OK, what to do next… I’ve only had 2 pieces of very
bad advice from Roger Olson. The first was to use Sikkens (sp)
Cetol over my mahagony. I spent a humid and rainy 97-98 season
in Florida and the Cetol just let the moisture come right
through. A complete product failure IMHO. The result was dark
spots and general terrible look when wet. I was re-applying
and touching up it seemed every single week. I know what you
are thinking, but YES, I did follow the directions exactly.
Just before I put the boat up in April 98 (had to go back
to work), I put on a coat of clear spar urethane over top of
the Cetol, to seal the wood. Didn’t have time to strip off
the Cetol. Reports from home indicate the wood is sealed and
holding up well, although I now have some very visible dark
spots under the urethane.
I’ll be back aboard this April. Any suggestions? I will never
use Cetol again. I’m thinking of continuing the urethane but
I wonder if it will continue to stick over top of Cetol? I’d
hate having to strip the whole thing down to bare wood and
start all over again.
Verrrrry Interesting (he says in his best Artie Johnson imitation). We’re
planning to head south this fall and have Cetol’d bulwarks! I would be
interested in hearing any responses as well!! To date - in the Chesapeake -
we’ve been quite happy with Cetol.
OK, what to do next… I’ve only had 2 pieces of very
bad advice from Roger Olson. The first was to use Sikkens (sp)
Cetol over my mahagony. I spent a humid and rainy 97-98 season
in Florida and the Cetol just let the moisture come right
through. A complete product failure IMHO. The result was dark
spots and general terrible look when wet. I was re-applying
and touching up it seemed every single week. I know what you
are thinking, but YES, I did follow the directions exactly.
Just before I put the boat up in April 98 (had to go back
to work), I put on a coat of clear spar urethane over top of
the Cetol, to seal the wood. Didn’t have time to strip off
the Cetol. Reports from home indicate the wood is sealed and
holding up well, although I now have some very visible dark
spots under the urethane.
I’ll be back aboard this April. Any suggestions? I will never
use Cetol again. I’m thinking of continuing the urethane but
I wonder if it will continue to stick over top of Cetol? I’d
hate having to strip the whole thing down to bare wood and
start all over again.
OK, what to do next… I’ve only had 2 pieces of very
bad advice from Roger Olson. The first was to use Sikkens (sp)
Cetol over my mahagony. I spent a humid and rainy 97-98 season
in Florida and the Cetol just let the moisture come right
through. A complete product failure IMHO. The result was dark
spots and general terrible look when wet. I was re-applying
and touching up it seemed every single week. I know what you
are thinking, but YES, I did follow the directions exactly.
<
Hi Mark!
A marine carpenter friend of my brother (both formerly of Ft Lauderdale,
but currently in the BVI) told me that the Feds forced Sikkens to
reformulate their product 2-3 years ago. So what is on the shelf today is
an inferior product to the original Cetol. This really was the stuff
when it first came out down there. But now, he tells us that the preferred
varnish substitute is a competiter called Armour or Armor-al.
From the scanty knowledge I have about the product it does not have the
sheen that the original Cetol had but it holds up very well in the
murderous Florida sun which will turn a blue polytarp to tissue shreds in
90 days or less. (been there done that)
I’ve seen that armour/armour-al product well spoken of in Practical Sailor,
but I would be hard pressed to find the issue I saw it in.
From a professional refinisher’s standpoint , Cetol products have been
excellent in Florida’s extreme weather conditions. My experience (for
11 years in Florida) with Sikkens is primarily with teak; and since I
have a 53’ boat built in 1939, I must stand by the traditional finish of
varnish on mahogany.
If applied properly, i.e. thinning the first cost so that it can
penetrate and seal the wood, you should experience no problems with the
Cetol product. I do however recommend 3 coats for the Florida sun.
Thanks Dian. I have heard from several people, including you, that
Cetol is fine over Teak. But, my exterior wood is mahagony. This leads
me to think that the product is somehow not appropriate for this type
of wood.
Are there any BCC’s out there using Cetol over mahagony?
From a professional refinisher’s standpoint , Cetol products have been
excellent in Florida’s extreme weather conditions. My experience (for
11 years in Florida) with Sikkens is primarily with teak; and since I
have a 53’ boat built in 1939, I must stand by the traditional finish of
varnish on mahogany.
If applied properly, i.e. thinning the first cost so that it can
penetrate and seal the wood, you should experience no problems with the
Cetol product. I do however recommend 3 coats for the Florida sun.
I refinished my hatches and put Armorall (or however it’s spelled) them last
winter and, here in the Chesapeake area, they held up quite well. Granted, it
is only one season and I have covers for the refinished areas. They do seem to
scuff a little easier than the Cetol finished areas. One thing to note, Cetol
and Armorall are completely compatible with each other. You can put one over the
other without any special preparation. There could be something to the
reformulation issue. My bulwarks were finished with Cetol more than 2 - 3 years
ago. Maybe I have a good base coat as they seem to be holding up pretty well.
Tom Walker
Aloha
BCC #95
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: [bcc] Cetol did not work
Author: DKircher@compuserve.com (Tristan) at SMTPGATE
Date: 1/23/99 11:39
OK, what to do next… I’ve only had 2 pieces of very
bad advice from Roger Olson. The first was to use Sikkens (sp)
Cetol over my mahagony. I spent a humid and rainy 97-98 season
in Florida and the Cetol just let the moisture come right
through. A complete product failure IMHO. The result was dark
spots and general terrible look when wet. I was re-applying and
touching up it seemed every single week. I know what you are
thinking, but YES, I did follow the directions exactly.
<
Hi Mark!
A marine carpenter friend of my brother (both formerly of Ft Lauderdale,
but currently in the BVI) told me that the Feds forced Sikkens to
reformulate their product 2-3 years ago. So what is on the shelf today is
an inferior product to the original Cetol. This really was the stuff
when it first came out down there. But now, he tells us that the preferred
varnish substitute is a competiter called Armour or Armor-al.
From the scanty knowledge I have about the product it does not have the
sheen that the original Cetol had but it holds up very well in the
murderous Florida sun which will turn a blue polytarp to tissue shreds in
90 days or less. (been there done that)
I’ve seen that armour/armour-al product well spoken of in Practical Sailor,
but I would be hard pressed to find the issue I saw it in.
This is Mark. I think this marine carpenter friend of your brother
may be on to the problem. Its hard to believe Cetol would be so bad
on my BCC when everyone else thinks its a gift from heaven. I would
agree, the reformulated version is not the same product as the original.
By the way, I applied in bone dry weather over bone dry wood, against
the original sanded and clean wood. 3 coats, in the shade. Temperature
was in the 70’s. Reapplied the 3rd coat every 6 months. So, there was
no error in application, I am certain of this.
I’ll look into this other product Amorall (sp). But actually, I think
urethane is a more comfortable option for me because I know for a fact
that the wood is sealed.
OK, what to do next… I’ve only had 2 pieces of very
bad advice from Roger Olson. The first was to use Sikkens (sp)
Cetol over my mahagony. I spent a humid and rainy 97-98 season
in Florida and the Cetol just let the moisture come right
through. A complete product failure IMHO. The result was dark
spots and general terrible look when wet. I was re-applying
and touching up it seemed every single week. I know what you
are thinking, but YES, I did follow the directions exactly.
<
Hi Mark!
A marine carpenter friend of my brother (both formerly of Ft Lauderdale,
but currently in the BVI) told me that the Feds forced Sikkens to
reformulate their product 2-3 years ago. So what is on the shelf today is
an inferior product to the original Cetol. This really was the stuff
when it first came out down there. But now, he tells us that the preferred
varnish substitute is a competiter called Armour or Armor-al.
From the scanty knowledge I have about the product it does not have the
sheen that the original Cetol had but it holds up very well in the
murderous Florida sun which will turn a blue polytarp to tissue shreds in
90 days or less. (been there done that)
I’ve seen that armour/armour-al product well spoken of in Practical Sailor,
but I would be hard pressed to find the issue I saw it in.
I’ll look into this other product Amorall (sp). But actually, I think
urethane is a more comfortable option for me because I know for a fact
that the wood is sealed.
<
Capt Nat Herreshoff supposedly said the only colors you should paint a boat
are white or black and since I have no need of a stealth BCC that narrows
the field somewhat. So it’s flat or semi gloss white marine alkyd enamel
for me, once a year whether she needs it or not. Then just to break the
monotony I’ll leave a high maintenence cetoled vertical strake. But there
will be no question that the wood is sealed. Looks be damned, this is the
ultimate bottom line after all. I have mahogany bulwarks also which are
currently covered with a single sealing coat of Cetol and the Florida sun
has not been kind. If the varnish proves to be too much of a problem I’ll
strip it and repaint the strake the same color as the bootstripe. If
you’ve ever seen photos of Taleisin, she’s painted to workboat standards
white with a black stripe and it doesn’t look shabby at all.
I think the Cetol alternative is called Armada. While I haven’t tried it (yet), neighbors have and like it. Here’s a website for the company. http://www.boatmail.net/page14.html
This is Mark. I think this marine carpenter friend of your brother
may be on to the problem. Its hard to believe Cetol would be so bad
on my BCC when everyone else thinks its a gift from heaven. I would
agree, the reformulated version is not the same product as the original.
By the way, I applied in bone dry weather over bone dry wood, against
the original sanded and clean wood. 3 coats, in the shade. Temperature
was in the 70’s. Reapplied the 3rd coat every 6 months. So, there was
no error in application, I am certain of this.
I’ll look into this other product Amorall (sp). But actually, I think
urethane is a more comfortable option for me because I know for a fact
that the wood is sealed.
OK, what to do next… I’ve only had 2 pieces of very
bad advice from Roger Olson. The first was to use Sikkens (sp)
Cetol over my mahagony. I spent a humid and rainy 97-98 season
in Florida and the Cetol just let the moisture come right
through. A complete product failure IMHO. The result was dark
spots and general terrible look when wet. I was re-applying
and touching up it seemed every single week. I know what you
are thinking, but YES, I did follow the directions exactly.
<
Hi Mark!
A marine carpenter friend of my brother (both formerly of Ft Lauderdale,
but currently in the BVI) told me that the Feds forced Sikkens to
reformulate their product 2-3 years ago. So what is on the shelf today is
an inferior product to the original Cetol. This really was the stuff
when it first came out down there. But now, he tells us that the preferred
varnish substitute is a competiter called Armour or Armor-al.
From the scanty knowledge I have about the product it does not have the
sheen that the original Cetol had but it holds up very well in the
murderous Florida sun which will turn a blue polytarp to tissue shreds in
90 days or less. (been there done that)
I’ve seen that armour/armour-al product well spoken of in Practical Sailor,
but I would be hard pressed to find the issue I saw it in.
I think the name of the Cetol alternative product is Armada.
I haven’t used it yet, but neighbors have, and liked it. Here’s
a website for the company. http://www.boatmail.net/page14.html
I think the name of the Cetol alternative product is Armada.
I haven’t used it yet, but neighbors have, and liked it. Here’s
a website for the company.
THAT’S THE WORD!!! “Armada” is the product that I was trying to remember
the name of. Someone had said Armor-all earlier and I couldn’t get that
thought out from between my ears!!!
I think the name of the Cetol alternative product is Armada.
I haven’t used it yet, but neighbors have, and liked it. Here’s
a website for the company.
I’ll look into this other product Amorall (sp). But actually, I think
urethane is a more comfortable option for me because I know for a fact
that the wood is sealed.
<
Capt Nat Herreshoff supposedly said the only colors you should paint a boat
are white or black and since I have no need of a stealth BCC that narrows
the field somewhat. So it’s flat or semi gloss white marine alkyd enamel
for me, once a year whether she needs it or not. Then just to break the
monotony I’ll leave a high maintenence cetoled vertical strake. But there
will be no question that the wood is sealed. Looks be damned, this is the
ultimate bottom line after all. I have mahogany bulwarks also which are
currently covered with a single sealing coat of Cetol and the Florida sun
has not been kind. If the varnish proves to be too much of a problem I’ll
strip it and repaint the strake the same color as the bootstripe. If
you’ve ever seen photos of Taleisin, she’s painted to workboat standards
white with a black stripe and it doesn’t look shabby at all.
i believe the product is called Armada. i for one do not care for the
appearance of cetol or similar product, although i am impressed by their
apparent durability. as my crotchety uncle says “you have two choices- varnish
it or leave it alone, nothing else works”. of course he is retired and spends
a good portion of his waking hours maintaining his immaculate bermuda 40.
OK, what to do next… I’ve only had 2 pieces of very
bad advice from Roger Olson. The first was to use Sikkens (sp)
Cetol over my mahagony. I spent a humid and rainy 97-98 season
in Florida and the Cetol just let the moisture come right
through. A complete product failure IMHO. The result was dark
spots and general terrible look when wet. I was re-applying
and touching up it seemed every single week. I know what you
are thinking, but YES, I did follow the directions exactly.
<
Hi Mark!
A marine carpenter friend of my brother (both formerly of Ft Lauderdale,
but currently in the BVI) told me that the Feds forced Sikkens to
reformulate their product 2-3 years ago. So what is on the shelf today is
an inferior product to the original Cetol. This really was the stuff
when it first came out down there. But now, he tells us that the preferred
varnish substitute is a competiter called Armour or Armor-al.
From the scanty knowledge I have about the product it does not have the
sheen that the original Cetol had but it holds up very well in the
murderous Florida sun which will turn a blue polytarp to tissue shreds in
90 days or less. (been there done that)
I’ve seen that armour/armour-al product well spoken of in Practical Sailor,
but I would be hard pressed to find the issue I saw it in.