I am painting the inside of calypso this week and am using Interlux Brightside. The can says to sand between coats, but I’d like to avoid this step if necessary and it has been a while since I painted the cabin (and I am pretty sure I did not sand between coats then). has anyone recently done such a job and have real knowledge about not sanding? If the answer is yes, any idea what my recoat time should be? The can says dry to the touch in 4 hours; sand after 16. Does this mean I can repaint within that window?
Unfortunately, it is our experience, you will need to scuff the paint with either 180 or 220 grit sandpaper or a 3M pad after the coat is dry. We have “hot coated” varnish several hours after applying the first coat with success These “hot coats” were not final coats hence we sanded after the “hot coat” dried. Ambient conditions were 70-80 F and low humidity. The risk of “hot coating” is most of the solvent in the first coat may not evaporate and the paint will remain soft for several days or a week depending on ambient conditions. I suspect B&L have more experience in this area. I respect their experience and knowledge.
I have used Brightside extensively on many projects. Unfortunately, what Rod says is true - if you try to hot coat this product, it will have poor adhesion, and likely develop a “crazed” pattern from improper curing. This is an issue with every plastic-based paint I know of.
There are some matte enamels that can be coated without sanding, and with a final gloss coat, they will look quite good. Enamel is cheap and has been around, with good reason, for a long time. That said, I think not sanding between coats is a bad idea; it’s not worth finding the paint peeling in a few months to save two or three hours today. The previous owner of our W32 hot coated Easypoxy Matte throughout the boat’s lockers; the slightest nick tears the paint off. It is terribly time consuming going back now to strip the old paint!
If you do use the Brightside, I highly suggest using their “Precote” primer; it’s great to work with, cures very quick, and makes the Brightside bite to anything.
Nica,
I’m surprised more people don’t know this little trick. Get a tack cloth and wipe the wood down with Penetrol, then paint. Works great. I have been using that technique for years with both varnish and paint. Flood says it works with one part polyurethanes, enamels, varnishes etc. DO NOT use it with 2 part paints.
My father had one of the largest painting contracting businesses in California and told me about this years ago, and it works a wonder.
Also add it to your paint/varnish instead of thinner. Makes it flow like the Mississippi. And adds body to the paint instead of thinning it.
Aaron,
It works between coats. Or use it as an initial coat. I don’t really know what you mean by artificial surfaces. Pick up a can and read the directions, it’s amazing what it will do. I can vouch for the fact that it is all true.
I’ve ALWAYS used it in varnish… never heard of the wipe down trick – will give it a shot when the time comes. It is cool stuff… thanks for the tip Gary.
Your welcome Ben. After all us hanker oners need to stick together.
After you wipe on the Penetrol, let it get tacky before applying your next coat of paint/varnish. If your using a one part paint on your bulwarks this will work well for you.
Penetrol is also good for coating bronze. 2-3 coats, wipe on, leave a few seconds, wipe excess off. Prevent it going fuzzy green and lets it take on that deep brown look. Another tip, also from Pete at PT Foundry: use ketchup to first clean the bronze instead of commercial polish. Non-toxic. It works. It also works on micarta, the material that is layers of linen impregnated with resin under high pressure and almost indestructable.
Ahoy Gary , gosh I hope that you are enjoying your BCC, as much as we are enjoying you being an owner and contributing to this forum.
Your “hard won” knowledge is important to all of us , here.
Could you tell us just why Penetrol (sp-?) does such great job, for our painting projects ?
Might you tell us just why paint manufacturers don’t add the Penetrol to their paints, to begin with or is it one of those “patent” issues, that get to all of us from time to time ?
Out here in S’pore we have v little support from paint manufacture’s , with the exception of anti-foul paints.
When I was in Oz, I discovered a mildewcide paint additive, that I have added, albeit sparingly, to the interior varnish,coatings that I have applied to my interior woodwork, and soooo far, this has worked great to stop mold and mildew in their tracks on the woodwork.
Are you planning any sailing video from the deck of a BCC , that you could share with us ?