and Railroad, Bus & Special Hardware”, located in Milford, Connecticut. Sam thought highly of them, and was disappointed when they closed down in the mid-80’s. I guess he went to ABI for ports after that, and I’m not sure if Dioscouri made it before the change.

Shaula’s ports have an outer flange of 7" diameter. The glass looks like it’s 7 3/8" diameter. You can check the pics to see if your ports look like these Rostand ports. If not, guess you’d better get some ABI measurements.

Since we didn’t get screens with the ports (don’t know if they were available), we did a jerry-rig that has worked well. The outer ring of a 7" plastic crochet hoop just fits in the outer flange of the port. I tied on some mosquito screen material, trimmed off the excess, and they have worked great. We tried no-see-um material, but it didn’t let in enough breeze. We’ve left the screens during passages, without any problems, so the closed port doesn’t leak. Pic below.
Dan Shaula


Hi Gary , BCC Calliste 072 , 1985 has bronze ports that have no markings on them , so I don’t know if they are ABI or not.

The glass in Calliste’s ports are 7 5/8" diameter plus or minus.

There is a large threaded ring that screws down onto the glass.

There are two annular groves machined into the spiggot part, and these are used for two ss wire rings one on the outside of the screen disc, one on the inside.

The adjustable hinge looks similar to Dan’s photo, but there seems to be a little difference in the dog down forks, and there are “bail” nuts instead of wing nuts.

Mike Anderson showed me the best seal, it comes from Perko, and has a “T” , shape.

Port Supply used to stock them, as 10’ lengths, you cut to fit.

I had to rebed all the port glass, used silicone , have had No leaks, phew !


I too am interested in looking into replacing the glass in my ABI ports . The glass I have is obviously doubled (maybe safety glass) as salt is beginning to work its way between the two layers around the edges. Are you using a local glass supplier who is simply cutting the circles?
BCC Odyssey

I forgot to mention that last summer in BC, I (but not Alice??) was bothered by no-see-um type insects that bit my ankles around sunset. They were able to get through the mosquito netting on our hatches and ports. I decided to try spraying the netting with Permethrin, and that ended the itchy ankles!

Permethrin is what they use on mosquito nets in malaria countries. It can be used on clothing, and lasts through washings, according to the label. REI sells Sawyer Permethrin Pump Spray, 24 oz for $15.50. Permethrin is extracted from the flowers of a daisy-type annual–we saw many fields of it, growing in Tasmania.

Thanks for the feedback from everyone. When I first looked at Dan’s pictures, I thought that my portholes might be the same as his (i.e., non-ABI). However, upon a closer look, I noted that there are some differences, as described by Douglas. Therefore, I am assuming (but am not certain) that mine are ABI portholes.

With respect to screens, I did acquire screens from ABI, which fit perfectly in the annular grooves described by Douglas (hence my thinking that they are ABI portholes). Over time, however, I noticed that the white plastic surround on the screens turned a distasteful brown color. I have since replaced those screens with bronze screens made by John Danicic of Schooner Bay Screens. He now has the template to make such screens for ABI portholes (or whatever portholes are installed on by BCC) - his website is www.johndanicic.com/screensofschoonerbayopen.htm.

With respect to the replacement glass, once I satisfy myself that the portholes are indeed ABI portholes, I plan to order replacement glass specifically for them. I’m aware that ABI is no longer in business, but I have found a few websites that claim they still have replacement parts in stock. Otherwise, I will have a local glass supplier cut new glass for them.


Has anyone fabricated a few aluminum discs, that are to be used, if the porthole glass breaks ?

It is on one of my “To Do” lists, somewhere .

I saw them being put into place, on one of the Pardey’s videos.

Certainly not a bad idea to have a couple onboard, just in case.

Thanks Dan for the tip about using Permethrin on the screens.


Hey all,

Just want to point out that Permethrin is extremely toxic to both cats and fish. Apparently cats like to lick some of the commercially available products that have scents in them and it’ll kill them in a few hours. So if you have a fluffy, make sure the screens are dry!

Also, don’t dump extra in the water.


It looks like the Perko “Portlight Weatherstripping”, available from several sources via the internet, is “open cell foam rubber”? Is this what you used? It seems like open cell foam wouldn’t be as good as solid rubber.

Our ports came from Rostand with solid rubber gaskets, and after 12 yrs,before we took off for the S. Pac., I replaced the gaskets. I found solid gasket rubber at a Seattle rubber supplier. They are now 16 yrs old and due to be replaced I guess, although they haven’t shown any leak problems. They do seem a bit hardened, compared to when they were new. The gasket material was rectangular, not “t-shaped”, as the Perko.
Dan Shaula BCC #59 1981

Hi Dan , my ports came with square solid rubber, gaskets. At eleven years old these solid rubber gaskets had hardened, cracked, and wouldn’t seal, anymore.

The Perko port gasket seals are a softer neoprene, squishable, type rubber, thus is probably open cell foam.

These Perko seals are glazed on the outer sides and thus encapsulate the open cells inside.

Mike Anderson found these seals for L & L , who then used them on their cockpit floor flush hatch. You may be able to contact L & L , by email, and ask them for a durability report on them.

Along with using a refergerater gasket on the scuttle hatch coaming, I also used these Perko gasket material, on the lower edge and sides of the scuttle hatch drop board.