Does anyone know offhand the length of
the jib stay? This would be a total length,
including eyes and turnbuckle for a stay
without roller furling.
My stay broke and I need to replace it.
I don’t have an accurate length from the
broken parts.
Thanks,
Mark Gearhart
s/v Godspeed
|
Mark:
IDUNA's head stay length is 41' 6 3/8" pin-to-pin centers from the masthead to the cranse iron. IDUNA's spar is a Canadian Pacific Spar . This measurement was taken in July of this year when we built a new headstay and Schaeffer Furler. I suspect you have already measured the old stay. Where did the stay break???
Fair Winds,
Rod
|
Mark, this measurement will differ from boat to boat
because not every boat has the same mast, stepped to
the same exact spot or raked to the same angle. What’s
more is that different owners prefer different angles
on sprit. I would think that even the (Sam) Morse
Company produced boats may vary some.
I’d suggest buying a 40 foot length of wire useing a
swedge or Sta-lok at the top and using that to get the
length to the crans iron (less turnbuckle and lower
Sta-lok.
You could also use a steel tape measure with someone
up the mast for an eye to eye meassurement. Keep in
mind that the angle of both the mast and the sprit
could add/subtract considerably, however.
I strongly suggest the use of a Sta-lok on the lower
end for flexibility to shorten the stay if necessary.
I’m curious what happened to the old stay and why it
can’t be used for a measurement.
Stan (Waxwing)#22
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— In bcc@y…, Stan Roeder <waxwingers@y…> wrote:
I’m curious what happened to the old stay and why it
can’t be used for a measurement.
The foil for roller furler got damaged. The only way to
remove the old foil was to cut the stay, with some of the
damaged foil hiding the end of the stay. My best measurement
comes out at 40’ 7". This seems like a good number, and
matches Douglas’ length in posting 1030. Thanks Douglas.
You know, I’ve never been comfortable with my Harken MKII
roller furler. Sure, it works. But its my own opinion that
there are more serious scenarios waiting to happen beyond
just a bent foil. I did a close examination of Tallysn
and Seraffyn, and I’m going to put the roller furler in
storage and use the traditional method instead.
Mark Gearhart
s/v Godspeed
|
Mark:
Certainly, there is merit for hanked sails. We had hank sails on African Moon (http://home.att.net/~africanmoon/ and had installed a bonnet reef in the jib which worked great. Changing out the jib for a drifter was a snap. We used a longer tack pendent and hanked the drifter above the flaked jib. I like the idea of hanked sails but question the safety of working on a long bowsprit - too many training hours in chemical plant safety.
When we looked at IDUNA, our initial thought was to go with hanked sails but the more I reviewed the safety issue of working on the bowsprit, the more I favored roller furling. We installed a Schaeffer 2100 furler, as did Roger Olsen. I still have not quite figured out how I will fly a drifter because the drum is in the way - more "engineering." This is our first furling system, hence I have no experience to judge how well it works but I question how tight to make the jib stay and furling the sail as the wind increases.
It is my understanding, Larry Pardey was contemplating installing a T-track on top of the sprit similar to the English pilot cutters' jib arrangement. The English use a ring over the sprit instead of a T-track. The jib tack is attached to the ring, and the ring pulled out to the end of the sprit with a purchase. Once the ring is at the sprit's end, the jib is hoisted on its own wire. Does anyone know if the Pardey's installed the T-track.
Brian Toss likes the following furling systems: Schaeffer, Harkin, Furlex and Profurl, in that order.
You stated the furler was damaged. What type of damage and how did it occur?
Rod
S/V IDUNA
|
Good on ya, Mark.
I never liked the looks of the boat with a roller
furler but finally caved in after 18 years. I still
make the trip out to the end of the bowsprit but now
only when I feel like it.
Stan
— Mark Gearhart <mrgearha@yahoo.com > wrote:
— In bcc@y…, Stan Roeder <waxwingers@y…>
wrote:I’m curious what happened to the old stay and why
it
can’t be used for a measurement.The foil for roller furler got damaged. The only way
to
remove the old foil was to cut the stay, with some
of the
damaged foil hiding the end of the stay. My best
measurement
comes out at 40’ 7". This seems like a good number,
and
matches Douglas’ length in posting 1030. Thanks
Douglas.You know, I’ve never been comfortable with my Harken
MKII
roller furler. Sure, it works. But its my own
opinion that
there are more serious scenarios waiting to happen
beyond
just a bent foil. I did a close examination of
Tallysn
and Seraffyn, and I’m going to put the roller furler
in
storage and use the traditional method instead.Mark Gearhart
s/v GodspeedBRISTOL CHANNEL CUTTER OWNERS ASSOCIATION
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Stan,
Yes, I think the roller furler looks out place on a
vessel like the BCC, and I’ll be happy when the
traditional method on Godspeed is in place. One less
thing to break. The furler seems to be the second-most
troublesome part of my BCC.
Would you be willing to give the details of your jib
configuration? The hardware used for the stay, number
and type of fittings on the sail, downhaul arrangement,
and anything else that would assist in the switch? I’m
thinking also that I’d take the existing jib to a
sailmaker and have it modified for hanking. Do you
think this is a good idea versus a new jib?
Thanks Stan,
Mark Gearhart
s/v Godspeed
— In bcc@y…, Stan Roeder <waxwingers@y…> wrote:
Good on ya, Mark.
I never liked the looks of the boat with a roller
furler but finally caved in after 18 years. I still
make the trip out to the end of the bowsprit but now
only when I feel like it.Stan
— Mark Gearhart <mrgearha@y…> wrote:
— In bcc@y…, Stan Roeder <waxwingers@y…>
wrote:I’m curious what happened to the old stay and why
it
can’t be used for a measurement.The foil for roller furler got damaged. The only way
to
remove the old foil was to cut the stay, with some
of the
damaged foil hiding the end of the stay. My best
measurement
comes out at 40’ 7". This seems like a good number,
and
matches Douglas’ length in posting 1030. Thanks
Douglas.You know, I’ve never been comfortable with my Harken
MKII
roller furler. Sure, it works. But its my own
opinion that
there are more serious scenarios waiting to happen
beyond
just a bent foil. I did a close examination of
Tallysn
and Seraffyn, and I’m going to put the roller furler
in
storage and use the traditional method instead.Mark Gearhart
s/v GodspeedBRISTOL CHANNEL CUTTER OWNERS ASSOCIATION
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Mark, if the jib is in good shape it might be worth
having the luff changed over to hanks. Only a
sailmaker can evaluate the life left in the sail and
the costs to change it over versus a new headsail.
Also depending on the condition of the furler you
might get enough from selling it to pay for a new jib.
Because the Harken furler contains its own turnbuckle,
you’ll have to plan on installing a new one when you
replace the stay. I used 9/32 wire with a half-inch
turnbuckle. (They match all the other hardware and
most of the wire).
Be sure the turnbuckle has either the toggle type
ends(allowing movement in two directions) or put a
toggle between the turnbuckle and the crans iron
fitting. Of course you have to use a toggle at the top
of the stay as well. These outermost toggles is where
you take your eye-to-eye measurement figure from.
As for the downhaul, I ran a 5/16 line through a small
swivel block attached to the crans iron and secured it
to a bronze ring that rides on the stay. The jib is
hanked on the stay under the ring, so that pulling on
the ring-line drags all the hanks down to the sprit.
The inboard end of the downhaul can be dead-ended at
the bitts or lead back to the cockpit.
Let me say that this set up worked well in most
instances. Problems occure if you just let the jib
halyard go and do not bring in the slack of the
downhaul at the same time. Excess downhaul line has a
habit of looping itself around the sprit and tieing
itself into knots if left to dangle loose when the jib
is dropped. This sometimes means having two people
drop the jib or one person releasing the halyard and
taking in the downhaul at the same time. For this
reason, there was a time period when I did away with
the downhaul and just let the jib fall into the jib
net. This works easily when in normal winds and seas.
However, the downhaul was much appreciated when it was
rough and/or at night, when going out on the sprit to
tie down the jib got pretty exciting.
So I’ll say again, I like hank on sails best but I
enjoy the simplicity of roller furling. They’ve come a
long way in engineering since I first started sailing.
I think my Furl-x is the best going as far as I’m
concerned, although I’ve installed a lot of Harken
units and found them very reliable for the most part.
(I consider myself still in pretty good shape
physically[in my mind]but I’m no longer capable of the
gymnastics I was at 30, and I know it).
Mark, in you last post you said you considered your
furler as the ‘second’ most troublesome part of you
BCC. What’s the first?
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