Blisters continued

We just spent the last two days In Svendsen’s Marine Yard wet
sanding the bottom with 25 grit green disks, a random orbit air
sander and a water hose.

In the process of discovery, we found bottom paint over,faring
compound, epoxy barrier coat, yellowed epoxy and finally glass mat.
We were instructed to try Interlux Interstrip (pinoff) to take the
paint off (20 minutes to 2 hours wait time recommended on the can)
at $26 per quart, temperaure has a large effect on removal time (60
deg), we did manage to loosten the paint in 1 hour and scraped a
test patch off with a carbide scraper, did not affect the epoxy
barrier coat.

We later tired a test patch of Jesco paint and epoxy remover,
dangerous stuff concerning fiberglass hull, possibility of damaging
the fiberglass they say. We applied it over the bottom paint, paint
started running down the hull in as little as 10 minutes, still no
affect on softening the epoxy barrier coat. We stopped testing for
fear of penetrating the beyond the epoxy barrier coat and attacking
the fiberglass.

For removing the paint only, we found a sharp carbide blade in a
Sandvik scraper with only modest pressure out performed the chemical
strippers, non-toxic, smooth cut and much easier on the wallet.

Best course of action, most painfull, if not tiring, seemed to be 25
grit green disks on the random orbit sander, with water to wash away
the sludge left behind while sanding. The paint came off quickly,
barrier coat took more effort to slowly grind away down to bare
fiberglass.

We sanded down both sides of the hull from the bow back 6 feet, the
barrier coat blister were 1/4" in size and tightly spaced on both
sides, failure probably due to inadiquate hull drying time prior to
application. We found laminate blister under the matt cloth, quarter
sized and widely spaced on the port side; 2" sized blister under the
matt closely spaced on the starboard side, all seem to be shallow at
present limited to the matt.

The current plan is to have Svendsen’s do a peel down to the first
layer of cloth and see what this reveals, we are hopeful from
present visual evidence that only the mat is affected. Planning on
peeling this Thursday or Friday.

Research and conversations with hull builders suggest a times there
is no rime or reason for blisters in some boats, two boats built at
the same time from the same materials, one could develope blister
and the other did not, who knows.

I don’t think the developement of blisters in our boat in anyway
negatively reflects on the BCC as a whole, I’m quite sure from a
structural strength standpoint, she could shed a few layers of glass
and still survive a hurricane, a sound beaching and still come out
of it intact. It’s actually more of a cosmetic issue at this stage.

In any event, I think it is important to discuss what we find, what
products work an to what degree, costs etc, simply for the sake of
education of the group.

The plan thus far is to peel, dry to 5% moisture content, add two
layers of glass with West Epoxy, fare, epoxy barrier coat, bottom
paint and get back to sailing.

Best wishes to all.

Marty Chin, BCC Shamrock.

I noticed you mentioned an epoxy barrier coat. I thought this was
supposed to insulate against blisters? I have an epoxy barrier
coat on Godspeed. Should I be looking for blisters as well? Thanks,

Mark Gearhart
s/v Godspeed

— In bcc@yahoogroups.com , “marty_chin” <marty_chin@y…> wrote:

We just spent the last two days In Svendsen’s Marine Yard wet
sanding the bottom with 25 grit green disks, a random orbit air
sander and a water hose.

In the process of discovery, we found bottom paint over,faring
compound, epoxy barrier coat, yellowed epoxy and finally glass
mat.
We were instructed to try Interlux Interstrip (pinoff) to take the
paint off (20 minutes to 2 hours wait time recommended on the can)
at $26 per quart, temperaure has a large effect on removal time
(60
deg), we did manage to loosten the paint in 1 hour and scraped a
test patch off with a carbide scraper, did not affect the epoxy
barrier coat.

We later tired a test patch of Jesco paint and epoxy remover,
dangerous stuff concerning fiberglass hull, possibility of
damaging
the fiberglass they say. We applied it over the bottom paint,
paint
started running down the hull in as little as 10 minutes, still no
affect on softening the epoxy barrier coat. We stopped testing for
fear of penetrating the beyond the epoxy barrier coat and
attacking
the fiberglass.

For removing the paint only, we found a sharp carbide blade in a
Sandvik scraper with only modest pressure out performed the
chemical
strippers, non-toxic, smooth cut and much easier on the wallet.

Best course of action, most painfull, if not tiring, seemed to be
25
grit green disks on the random orbit sander, with water to wash
away
the sludge left behind while sanding. The paint came off quickly,
barrier coat took more effort to slowly grind away down to bare
fiberglass.

We sanded down both sides of the hull from the bow back 6 feet,
the
barrier coat blister were 1/4" in size and tightly spaced on both
sides, failure probably due to inadiquate hull drying time prior
to
application. We found laminate blister under the matt cloth,
quarter
sized and widely spaced on the port side; 2" sized blister under
the
matt closely spaced on the starboard side, all seem to be shallow
at
present limited to the matt.

The current plan is to have Svendsen’s do a peel down to the first
layer of cloth and see what this reveals, we are hopeful from
present visual evidence that only the mat is affected. Planning on
peeling this Thursday or Friday.

Research and conversations with hull builders suggest a times
there
is no rime or reason for blisters in some boats, two boats built
at
the same time from the same materials, one could develope blister
and the other did not, who knows.

I don’t think the developement of blisters in our boat in anyway
negatively reflects on the BCC as a whole, I’m quite sure from a
structural strength standpoint, she could shed a few layers of
glass
and still survive a hurricane, a sound beaching and still come out
of it intact. It’s actually more of a cosmetic issue at this stage.

In any event, I think it is important to discuss what we find,
what
products work an to what degree, costs etc, simply for the sake of
education of the group.

The plan thus far is to peel, dry to 5% moisture content, add two
layers of glass with West Epoxy, fare, epoxy barrier coat, bottom
paint and get back to sailing.

Best wishes to all.

Marty Chin, BCC Shamrock.

Marty

Any thought to using Vinylester resin instead of epoxy for your barrier
coat?

CoREZYN VE resin is the hot ticket these days. (and not as temperature
sensitive)

A recent study:
The vinyl ester used in the low HAP series is part of the same resin
formula evaluated in the Interplastic Corporation 15-year immersion
study. Laboratory analysis concluded that after 15 years of immersion
in water at ambient temperatures, laminate panels constructed with 100%
CoREZYN vinyl ester resin or a vinyl ester skin coat showed no signs of
blistering. The CoREZYN vinyl ester resin created a barrier impervious
to water and therefore prevented osmotic blistering.

Fair winds
Bob

marty_chin wrote:

We just spent the last two days In Svendsen’s Marine Yard wet
sanding the bottom with 25 grit green disks, a random orbit air
sander and a water hose.

In the process of discovery, we found bottom paint over,faring
compound, epoxy barrier coat, yellowed epoxy and finally glass mat.
We were instructed to try Interlux Interstrip (pinoff) to take the
paint off (20 minutes to 2 hours wait time recommended on the can)
at $26 per quart, temperaure has a large effect on removal time (60
deg), we did manage to loosten the paint in 1 hour and scraped a
test patch off with a carbide scraper, did not affect the epoxy
barrier coat.

We later tired a test patch of Jesco paint and epoxy remover,
dangerous stuff concerning fiberglass hull, possibility of damaging
the fiberglass they say. We applied it over the bottom paint, paint
started running down the hull in as little as 10 minutes, still no
affect on softening the epoxy barrier coat. We stopped testing for
fear of penetrating the beyond the epoxy barrier coat and attacking
the fiberglass.

For removing the paint only, we found a sharp carbide blade in a
Sandvik scraper with only modest pressure out performed the chemical
strippers, non-toxic, smooth cut and much easier on the wallet.

Best course of action, most painfull, if not tiring, seemed to be 25
grit green disks on the random orbit sander, with water to wash away
the sludge left behind while sanding. The paint came off quickly,
barrier coat took more effort to slowly grind away down to bare
fiberglass.

We sanded down both sides of the hull from the bow back 6 feet, the
barrier coat blister were 1/4" in size and tightly spaced on both
sides, failure probably due to inadiquate hull drying time prior to
application. We found laminate blister under the matt cloth, quarter
sized and widely spaced on the port side; 2" sized blister under the
matt closely spaced on the starboard side, all seem to be shallow at
present limited to the matt.

The current plan is to have Svendsen’s do a peel down to the first
layer of cloth and see what this reveals, we are hopeful from
present visual evidence that only the mat is affected. Planning on
peeling this Thursday or Friday.

Research and conversations with hull builders suggest a times there
is no rime or reason for blisters in some boats, two boats built at
the same time from the same materials, one could develope blister
and the other did not, who knows.

I don’t think the developement of blisters in our boat in anyway
negatively reflects on the BCC as a whole, I’m quite sure from a
structural strength standpoint, she could shed a few layers of glass
and still survive a hurricane, a sound beaching and still come out
of it intact. It’s actually more of a cosmetic issue at this stage.

In any event, I think it is important to discuss what we find, what
products work an to what degree, costs etc, simply for the sake of
education of the group.

The plan thus far is to peel, dry to 5% moisture content, add two
layers of glass with West Epoxy, fare, epoxy barrier coat, bottom
paint and get back to sailing.

Best wishes to all.

Marty Chin, BCC Shamrock.

BRISTOL CHANNEL CUTTER OWNERS ASSOCIATION
Mail List Home: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bcc
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Frequently the epoxy coat becomes the barrier that traps the inchoate
moisture and allows it to percolate. Many differing opinions abound on
the efficacy of epoxy. Some say vinylester is a better barrier coat.
Normally the once repaired laminate is spared from structural problems
and the damage is limited to the layer immediately following the epoxy.
The blister issue is very complicated and other than using Isothalic
resins or vinylester resins for skin coats or the first few layers
coupled with careful layups without voids and done with powder bound
mats there are no guarantees.

I speced all vinylester resin for Cyrano but that only lessens the
likelihood of blistering it doesn’t eliminate it
Jim
On Jan 13, 2005, at 8:46 AM, mrgearha@yahoo.com wrote:

I noticed you mentioned an epoxy barrier coat. I thought this was
supposed to insulate against blisters? I have an epoxy barrier
coat on Godspeed. Should I be looking for blisters as well? Thanks,

Mark Gearhart
s/v Godspeed

— In bcc@yahoogroups.com , “marty_chin” <marty_chin@y…> wrote:

We just spent the last two days In Svendsen’s Marine Yard wet
sanding the bottom with 25 grit green disks, a random orbit air
sander and a water hose.

In the process of discovery, we found bottom paint over,faring
compound, epoxy barrier coat, yellowed epoxy and finally glass
mat.
We were instructed to try Interlux Interstrip (pinoff) to take the
paint off (20 minutes to 2 hours wait time recommended on the can)
at $26 per quart, temperaure has a large effect on removal time
(60
deg), we did manage to loosten the paint in 1 hour and scraped a
test patch off with a carbide scraper, did not affect the epoxy
barrier coat.

We later tired a test patch of Jesco paint and epoxy remover,
dangerous stuff concerning fiberglass hull, possibility of
damaging
the fiberglass they say. We applied it over the bottom paint,
paint
started running down the hull in as little as 10 minutes, still no
affect on softening the epoxy barrier coat. We stopped testing for
fear of penetrating the beyond the epoxy barrier coat and
attacking
the fiberglass.

For removing the paint only, we found a sharp carbide blade in a
Sandvik scraper with only modest pressure out performed the
chemical
strippers, non-toxic, smooth cut and much easier on the wallet.

Best course of action, most painfull, if not tiring, seemed to be
25
grit green disks on the random orbit sander, with water to wash
away
the sludge left behind while sanding. The paint came off quickly,
barrier coat took more effort to slowly grind away down to bare
fiberglass.

We sanded down both sides of the hull from the bow back 6 feet,
the
barrier coat blister were 1/4" in size and tightly spaced on both
sides, failure probably due to inadiquate hull drying time prior
to
application. We found laminate blister under the matt cloth,
quarter
sized and widely spaced on the port side; 2" sized blister under
the
matt closely spaced on the starboard side, all seem to be shallow
at
present limited to the matt.

The current plan is to have Svendsen’s do a peel down to the first
layer of cloth and see what this reveals, we are hopeful from
present visual evidence that only the mat is affected. Planning on
peeling this Thursday or Friday.

Research and conversations with hull builders suggest a times
there
is no rime or reason for blisters in some boats, two boats built
at
the same time from the same materials, one could develope blister
and the other did not, who knows.

I don’t think the developement of blisters in our boat in anyway
negatively reflects on the BCC as a whole, I’m quite sure from a
structural strength standpoint, she could shed a few layers of
glass
and still survive a hurricane, a sound beaching and still come out
of it intact. It’s actually more of a cosmetic issue at this stage.

In any event, I think it is important to discuss what we find,
what
products work an to what degree, costs etc, simply for the sake of
education of the group.

The plan thus far is to peel, dry to 5% moisture content, add two
layers of glass with West Epoxy, fare, epoxy barrier coat, bottom
paint and get back to sailing.

Best wishes to all.

Marty Chin, BCC Shamrock.

BRISTOL CHANNEL CUTTER OWNERS ASSOCIATION
Mail List Home: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bcc
BCC Owners Home: http://www.geocities.com/bccowners
Post message: mailto:bcc@yahoogroups.com
Subscribe: mailto:bcc-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
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Jim

You are of course correct. Thats why all my boats are Vinylester.

On the Nor’Sea’s and Montgomery sailboats with the Vinylester resins
NO blisters have occurred. (some as old as 20 years in the water full
time)

Vinylester costs about 70% more per drum but the added cost (about
$1100 for three laminations on the Nor’Sea) is well worth the money.

On any boat it is sound advice to specify Vinylester Resin to prevent
future
problems. ( I saw your hull after lay up; didn’t you have some KEVLAR
installed as well?)

Probably the strongest hull around.

Fair winds
Bob

Jim Hiller wrote:

Frequently the epoxy coat becomes the barrier that traps the inchoate moisture and allows it to percolate. Many differing opinions abound on the efficacy of epoxy. Some say vinylester is a better barrier coat.

Normally the once repaired laminate is spared from structural problems
and the damage is limited to the layer immediately following the epoxy.

The blister issue is very complicated and other than using Isothalic
resins or vinylester resins for skin coats or the first few layers
coupled with careful layups without voids and done with powder bound
mats there are no guarantees.

I speced all vinylester resin for Cyrano but that only lessens the
likelihood of blistering it doesn’t eliminate it

Jim

On Jan 13, 2005, at 8:46 AM, mrgearha@yahoo.com wrote:

I noticed you mentioned an epoxy barrier coat. I thought this was

supposed to insulate against blisters? I have an epoxy barrier

coat on Godspeed. Should I be looking for blisters as well? Thanks,

Mark Gearhart

s/v Godspeed

— In bcc@yahoogroups.com , “marty_chin” <marty_chin@y…> wrote:

We just spent the last two days In Svendsen's Marine Yard wet sanding the bottom with 25 grit green disks, a random orbit air sander and a water hose.

In the process of discovery, we found bottom paint over,faring
compound, epoxy barrier coat, yellowed epoxy and finally glass

mat.
We were instructed to try Interlux Interstrip (pinoff) to take the paint off (20 minutes to 2 hours wait time recommended on the can) at $26 per quart, temperaure has a large effect on removal time
(60
deg), we did manage to loosten the paint in 1 hour and scraped a test patch off with a carbide scraper, did not affect the epoxy barrier coat.

We later tired a test patch of Jesco paint and epoxy remover,
dangerous stuff concerning fiberglass hull, possibility of

damaging
the fiberglass they say. We applied it over the bottom paint,
paint
started running down the hull in as little as 10 minutes, still no affect on softening the epoxy barrier coat. We stopped testing for fear of penetrating the beyond the epoxy barrier coat and
attacking
the fiberglass.

For removing the paint only, we found a sharp carbide blade in a
Sandvik scraper with only modest pressure out performed the

chemical
strippers, non-toxic, smooth cut and much easier on the wallet.

Best course of action, most painfull, if not tiring, seemed to be

25
grit green disks on the random orbit sander, with water to wash
away
the sludge left behind while sanding. The paint came off quickly, barrier coat took more effort to slowly grind away down to bare fiberglass.

We sanded down both sides of the hull from the bow back 6 feet,

the
barrier coat blister were 1/4" in size and tightly spaced on both sides, failure probably due to inadiquate hull drying time prior
to
application. We found laminate blister under the matt cloth,
quarter
sized and widely spaced on the port side; 2" sized blister under
the
matt closely spaced on the starboard side, all seem to be shallow
at
present limited to the matt.

The current plan is to have Svendsen’s do a peel down to the first
layer of cloth and see what this reveals, we are hopeful from
present visual evidence that only the mat is affected. Planning on
peeling this Thursday or Friday.

Research and conversations with hull builders suggest a times

there
is no rime or reason for blisters in some boats, two boats built
at
the same time from the same materials, one could develope blister and the other did not, who knows.

I don’t think the developement of blisters in our boat in anyway
negatively reflects on the BCC as a whole, I’m quite sure from a
structural strength standpoint, she could shed a few layers of

glass
and still survive a hurricane, a sound beaching and still come out of it intact. It's actually more of a cosmetic issue at this stage.

In any event, I think it is important to discuss what we find,

what
products work an to what degree, costs etc, simply for the sake of education of the group.

The plan thus far is to peel, dry to 5% moisture content, add two
layers of glass with West Epoxy, fare, epoxy barrier coat, bottom
paint and get back to sailing.

Best wishes to all.

Marty Chin, BCC Shamrock.

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http://www.hillersmarkets.com/
As the former owner of Dilkara, hull number 14, I was absolutely flabbergasted and dismayed when on one particular hauling after about five continuous years in the water to find my beautiful boat covered with hundreds, if not thousands, of tiny blisters.  This was back in the eighties and blisters were still a fairly shocking phenomen other than the ill fated Valiants of those days.  Before Dilkara was ever launched she was coated with several layers of epoxy so my belief is certainly that the moisture was already between the hull and gel coat.  Once when hauling the pressure washing removed literally sheets of bottom paint down to this incredibly slick coat of epoxy.  There were absolutely no blisters evident at that time.  When I found the blisters I stripped the hull and ground out every single blister that I could find until there was absolutely no moisture to be found.  I waited several days and if any moisture had appeared ground out more.  My beloved Dilkara looked as if she had the worst case of measles ever.  I then filled every single hole with some sort of epoxy, I can't remember exactly what, and tried to fair them as best as I could.  By this time I was so exhausted that the finished product was somewhat lumpy but I thought, what the hell, nobody is going to see it, slapped some bottom paint on and headed for Venezuela.  After another two or three years I spotted a few more small blisters but quit worrying about them.  I don't know how Dilkara fared after I sold her but that hull was so thick that I figured it would be years before there was any really serious problem.  When I would haul every year to paint the bottom I sort had a fondness for every one of those little lumps that I had helped create.  I always intended to do a proper job later but somehow ran out of time.  Too busy sailing and having a good time.  Incidentally, I used only 14 gallons of fuel between the Bahamas and Venezuela.
Ray Walton
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2005 5:46 AM
Subject: [bcc] Re: Blisters continued


I noticed you mentioned an epoxy barrier coat. I thought this was
supposed to insulate against blisters? I have an epoxy barrier
coat on Godspeed. Should I be looking for blisters as well? Thanks,

Mark Gearhart
s/v Godspeed

--- In bcc@yahoogroups.com , "marty_chin" <marty_chin@y ...> wrote:
>
> We just spent the last two days In Svendsen's Marine Yard wet
> sanding the bottom with 25 grit green disks, a random orbit air
> sander and a water hose.
>
> In the process of discovery, we found bottom paint over,faring
> compound, epoxy barrier coat, yellowed epoxy and finally glass
mat.
> We were instructed to try Interlux Interstrip (pinoff) to take the
> paint off (20 minutes to 2 hours wait time recommended on the can)
> at $26 per quart, temperaure has a large effect on removal time
(60
> deg), we did manage to loosten the paint in 1 hour and scraped a
> test patch off with a carbide scraper, did not affect the epoxy
> barrier coat.
>
> We later tired a test patch of Jesco paint and epoxy remover,
> dangerous stuff concerning fiberglass hull, possibility of
damaging
> the fiberglass they say. We applied it over the bottom paint,
paint
> started running down the hull in as little as 10 minutes, still no
> affect on softening the epoxy barrier coat. We stopped testing for
> fear of penetrating the beyond the epoxy barrier coat and
attacking
> the fiberglass.
>
> For removing the paint only, we found a sharp carbide blade in a
> Sandvik scraper with only modest pressure out performed the
chemical
> strippers, non-toxic, smooth cut and much easier on the wallet.
>
> Best course of action, most painfull, if not tiring, seemed to be
25
> grit green disks on the random orbit sander, with water to wash
away
> the sludge left behind while sanding. The paint came off quickly,
> barrier coat took more effort to slowly grind away down to bare
> fiberglass.
>
> We sanded down both sides of the hull from the bow back 6 feet,
the
> barrier coat blister were 1/4" in size and tightly spaced on both
> sides, failure probably due to inadiquate hull drying time prior
to
> application. We found laminate blister under the matt cloth,
quarter
> sized and widely spaced on the port side; 2" sized blister under
the
> matt closely spaced on the starboard side, all seem to be shallow
at
> present limited to the matt.
>
> The current plan is to have Svendsen's do a peel down to the first
> layer of cloth and see what this reveals, we are hopeful from
> present visual evidence that only the mat is affected. Planning on
> peeling this Thursday or Friday.
>
> Research and conversations with hull builders suggest a times
there
> is no rime or reason for blisters in some boats, two boats built
at
> the same time from the same materials, one could develope blister
> and the other did not, who knows.
>
> I don't think the developement of blisters in our boat in anyway
> negatively reflects on the BCC as a whole, I'm quite sure from a
> structural strength standpoint, she could shed a few layers of
glass
> and still survive a hurricane, a sound beaching and still come out
> of it intact. It's actually more of a cosmetic issue at this stage.
>
> In any event, I think it is important to discuss what we find,
what
> products work an to what degree, costs etc, simply for the sake of
> education of the group.
>
> The plan thus far is to peel, dry to 5% moisture content, add two
> layers of glass with West Epoxy, fare, epoxy barrier coat, bottom
> paint and get back to sailing.
>
> Best wishes to all.
>
> Marty Chin, BCC Shamrock.





Yes, I had Ray Richards design a new BCC layup that
used all vinylester resin and added 8 layers of kevlar
in the bow, down the center and in areas where ice
abrasion might be possible.

He used ice class standards because of my desire to
sail to Spitzbergen at Lat 80n.
We also added a watertight bulkhead at the bow. Also
took a bit of weight and balance work to keep her
floating on her lines. Worked out fine though.

LPS did go from 130 deg to 124 deg dry though. Wet it
was about 131 deg vs 134 deg standard.
Jim
— Bob <bobeeg@earthlink.net > wrote:

Jim

You are of course correct. Thats why all my boats
are Vinylester.

On the Nor’Sea’s and Montgomery sailboats with the
Vinylester resins
NO blisters have occurred. (some as old as 20 years
in the water full time)

Vinylester costs about 70% more per drum but the
added cost (about
$1100 for three laminations on the Nor’Sea) is well
worth the money.

On any boat it is sound advice to specify Vinylester
Resin to prevent future
problems. ( I saw your hull after lay up; didn’t you
have some KEVLAR
installed as well?)

Probably the strongest hull around.

Fair winds
Bob

Jim Hiller wrote:

Frequently the epoxy coat becomes the barrier that
traps the inchoate
moisture and allows it to percolate. Many
differing opinions abound on
the efficacy of epoxy. Some say vinylester is a
better barrier coat.
Normally the once repaired laminate is spared from
structural problems
and the damage is limited to the layer immediately
following the epoxy.
The blister issue is very complicated and other
than using Isothalic
resins or vinylester resins for skin coats or the
first few layers
coupled with careful layups without voids and done
with powder bound
mats there are no guarantees.

I speced all vinylester resin for Cyrano but that
only lessens the
likelihood of blistering it doesn’t eliminate it
Jim
On Jan 13, 2005, at 8:46 AM, mrgearha@yahoo.com
wrote:

I noticed you mentioned an epoxy barrier coat.
I thought this was
supposed to insulate against blisters? I have
an epoxy barrier
coat on Godspeed. Should I be looking for
blisters as well? Thanks,

Mark Gearhart
s/v Godspeed

— In bcc@yahoogroups.com , “marty_chin”
<marty_chin@y…> wrote:

We just spent the last two days In
Svendsen’s Marine Yard wet
sanding the bottom with 25 grit green
disks, a random orbit air
sander and a water hose.

In the process of discovery, we found
bottom paint over,faring
compound, epoxy barrier coat, yellowed
epoxy and finally glass

mat.

We were instructed to try Interlux
Interstrip (pinoff) to take
the
paint off (20 minutes to 2 hours wait time
recommended on the
can)
at $26 per quart, temperaure has a large
effect on removal time

(60

deg), we did manage to loosten the paint
in 1 hour and scraped a
test patch off with a carbide scraper, did
not affect the epoxy
barrier coat.

We later tired a test patch of Jesco paint
and epoxy remover,
dangerous stuff concerning fiberglass
hull, possibility of

damaging

the fiberglass they say. We applied it
over the bottom paint,

paint

started running down the hull in as little
as 10 minutes,
still no
affect on softening the epoxy barrier
coat. We stopped testing
for
fear of penetrating the beyond the epoxy
barrier coat and

attacking

the fiberglass.

For removing the paint only, we found a
sharp carbide blade in a
Sandvik scraper with only modest pressure
out performed the

chemical

strippers, non-toxic, smooth cut and much
easier on the wallet.

Best course of action, most painfull, if
not tiring, seemed to be

25

grit green disks on the random orbit
sander, with water to wash

away

the sludge left behind while sanding. The
paint came off quickly,
barrier coat took more effort to slowly
grind away down to bare
fiberglass.

We sanded down both sides of the hull from
the bow back 6 feet,

the

barrier coat blister were 1/4" in size and
tightly spaced on both
sides, failure probably due to inadiquate
hull drying time prior

to

application. We found laminate blister
under the matt cloth,

quarter

sized and widely spaced on the port side;
2" sized blister under

the

matt closely spaced on the starboard side,
all seem to be shallow

at

present limited to the matt.

The current plan is to have Svendsen’s do
a peel down to the
first
layer of cloth and see what this reveals,
we are hopeful from
present visual evidence that only the mat
is affected.
Planning on
peeling this Thursday or Friday.

Research and conversations with hull
builders suggest a times

there

is no rime or reason for blisters in some
boats, two boats built

at

the same time from the same materials, one
could develope blister
and the other did not, who knows.

I don’t think the developement of blisters
in our boat in anyway
negatively reflects on the BCC as a whole,
I’m quite sure from a
structural strength standpoint, she could
shed a few layers of

glass

and still survive a hurricane, a sound
beaching and still come
out
of it intact. It’s actually more of a
cosmetic issue at this
stage.

In any event, I think it is important to
discuss what we find,

what

products work an to what degree, costs
etc, simply for the
sake of
education of the group.

The plan thus far is to peel, dry to 5%
moisture content, add two
layers of glass with West Epoxy, fare,
epoxy barrier coat, bottom
paint and get back to sailing.

Best wishes to all.

Marty Chin, BCC Shamrock.

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