Nice!
Interesting. What’s the name of the boat, and where is it? Not your boat? A professional job? Honduras mahogany, teak or ??
We’re a big fan of painted bulwarks, but have always brushed it on. I wonder if the wood was sealed with epoxy before the spraying? Hope so.
Removing the stanchions sure makes painting easier, but it’s a pain to do. I’ve done it twice, and was tempted to reinstall the stanchion base’s bolts reversed, with the nuts on deck. That would sure make the removal for painting easier. I wonder if anyone has tried this?
Dan Shaula
Would reversing the stanchion base bolts reversed make removal easier?
I am in the process of refinishing my bulwarks. I have removed the stanchions (and I’m replacing the stainless steel stanchions with bronze stanchions from Port Townsend Foundry). When removing the stanchions I’ve found that the head of the bolt has to be immobilized in order to remove the nut (otherwise the fastener just rotates). That would be a two-person job if the bolt was installed reversed, but with the head of the bolt on the deck, I’ve found that I can place a socket wrench on the bolt, wedge it against a bulwark post and remove the nut from below - a one-person job, so I don’t see how it would be easier to remove the bolts if the nut is at deck level.
In any event, refinishing the bulwarks is a huge job! I am using Interlux epoxy paint for most of the bulwarks and varnish for the outside flat sections. I also have Sunbrella covers for the bulwarks, which will remain in place when the boat is at dock. This is the second time that I have refinished the bulwarks (first time I used an Interlux one-part finish and Bristol Finish) and I’m hoping this refinishing will be the last time for me. It is not an easy job!
Gary
Dioscourie
#064
Gary,
You make a good point. To keep the bolt from spinning, I thought I’d use a very strong adhesive, maybe even 5200. If the bolts needed to be removed, I think heating the bolt would allow it to break the bond.
However, I didn’t actually try this out–it’s a daydream I think about while I don’t bother removing them, and try to use masking tape to keep the paint off the stainless.
Bronze stanchions from PTF sure look good. Are you using bronze posts or SS posts in the bronze bases? Can you remove just the posts, leaving the bases? That would make the masking tape job and painting a LOT easier.
Gary,
You make a good point. To keep the bolt from spinning, I thought I’d use a very strong adhesive, maybe even 5200. If the bolts needed to be removed, I think heating the bolt would allow it to break the bond.
However, I didn’t actually try this out–it’s a daydream I think about while I don’t bother removing them, and try to use masking tape to keep the paint off the stainless.
Bronze stanchions from PTF sure look good. Are you using bronze posts or SS posts in the bronze bases? Can you remove just the posts, leaving the bases? That would make the masking tape job and painting a LOT easier.
Gary,
You make a good point. To keep the bolt from spinning, I thought I’d use a very strong adhesive, maybe even 5200. If the bolts needed to be removed, I think heating the bolt would allow it to break the bond.
However, I didn’t actually try this out–it’s a daydream I think about while I don’t bother removing them, and try to use masking tape to keep the paint off the stainless.
Bronze stanchion bases from PTF sure look good. Are you using bronze or SS stanchions in the bronze bases? Can you remove just the stanchions, leaving the bases? That would make the masking tape job and painting a LOT easier. (Forget about reversing the bolts!)
Doug on Caliste used SS posts (they look removable in the pic I took?) with PTF bases and that looks like the way to go. Is shimming the bases to get the angles right difficult?
Dan Shaula
Hi Dan
I am using bronze bases and bronze stanchions and yes the stanchions can be removed from the bases. I did have to shim each stanchion base so that the stanchion stood vertically at the correct angle, but it wasn’t really that difficult - it involved a bit of trial and error fitting. I am also fabricating bronze and mahogany braces which will attach to the top of the bulwarks and surround the stanchion to give the stanchions more support. The SS stanchions had a SS ring that surrounded the stanchion and attached to the bulwark at the top. It may not be necessary but it seems like a good idea given that one of the advantages of bulwarks is that they can be used to provide more support for the stanchions.
Gary
Dioscouri
#064
Hi Dan,
Yes, she’s my boat. We’re located in the SF Bay Area…presently on the hard at Svendson’s Boat Works. It was reported that she originally had a one part epoxy applied, topped with Brightsides and later Epiphanes Monourthane single part. We tried adding a maintenance coat with the brush, but just couldn’t get the quality finish I wanted. The spray job did the trick!
Hi Dan,
Yes I own her - she’s presently on the hard in Northern Ca for at least another month. The Bulwarks are reported to be Mahogany with one part epoxy applied prior to receiving Brightsides as a topcoat after she was built. The previous owners applied two coats of Epiphanes one part Monourethan in 2010, and she just received two brushed coats finished off with a sprayed coat.
Attached are some pictures of the rudder after it was reassembled and a primer coat applied.
Hi Dan,
Yes I own her - she’s presently on the hard in Northern Ca for at least another month. The Bulwarks are reported to be Mahogany with one part epoxy applied prior to receiving Brightsides as a topcoat after she was built. The previous owners applied two coats of Epiphanes one part Monourethan in 2010, and she just received two brushed coats finished off with a sprayed coat.
Attached are some pictures of the rudder after it was reassembled and a primer coat applied.
