We are soon to take delivery of BCC#115 and are wrestling with the
approach to coatings on the bulwarks, taffrail (mahogany) and
bowsprit. We are leaning toward an epoxy base coat (Smith€ '²s
Penetrating Epoxy) followed by a Sterling LPU (2 part) product. The
objective (heresy-I know) is to have these components of the boat to
be coated with as durable and low maintenance treatment as possible.
This is the method (LPU) Roger has used on his boat. I€ '²ve looked
at
it and it seems to be holding up very well in the constant sun of
Southern California (although Roger has been too busy building
BCC€ '²s
to get his boat out on the open ocean for any great length of time).
I€ '²ve revisited (for the umpteenth time) all the previous messages
on
this forum regarding this subject (Cetol, Armada, Alkyd paint
etc.). As most of these discussions took place nearly a year ago I
am wondering if anyone out there has any new experiences/information
to add before we make the leap (which has to be darn soon).
On a separate but related subject: The rest of the exterior wood on #115 is teak (hatches, trim). We are going to clear coat the teak
with something (even I can€ '²t paint teak). Any suggestions here?
good question. the only argument i would have against a “high tech” coating
is the difficulty in touching up nicks and dings, especially on the
bulwarks. my bulwarks are painted with sterling as well. it is a couple of
years old and still looks good.
what some of the sportfishing buiders are doing in north carolina is to
put on a clear lpu base coat, then varnish over that. it brings out the
amber in the varnish, allows easy touch up and protects the wood with a high
tech film if the varnish team is neglectful
john churchill
BUCEPHALUS BCC # 65
P.S. i have a cape dory 26 for sale, set up for singlehanded offshore
sailing if anyone is interested. $22K
I am not an expert by I heard that the epoxy coatings are durable but when
they go bad you cant get it off the wood. It almost destroys the wood to
take it off.
-----Original Message-----
From: Pete Cisek <pjcisek@prodigy.net >
To: bcc@egroups.com <bcc@egroups.com >
Date: Wednesday, April 12, 2000 1:15 PM
Subject: [bcc] Bulwarks Coating
Hello Folks:
We are soon to take delivery of BCC#115 and are wrestling with the
approach to coatings on the bulwarks, taffrail (mahogany) and
bowsprit. We are leaning toward an epoxy base coat (Smith€ '²s
Penetrating Epoxy) followed by a Sterling LPU (2 part) product. The
objective (heresy-I know) is to have these components of the boat to
be coated with as durable and low maintenance treatment as possible.
This is the method (LPU) Roger has used on his boat. I€ '²ve looked
at
it and it seems to be holding up very well in the constant sun of
Southern California (although Roger has been too busy building
BCC€ '²s
to get his boat out on the open ocean for any great length of time).
I€ '²ve revisited (for the umpteenth time) all the previous messages
on
this forum regarding this subject (Cetol, Armada, Alkyd paint
etc.). As most of these discussions took place nearly a year ago I
am wondering if anyone out there has any new experiences/information
to add before we make the leap (which has to be darn soon).
On a separate but related subject: The rest of the exterior wood on #115 is teak (hatches, trim). We are going to clear coat the teak
with something (even I can€ '²t paint teak). Any suggestions here?
Epoxy is in general terms a long chain molecule. UV has a nasty tendency to break down long chain molecules. Worse, wood moves around but epoxy coatings have a different modulus of elasticity (read brittle) and don't move so much. If you want to use a clear epoxy coating on wood be sure to overcoat it with UV protected varnish. Should work as long as the glue joins are tight. Single part 'epoxy' isn't really epoxy. Two part material is. The latter generally is worth the extra cost if it is paint you are talking about. I have had excellent luck with 3 to 4 fast coats of tung oil then varnish on teak. Recommend calling a coatings guy at one of the big marine paint makers-be sure you are talking to a technician. They do know their stuff. Also not an expert. R Myers
I am not an expert by I heard that the epoxy coatings are durable but when they go bad you cant get it off the wood. It almost destroys the wood to take it off. -----Original Message----- From: Pete Cisek <pjcisek@prodigy.net > To: bcc@egroups.com <bcc@egroups.com > Date: Wednesday, April 12, 2000 1:15 PM Subject: [bcc] Bulwarks Coating
>Hello Folks: > >We are soon to take delivery of BCC#115 and are wrestling with the >approach to coatings on the bulwarks, taffrail (mahogany) and >bowsprit. We are leaning toward an epoxy base coat (Smith¬ '€ ¢²s >Penetrating Epoxy) followed by a Sterling LPU (2 part) product. The >objective (heresy-I know) is to have these components of the boat to >be coated with as durable and low maintenance treatment as possible. > >This is the method (LPU) Roger has used on his boat. I¬ '€ ¢²ve looked >at >it and it seems to be holding up very well in the constant sun of >Southern California (although Roger has been too busy building >BCC¬ '€ ¢²s >to get his boat out on the open ocean for any great length of time). > >I¬ '€ ¢²ve revisited (for the umpteenth time) all the previous messages >on >this forum regarding this subject (Cetol, Armada, Alkyd paint >etc.). As most of these discussions took place nearly a year ago I >am wondering if anyone out there has any new experiences/information >to add before we make the leap (which has to be darn soon). > >On a separate but related subject: The rest of the exterior wood on >#115 is teak (hatches, trim). We are going to clear coat the teak >with something (even I can¬ '€ ¢²t paint teak). Any suggestions here? > > Thanks ¬ '€ ¢¶ Pete & Annette > > > > > > > >------------------------------------------------------------------------ >High rates giving you headaches? The 0% APR Introductory Rate from >Capital One. 9.9% Fixed thereafter! >http://click.egroups.com/1/3010/0/_/6486/_/955560244/ >------------------------------------------------------------------------ > >
We’re struggling with this decision too. I’m a little skeptical
about epoxy and polyurethane, but I don’t know what’s better, yet.
One thing I noticed about the Smith’s products we used on our Tartan
three years ago confirms the point Roy made. We used two coats of
Smith’s CPES, followed by 3 coats of Smith’s clear polyurethane. It
was gorgeous the first year, and most of the second year. But then we
had some moisture intrusion around the edges, especially at the deck
to toerail join. Interestingly, on our current boat, there’s only one
place where there is a wood to wood joint – a louvered vent in the
top washboard – and around this vent at the gluejoint the finish is
separating from the wood. Given all the wood on the BCC’s bulwarks
and the gluejoints at each base, I’m not sure I want to try it. Is
there a product that will handle the movement of the wood?
So (third year) we have stripped the toerail, basically to bare wood
with heat guns and sanded smooth. We’re trying Armada’s moisture
cure urethane product, which looks great now. Who knows about the
durability, but at least Armada says it can be recoated, unlike the
polyurethane.