I am looking for input into how best to manage the anchor. Firstly I note that the ABI manual windlass seems to be held in good regard, I have seen it set on top of the bowsprit and also to one side, I was be most appreciative of any advice re this. Secondly is the stowage of the anchor, I have seen some secured to the bowsprit using a special bracket, what does everyone else do? Obviously it has to be very secure and yet convenient. It is a new hull (126) I am working up, so all options are possible at this time.
Gosh Stewart, I will bet almost every BCC has a different set up, for reasons that each owner chose.
I don’t have access to the file, but I photographed as many anchoring set-ups as I could find, on BCC’s and other boats.
I ended up copying L & L’s set up on Taleisin, and with the exception that I use a Maxwell electric windless, the system has worked well on Calliste.
The Encylopedia by Steve Dashew, gave me some v good advice on it too.
That anchoring system is equivalent to a garage for my boat, so I was willing to afford, what an inexpensive garage might cost, for my budget.
Douglas, 072 Calliste
Stewart:
We spend most of our time at anchor rather than in marinas so easy and tidy was important for us. My boat (118) has a set of rollers on the sprit...was an option at the time. You should be able to see them in one of the White Wings pics. I don't know who built them for SM. My Delta stores nicely in the starboard roller. I have a thin,SS plate on the bottom side of the sprit to protect it.
I use a triple braid snubber run through a large block block at the end of the sprit (a Roger Olson technique) attached to the bottom wing of the cranse iron. One end of the snubber attaches to the chain rode with a rolling hitch on the starboard side. Then I feed out the snubber until about 2'are beyond the block. The bitter end cleats to my port bow cleat. I leave some sag in the rode to prevent any possible load on the windlass. Also capture the chain in a chain stopper located right behind the stock bow roller......confused yet? I then have two layers of safety before an unexpected, lee blow rips the windlass out of my deck and ruins my whole day.
The snubber stows one end on each samson post when not in use. Boat seems to ride better with the rode pulling at the end of the sprit. You also avoid having the rode saw on the bob stay if your boat sails at anchor. Which it will do even if you have the second set of rollers on the sprit.
I chose a Muir, VR1000 vertical windlass with capstan. Seemed to be a better built piece than the Maxwell SM installed at that time. Dick and Tommy agreed. If I am alone, the power windlass gets everything aboard much quicker than a manual. On calm mornings, I usually end up hand cranking the rode in simply because it is so easy. Leaving in any kind of a blow makes the power windlass invaluable. Muir left the chrome off for me (an upcharge naturally) so I have a nice bronze windlass.
TomTom,
Any photos of your windlass deck position.
Thanks
David
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-bccforum@coledata.com [mailto:owner-bccforum@coledata.com] On
Behalf Of BCC Forums
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 9:49 AM
To: bccforum@samlmorse.com
Subject: [BCC Forum Post] tharrer: Re: Achor handling and stowage.
Author: tharrer
Username: tharrer
Subject: Re: Achor handling and stowage.
Forum: BCC Forum
Link: http://www.samlmorse.com/forum/read.php?5,6563,6566#msg-6566
Stewart:
We spend most of our time at anchor rather than in marinas so easy and
tidy was important for us. My boat (118) has a set of rollers on the
sprit…was an option at the time. You should be able to see them in one of
the White Wings pics. I don’t know who built them for SM. My Delta stores
nicely in the starboard roller. I have a thin,SS plate on the bottom side of
the sprit to protect it.
I use a triple braid snubber run through a large block block at the
end of the sprit (a Roger Olson technique) attached to the bottom wing of
the cranse iron. One end of the snubber attaches to the chain rode with a
rolling hitch on the starboard side. Then I feed out the snubber until
about 2’are beyond the block. The bitter end cleats to my port bow cleat. I
leave some sag in the rode to prevent any possible load on the windlass.
Also capture the chain in a chain stopper located right behind the stock bow
roller…confused yet? I then have two layers of safety before an
unexpected, lee blow rips the windlass out of my deck and ruins my whole
day.
The snubber stows one end on each samson post when not in use. Boat
seems to ride better with the rode pulling at the end of the sprit. You
also avoid having the rode saw on the bob stay if your boat sails at anchor.
Which it will do even if you have the second set of rollers on the sprit.
I chose a Muir, VR1000 vertical windlass with capstan. Seemed to be a
better built piece than the Maxwell SM installed at that time. Dick and
Tommy agreed. If I am alone, the power windlass gets everything aboard much
quicker than a manual. On calm mornings, I usually end up hand cranking the
rode in simply because it is so easy. Leaving in any kind of a blow makes
the power windlass invaluable. Muir left the chrome off for me (an upcharge
naturally) so I have a nice bronze windlass.
TomDavid:
This is a really good picture of me and marginally useless regards the windlass position. If you need more, I'll be getting ready to launch all this week and could take more detailed photos. Let me know whitewings@charter.net.
In the attached, the windlass is right between my feet. About 1' aft of the samson post and in line with the rollers on the starboard side of the sprit.David:
This is a really good picture of me and marginally useless regards the windlass position but...... If you need more, I'll be getting ready to launch all this week and could take more detailed photos. Let me know whitewings@charter.net.
In the attached, the windlass is right between my feet. About 1' aft of the samson post and in line with the rollers on the starboard side of the sprit.
