John & Robin
Could you please describe how you attach the anchor line to the bowsprit,
and exactly where out on the sprit you attach it. I know I need to do this,
presently I get so much chafe of the line on the bobstay when the wind
changes. Thanks so much for your input–Pat


This is how we set an anchor pendant aboard IDUNA. We have several loops (strops)?made from Dacron webbing. After?we set the anchor, we?attach a snatch block to either one or two strops?at the end of the bowsprit To accomplish this?task, ?I go out on the bowsprit and loop either one or two strops over the bowsprit just forward of the cranse iron?then attach the snatch block to the strop(s). A nylon three-strand pendant is threaded through the?snatch block. The bitter end is?lead?back to?the bow where it is?tied to the anchor chain ?with either a rolling hitch or a taught-line hitch.??Additional chain?is let out while letting the pendant run free. Once the attachment point of the pendant is beyond the end of the sprit, the running end of the pendant is made fast around the bitts. At this point in the operation, the chain can be made slack between the pendant and the bow by either letting out more chain or pulling in on the pendant. If the wind is blowing hard, I sometimes rig another pendant on the chain and lead this pendant over the rollers at the gammon iron to help take the strain off the first pendant.

If you do a search at the BCC forum?for either anchor pendant or John Churchill, I believe John posted a discussion about his method of rigging a pendant

Fair Winds,

S/V Iduna

Like most things, I copycatted the Pardeys. See “Capable Cruiser”
I put an 1/2" SS rod vertically thru my sprit, inboard of the cranse
iron with an eyenut on each end. Used a plate under the eye to keep it from sinking into the soft wood. I use the upper eye for the drifter tack and the end of my jackline. I have a block permanently mounted on the lower eye with a line thru it. One end has a SS chainhook, keep hooked to the whisker near the stem when underway.
The other end has an eye. I let out my chain, put the grab hook on it, haul it out to the block while letting slack in the chain. Let the chain go form a big loop. Inner end is made off to bits. Chafing strips on sprit protect varnish.


  1. Hook is not firmly attached to chain, never falls off in
    use, but can during retrieval.
  2. Eye at inner end cannot pass the block, to let out more chain in emergency would require cutting the line, then hook would fall off and be lost. Attachment using a rolling hitch would solve both problems.
  3. Snubber at end of bowsprit effectively increases swinging circle by 16’, occasionally a concern in tight anchorages. One solution to this is attaching
    snubber to bobstay chainplate, but this greatly inhibits access to it
    in emergency, so is unacceptable in my view.


Hi Pat and the BCC group.

I read with interest, what Rod wrote and agree with his basic method. I found it easier if a permanent block can be installed under the Cranse-Iron but the method remains the same. There are advantages and disadvantages to using the strop. An individual decision

Some BCC’s have two 1/2" holes in the bottom tang of the Cranse-Iron. The aft hole is for the bobstay and the forward hole is for the shackle to take a strong, swivel block. If there is not a second hole, I have drilled one. This will require drilling a small hole first then building up to the required size. If there isn’t enough room for a hole, I have seen BCC’s with a long shackle slipped over the bobstay clevis or turnbuckle but it must be as near to the Cranse-Iron as possible. I don’t like this method as well as the hole but it works.

After the swivel block is installed, a snubber line is run through the block and back to the bitts, as Rod mentioned. I use 3/8" three-strand nylon so it will stretch. If the line is too thick it defeats the purpose of it being a snubber.?The breaking strength of 3/8" nylon is about 4,400 pounds and the?breaking strength of 5/16 BBB chain is 7,600 pounds. You would want the snubber to break before the chain.

I attach the snubber to the chain using a rolling-hitch. I tried using a chain hook but found it kept slipping off if there was not a constant load pulling on it. After it is once deployed, the hold is great. The problem is that some tension must be on the snubber constantly while it is being deployed. I found that I did not have enough hands to do it in anything but calm?conditions. However, I know that some use it and do not have a problem. Perhaps someone has found an alternative???

My snubber line is about 50 feet long. This is really too long but if the wind comes up in the night I like to be able to let out more chain and snubber without bringing the chain?up to un-tie the knot. The longer the distance between the rolling-hitch on the chain and the point where it is tied to the bitts make for more stretch. Again, as Rod mentioned, leave a loop of chain hanging down in the water between the Gammon Iron rollers and the snubber line. This serves two purposes. First, if the snubber line breaks, the chain will take the load. Second, the chain loop must be long enough so when the snubber is taut there is still some slack in the chain. So as the boat pulls back on the snubber it has to lift the weight of this chain.?

Some say that the load on the end of the bowsprit is too much if there is a strong wind and heavy seas. Not really; first, the pull is mostly aft, not down because the chain is far out in front of the bow and the snubber is only about 20 to 30 feet out in front. Soon as the snubber is untied, the load is transferred to the bow roller or bowsprit roller. Second, if the load were directly down, the load would be transferred to the Cranse-Iron, to the headstay, to the backstay with compression on the mast, then?to the boomkin stay. I have used this method?for the 13 years I was cruising and still use it today. I have NEVER had a problem with chafe, or anything breaking and I have anchored in some rough conditions.

The only problem with this method is that the snubber line is exposed to the sun all the time. UV breaks down the nylon.?I replaced mine every two to?three years just in case. It never showed any damage after it was removed but I know it?was not as strong as it was originally.

Remember, this is only a suggestion and the method I use. I am sure there are other ideas out there that should also be considered. Eventually, you will find what works for you.

Roger Olson


You give me too much credit. I suspect, our anchor method is just a compilation?of techniques from other sailors. Sad to say, but our sea time is rather limited with the BCC. It?is time for us to “get out into the big tank.”

Fair Winds & Following Seas,