I’m remodeling the interior and want to use the tongue&groove panels
like the fiberglass ones from Sam L. Morse. I found pine paneling
that looks like it would work well. Questions: 1. Has anyone tried
this? 2. Should I coat the back sides for the cabin ceiling with a
wood preservative/water-proofer in case they get exposed to moisture?
3. Do you need insulation with the plywood-core cabin top and will
1/4 thick do the job? Also, does anyone know where I can get
replacement parts for the portlights?
Lanny: I used 1/4" plywood for the panels and simply used a router and a chamfer bit to make the grooves. Looks great. I did not do anything to the back surface. Four cruising years later, no problems. A sealer coat would not hurt, just don't put biocide in the living space. I did use the insulation that the Sam Morse Co is using; Eperan foam in 1/2" thickness. It would not have hurt to go thicker, depending on the area you live in. Thinner, no. Roy Myers, SV MINX ( #30)
I'm remodeling the interior and want to use the tongue&groove panels like the fiberglass ones from Sam L. Morse. I found pine paneling that looks like it would work well. Questions: 1. Has anyone tried this? 2. Should I coat the back sides for the cabin ceiling with a wood preservative/water-proofer in case they get exposed to moisture? 3. Do you need insulation with the plywood-core cabin top and will 1/4 thick do the job? Also, does anyone know where I can get replacement parts for the portlights?
I rebuilt the head/bucket area in last boat - an aft-cabin Flicka, - using
2" thick Hawaiian Koa that I ripped into 2" by 1/2" thick pieces to make
vertical gained slats (vertical gain saw wood is less prone to warp and
movement.). These were brought to dimension with a thickness planer.
Finished dimension was 2" X 3/8". The two facing edges were then beveled on
a router table. The plywood bulkhead was then faced with the finished
slates to make the wainscoting. The 2" X 3/8" pieces were drilled and
countersunk to accept a Koa plug. Each piece was attached with #8 5/8"
bronze flathead wood screws. The ceiling on the inside of the cabin roof
was done in a similar fashion but painted to “open up” the cabin. Images of
the wainscoting on the interior of the aft-cabin Flicka may be found at http://home.att.net/~africanmoon/ . As a side note, if you want to plug the
screw holes, the wood needs to be a minimum of 3/8" thick. By-the-by, we
just purchased a BCC which should arrive today via truck. The ceiling on the
BCC’s cabin overhead is done is a similar fashion but with wider slates.
The BCC’s overhead ceiling is Alaskan cedar. Instead of using ply-paneling,
I believe you will have an easier time of fitting the overhead ceiling if
you use 2" to 3" wide slates which are a minimum of 3/8" thick. I would
select a lighter wood instead of teak or mahogany such as white oak, Alaskan
cedar, cherry, clear white pine, cypress, etc. These woods are readily
available and are well suited for interior use.
Fair Winds,
Rod Bruckdorfer
S/V IDUNA
Baltimore, Maryland
----- Original Message -----
From: Lanny E Luhmann <lannyl9@mail.idt.net >
To: <bcc@egroups.com >
Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2000 10:42 PM
Subject: [bcc] Interior paneling
I’m remodeling the interior and want to use the tongue&groove panels
like the fiberglass ones from Sam L. Morse. I found pine paneling
that looks like it would work well. Questions: 1. Has anyone tried
this? 2. Should I coat the back sides for the cabin ceiling with a
wood preservative/water-proofer in case they get exposed to moisture?
3. Do you need insulation with the plywood-core cabin top and will
1/4 thick do the job? Also, does anyone know where I can get
replacement parts for the portlights?
Roger quoted me a price in the neighborhood of 98 dollars per sheet for that
fiberglass panel plus shipping.
A coat of cuprinol certainly couldn’t hurt…how’s that saying go; an ounce
of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
Call ABI for their catalog at 707-765-6200 1160-A Industrial Ave. Petaluma
CA 94952 for portlight parts. They do not sell to
the general public but armed with the catalog numbers you may order whatever
you need from the chandlery of your choice.
I’d be very interested in hearing your plans for the remodel. Please keep me
posted on your progress.
hooroo
Don
----- Original Message -----
From: “Lanny E Luhmann” <lannyl9@idt.net >
To: <bcc@egroups.com >
Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2000 10:42 PM
Subject: [bcc] Interior paneling
I’m remodeling the interior and want to use the tongue&groove panels
like the fiberglass ones from Sam L. Morse. I found pine paneling
that looks like it would work well. Questions: 1. Has anyone tried
this? 2. Should I coat the back sides for the cabin ceiling with a
wood preservative/water-proofer in case they get exposed to moisture?
3. Do you need insulation with the plywood-core cabin top and will
1/4 thick do the job? Also, does anyone know where I can get
replacement parts for the portlights?
I’m doing an extensive overhaul. In other words EVERYTHING. It’s
basically like making a new BCC all over again from a rough interior
stage. I’ve removed all the hardware on the topsides including
hatches and portlights, removed the bowsprit and rudder, stripped the
hull bottom coats and sanded the gel coat, stripped all the painted
and varnished surfaces, taken apart most of the interior. Removed all
the water, and fuel tanks. Stripping and sanding the the bulwarks was
a really, really big job, about 80 hours. They look so much better
cleaned up that I’m hesitant to paint them as I originally planned.
I’ll be painting the hull and topsides with 2-part Awlgrip this
spring and hopefully get most of the interior done by winter end.
Then I’ll start on the wiring.
My fuel tank was just forward of the engine as I think this was the
way the earlier BCC’s were configured. (Hull # 35) I believe the
newer ones are located further aft allowing much better access to the
bilge ahead of the engine. I’m going to replace the tanks with the
polyethene type. I have lots of pictures but I probably won’t make
them available until this spring. Is there an earsier way to clean up
the brightwork on the bronze portlights and fittings? I’ve done this
by hand polishing before but this will be a much bigger effort.
I wonder if a Dremel tool could be used to polish the brightwork. They
might already have a polishing pad attachment, but even if they didn’t it
shouldn’t be hard to rig one.
Thom Dyson
Lanny wrote:
Is there an easier way to clean up the brightwork on the bronze portlights
and fittings?
It sounds like we are at about the same spot in the process, Lanny, except
I am working from a bare hull. You can see what
I’ve done so far at my website http://home.earthlink.net/~baggywrinkle
There will be some new photos up soon of my rudder and some smaller
projects.
Keep in touch and we can compare notes
Regards
Don
----- Original Message -----
From: “Lanny E Luhmann” <lannyl9@idt.net >
To: <bcc@egroups.com >
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2000 3:06 PM
Subject: [bcc] Re: Interior paneling
I’m doing an extensive overhaul. In other words EVERYTHING. It’s
basically like making a new BCC all over again from a rough interior
stage. I’ve removed all the hardware on the topsides including
hatches and portlights, removed the bowsprit and rudder, stripped the
hull bottom coats and sanded the gel coat, stripped all the painted
and varnished surfaces, taken apart most of the interior. Removed all
the water, and fuel tanks. Stripping and sanding the the bulwarks was
a really, really big job, about 80 hours. They look so much better
cleaned up that I’m hesitant to paint them as I originally planned.
I’ll be painting the hull and topsides with 2-part Awlgrip this
spring and hopefully get most of the interior done by winter end.
Then I’ll start on the wiring.
My fuel tank was just forward of the engine as I think this was the
way the earlier BCC’s were configured. (Hull # 35) I believe the
newer ones are located further aft allowing much better access to the
bilge ahead of the engine. I’m going to replace the tanks with the
polyethene type. I have lots of pictures but I probably won’t make
them available until this spring. Is there an earsier way to clean up
the brightwork on the bronze portlights and fittings? I’ve done this
by hand polishing before but this will be a much bigger effort.
Lanny,
I built my BCC and put 1 3/4 in. by 5/16 ash strips on the overhead. It
looks great and much warmer than fiberglass. I glued sheets of cork that
comes from the local hardware store to add more insulation. I sealed the
wood with Thompson’s water sealer to keep it as light as possible. It is
great to look at lying in a bunk.
Wayne
BCC Odyssey
I have been a B.C.C. “CRAVER” for some time now and would love to have a half hull for my office. I do not know where to get one? Does anyone know where to get one, and about how much $$$$ will one cost for a B.C.C… (half hull)
Mackey Callahan
Hull #(TBD)
On Fri, 1 Dec 2000 19:25:58 Wayne Edney wrote:
Lanny,
I built my BCC and put 1 3/4 in. by 5/16 ash strips on the overhead. It
looks great and much warmer than fiberglass. I glued sheets of cork that
comes from the local hardware store to add more insulation. I sealed the
wood with Thompson’s water sealer to keep it as light as possible. It is
great to look at lying in a bunk.
Wayne
BCC Odyssey
----- Original Message -----
From: “Dick Tracy” <tristandecuna@hotbot.com >
To: <bcc@egroups.com >
Sent: Friday, December 01, 2000 11:36 PM
Subject: Re: [bcc] Interior paneling
Dear Everyone,
I have been a B.C.C. “CRAVER” for some time now and would love to
have a half hull for my office. I do not know where to get one? Does
anyone know where to get one, and about how much $$$$ will one cost for a
B.C.C… (half hull)
Mackey Callahan
Hull #(TBD)
On Fri, 1 Dec 2000 19:25:58 Wayne Edney wrote:
Lanny,
I built my BCC and put 1 3/4 in. by 5/16 ash strips on the overhead. It
looks great and much warmer than fiberglass. I glued sheets of cork that
comes from the local hardware store to add more insulation. I sealed the
wood with Thompson’s water sealer to keep it as light as possible. It is
great to look at lying in a bunk.
Wayne
BCC Odyssey
Don, That’s a lot of rebuilding. I’m curious as to
which boat it is/was and if it was in that bad of
shape or you are just mostly trying to ‘make it your
own’?
And Don. I trust you’re enjoying yourself.
I’ve often thought I’d like to do another BCC. Then
we got beat up pretty good in hurricane Georges in
'98 while in Puerto Rico. After a quick temp. fix up
we sailed down to Trinidad and replaced everything
outside, right down to the covering board, including
the wale strake.
Then rebuilt the galley while waiting for the freshly
cut teak to dry out. The engine. One thing kind of led
to another.
I really enjoyed the work and had a wonderful
covered shed next to the dock to set up my tools.
Well, fair weather to you both. And send up more
pics.
Stan and Barbara Roeder “Waxwing” hull #22 1977.
It sounds like we are at about the same spot in the
process, Lanny, except
I am working from a bare hull. You can see what
I’ve done so far at my website http://home.earthlink.net/~baggywrinkle
There will be some new photos up soon of my rudder
and some smaller
projects.
Keep in touch and we can compare notes
Regards
Don
----- Original Message -----
From: “Lanny E Luhmann” <lannyl9@idt.net >
To: <bcc@egroups.com >
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2000 3:06 PM
Subject: [bcc] Re: Interior paneling
I’m doing an extensive overhaul. In other words
EVERYTHING. It’s
basically like making a new BCC all over again
from a rough interior
stage. I’ve removed all the hardware on the
topsides including
hatches and portlights, removed the bowsprit and
rudder, stripped the
hull bottom coats and sanded the gel coat,
stripped all the painted
and varnished surfaces, taken apart most of the
interior. Removed all
the water, and fuel tanks. Stripping and sanding
the the bulwarks was
a really, really big job, about 80 hours. They
look so much better
cleaned up that I’m hesitant to paint them as I
originally planned.
I’ll be painting the hull and topsides with 2-part
Awlgrip this
spring and hopefully get most of the interior done
by winter end.
Then I’ll start on the wiring.
My fuel tank was just forward of the engine as I
think this was the
way the earlier BCC’s were configured. (Hull # 35)
I believe the
newer ones are located further aft allowing much
better access to the
bilge ahead of the engine. I’m going to replace
the tanks with the
polyethene type. I have lots of pictures but I
probably won’t make
them available until this spring. Is there an
earsier way to clean up
the brightwork on the bronze portlights and
fittings? I’ve done this
by hand polishing before but this will be a much
bigger effort.
