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For those of you out there that are using the Max-Prop on your vessels, I have a few questions.
How do you deal with anti-fouling on your max prop?
For those of you with the Yanmar 3GM30F on your BCC's and using the Max-Prop Classic 3 Blade.
What diameter, pitch and hub size are you using on your BCC's.
Steve Osborne
Crystal Swan II
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— In bcc@y…, “Steven Osborne” <steven.j.osborne@w…> wrote:
For those of you out there that are using the Max-Prop on your
vessels, I have a few questions.
How do you deal with anti-fouling on your max prop?
For those of you with the Yanmar 3GM30F on your BCC’s and using the
Max-Prop Classic 3 Blade.
What diameter, pitch and hub size are you using on your BCC’s.Steve Osborne
Crystal Swan II
shaft diameter determines hub size, a 1" shaft takes the smaller hub,
70 mm i think. i fitted a 16" diameter, do not know if 17" will fit,
but remember you need about 10% tip clearance to prevent vibration.
i am fairly happy with an 11" pitch as a good compromise.
for antifouling, i just keep it polished and plan on diving to scrape
it as my punishment if i fail to use the boat enough to keep the prop
clean. i have thought of antifouling, but am more than a little
paranoid about potential electrolysis eating my $$$ prop. also i
have never had much luck getting antifouling to stick to the prop,
especially at the tips. i have asked a number of people and nobody i
know has a good solution, although i would think there is something
for the big sportfishermen and fast yachts.
anyone know any secrets about antifouling a prop?
john churchill
anyone know any secrets about antifouling a prop?
john churchill
I’ve never used a Max-prop, but I’ve always
anti-fouled my props. On motor boats and sail boats,
including BCC116.
Two secrets: prime and age.
Let’s take them in reverse order. A new prop is v
smooth and has wax residue from the polishing process.
And older prop has also lost small chunks of metal, eg
a few hundred atoms at a time, that have been leached
away. So the surface is rough and a primer coat sticks
well.
So the second year of antifouling is always more
effective than the first year.
With BCC116’s brand new 3-blade (fixed) prop I first
put on a coat of an epoxy primer that was close to
hand. Then I brushed on two or three coats of
International Micron Extra. It’s still there.
On previous boats and previous props, I’ve used a zinc
chromate primer (yes, I know, the stuff that used as a
sealing primer between an aluminum hull and copper
anti-fouling. It may not be the intended use, but it
works).
The antifouling always erodes fast at the leading
edges of the blades. But the screw remains relatively
clean and maintains its bite on the water.
And worked on a previous motor boat that spun its prop
a lot faster than my Yanmar does.
Cheers
Bil
BCC 116 ZYGOTE
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