Cool video. Too bad our bowsprits arent 100% round and off center… those are two nice features for this set up.
I’m going to round my bowsprit 
Ok, here is a price comparison I put together for a Dynex Rig and a 316 stainless rig. See attachment.
Gary, why do you want to round your sprit? Maybe at the forward end (where the ring will sit when you tension the luff), but why bother rounding the rest of it? Am I missing something?
Dan
I would have to have a huge ring for it to come all the way back to where I can reach it. Or else there is no sense in using the traveler. I need to refinish the sprit and rounding it is fairly easy. Plus I like the looks of a round spar. It will only be rounded back to just forward of the stem head. Still have to figure out what I will do with my new anchor rollers I just installed.
I had rounded the sprit on my Falmouth, with scallops at the part that went to octagon. It was pretty 
Gary,
While we’re having this great thread on BCC rigging, how about we discuss SS rigging size? SLM rigged our 1981 BCC with 1/4" except for the jibstay and backstay, which were 9/32". When I rerigged Shaula using Stalocks, I simplified it and did it all with 9/32". I was surprised to see that your BCC was rigged with 5/16". Have you worked out the extra weight due to 5/16" wire vs the SLM sizes?
Dan
Yeah good question Dan…
Speaking of rigs… just noticed this 29’ Lyle Hess design for sale on YW, check out the Nico Press on the stays’l stay! DOH!
Link Below:
http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1999/Custom-Taleisin-2056738/Malaysia
Ben at first I thought that was L&L’s boat.
Jeez, I haven’t had my coffee yet. It’s not L&L, but damn it sure is an exact copy. Maybe except for the blue windvane sail and the nicro.
Dan,
I believe you are correct. The orginal specs called for 1/4 wire with 9/32 on forestay, headstay and backstay. The big question in all this, was it spec at 304 or 316 stainless. 304 is stronger than 316. In fact about one size stronger. That is how I think my rig evolved. They went to 5/16 316 wire to have the same strength as the 9/32 304. Then decided to simplify, as you did, and put it all the way around.
I put to gether this spread sheet with weight comparisons for the different rigging sizes.
The spec sheet I have for the BCC rig calls for 316. I think this might be a later spec sheet done by Roger.
1’4" Shrouds, Whisker
9/32" Fore & Aft Stays
5/16" Boomkin
3/8" Bobstay
Gary, I think your spreadsheet is locked, so I sent a request to view vie Google.
Thanks Ben, I unlocked it…didn’t know I needed to do that. If Roger is around maybe he will give us some imput as to 316 vs 304 specs.
So I see a difference of 27lbs between all spliced 5/16" and the 1/4" + 9/32" w/ mechanicals… that’s overall weight correct? Where does the 60lbs aloft figure come into play… I’m confused I think.
Yes, thats overall weight for the wire with ends. I will go back and add the overall weight of the Dynex so you can see the difference. I think the Dynex comes in at about 12lbs overall. But that is just a guess. I will work it up and update the spreadsheet.
oh right, yeah. we’re comparing dynex to SS not 304 to 316 
SILLY ME!!
cool, looking fwd to those numbers. ~12lbs! hah… that’s amazin’.
Ok Ben I updated the spreadsheet. The total weight with 7mm and 9mm Dynex, plus a thimble at one end and a deadeye at the other comes in at 16.6 lbs.
Very cool… ~32lbs saved from standard 1/4 & 9/32 rig… Can’t wait to sail down there next fall and compare boats
I will have these on my blog, but here they are for anyone to browse.
First here is a cost comparison for cost between wire and Dynex Dux. Basically I went shopping on the web to find prices. So there may be some figures that are a Little high or low compared to what you may find. Keep in mind that this would be the equivalent of replacing your rigging wire and your turnbuckles. Although if you have your original stainless turnbuckles, it may be getting time to replace them for many of you. See pics of my turnbuckles on my blog. http://garyfelton.com/shanti
View the cost sheet here http://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?key=pnAWA2H0kIoFO8PE7WuW1ag
Second here is a weight comparison between 3 different wire setups for the BCC and a Dynex rig. http://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?key=rrB2h-i9udwK8lc5738wk0Q
enjoy.
A recent entry on the Morgan’s Cloud blog speaks to the carbon fiber mast option. The article also talks about an insurance option that may interest the group. The full article can be found at:
http://morganscloud.com/aacblog/2009/05/refit-tale-6carbon-fiber-masts-and.html
Quote
Let?s start with the myths:
If a carbon fiber mast gets struck by lightning it is toast, end of story.
If a carbon fiber mast gets struck by lightning, there is no way to tell if it has been damaged or not, so it must be junked.
These two statements are right up there with ?drop a penny in the bilge of an aluminum boat and it will burn through in a week?; in other words, rubbish.
Unquote
David Kent
While I don’t own a BCC, I arrived at this list looking for ideas on rigging a drifter on a longish bowsprit.
This is the first topic that caught my eye, I am, like Gary, working toward adding a traveler to the bowsprit.
I have a George Buehler Juna. 38 ft LOD, cold molded. She is slender and double ended with a short cabin such that when I recently rebuilt the interior I found that I can overlay the layout of the Pardey’s Taliesin and it would fit almost exactly. But no need for a boomkin and the bow overhang shortens the bowsprit to six feet.
Because of length and available slips where we live, I created a housing bowsprit that would work equally well on a BCC. In fact, the hardware for the butt end of the bowsprit was created at Port Townsend Foundry for the BCC to eliminate the through deck Samson Posts (and gain access below). Virtually all the bronze hardware on the boat is from the foundry, including poured sockets for the rigging.
I don’t have a web site, but you can see some pix on the Rocna anchor site that might also hold interest. The housing bowsprit makes it impossible to attach anchor rollers to the bowsprit, so we worked out what you will see:
http://www.rocna.com/kb/George_Buehler_Juna_Junosdautter
Mostly you will see the bowsprit in the housed position at the dock.
I just spent over two years in Port Townsend. While there I watched Brion Toss rig a 28 foot gaff rigger from the boatbuilding school with synthetic rope. PT Foundry created much of the hardware, including spreaders that had what look like bent tube halves on the ends to soften the turn. I can’t remember whether there were turnbuckles or dead eyes.
Brion once said that metal wire rope might turn out to be an anomaly in the history of rigging.
We have a Pathfinder roller furler as part of the headstay. It was designed 30 years ago by a fellow in California. It is mostly bronze and I bought it from him directly, as he was retiring (in his 90s). It works with hanked on sails and works just fine. PT Foundry now has the rights to build them.
But where this post started was about a traveler or other ways to attach a drifter to a long bowsprit, especially one without a pulpit and high lifelines.
I’ve asked Pete Langley at PT Foundry to modify an old bronze fishing ring I found used. While I have ordered from Classic Marine before, I forgot that they would have a traveler. I might just order than instead.
I am thinking about using it with a continuous line furler (Profurl, Facnor or Precourt). It would also make possible flying a small storm jib if needed to work with the stays’l. I do have some trepidations about the traveler being the hinge point aft of the kranze iron that could snap the bowsprit, especially flying a larger yankee or such. I have read about the Pardeys rigging a track version of the traveler. This would spread the load, perhaps, especially with backing plate at the outer end. I do wish I could find details of how they rigged the highfield lever part.
I did build the new bowsprit, too. I took most of a week to do it and includes the square to round with scallops. I didn’t know what I was doing, but used How to Build a Wooden Boat book and took my time working down to finished dimensions.
I also share with Gary a background as a photographer, doing everything from special effects for NCR to girls-in-bikini advertising for Bayliner. But right now that seems another lifetime away as we prepare for heading out on an open ended cruise.
Donal
S/V Te
Vancouver Island, BC
Donal:
It has been years since I heard mention of a Juno. I read George Buehler’s book, Buehler’s Backyard Boatbuilding years ago and always liked his Archimedes schooner and Olga ketch designs. His designs are very tradition and look rather salty but his building ideas were a little radical for me. Cold molding the boats makes a lot of sense. It has the properties of wood and the low upkeep of GRP.
By-the-by, your Juno looks nicely done and thanks for sharing.
Cheers,
Rod
BCC IDUNA