George Buehler Designs
Rod,
Actually, it is a Juna Junosdautter, which is a modified version of the timeless (it just acquired its third owner) Juno. Slightly narrower and longer with harder bilges and a taller rig.
When I viewed my message on line I saw that the full direct address on the Rocna site had been truncated. Anyway, for others, go to the knowledge base, then compatibility section and look for George Buehler.
She is 1 1/2 thick hull and we just sheathed it below the waterline with 3 layers of 18 oz biaxial and epoxy. Comfy and quiet. Like every other boat, she is too big outside and too small inside. Our last boat was a Flicka and we considered cruising her. Just not enough carrying capacity, but so sweet.
My wife and I looked at the BCCs, and have even been to the yard in Costa Mesa. But we dearly wanted a large double berth separate from the main saloon. The one I built is 5 foot wide at the shoulders with head near the chain locker.
There is a company near us on the Island building the 34 foot version BCC that we drool over. But we’re just gonna go cruising instead and see where that leads.
As regards to Gary’s rigging, I wrote to precourt a couple of years ago or more as we were planning a whole new rig. He wrote back that it just wasn’t ready for monohulls yet. But I think the deadeyes are brilliant, and he wrote me last week that not a single one of the fiber jib hanks has worn out, even on SS. I worry some about the hard spots at the spreader tips, something that a cat’s or tri’s beam renders unnecessary. Perhaps with discontinuous rope sections, much like old style English rigging, the abrasion could be eliminated at the expense of simplicity. Yet I think that SS would be safer for the bobstay, abrasion-wise, with docks and anchor chain threatening.
I’m very eager to see how Gary’s new rig turns out. We are definitely into new/old paradigm crossovers.
And for my primary question: how do BCC owners rig a drifter while using a roller furler on an extrusion such as Profurl? And how does it work?
donal
S/V Te
Vancouver Island, BC
Donal,
Using a second sail like a drifter or storm jib etc with a foil/furler is not an easy solution. You either have to change the sail on the foil, set it flying or just use your engine (ugh). That is one of the reasons I have stuck with hanked on sails for so long. But the sprit on the BCC is just a tad to long to work out on easily, particularly in heavy weather. Of course I don’t see other boats changing out their sails on their furlers on a regular basis either.
I was on a cruise in the Sea of Cortez with my engineless Falmouth Cutter years ago. I had a jib, tri-radial drifter and a cruising chute. It was a great combo for just about any wind situation. I remember all the “cruisers” grumbling about there was not enough wind to sail. A number of us were going further north, about a 20 mile sail. Of course the next morning the winds were light and everyone took off under power. Except me. I set my drifter and was off on admittedly slow sail. The beer was cold and the trip was easy. I arrived last by about only an hour and a half, and got to sail the whole way on a beautiful day. I like to sail, thats why I have a "sail"boat. The sail all the cruisers had on their RF were to heavy for the light air. And I didn’t see anyone change or set flying a drifter.
I’m lucky that I don’t have a “standard” furler yet. So the cost of dumping it will not prevent me from doing something a little different. Although it’s not really that different, just different from todays norm.
This is going to be another example of a “new/old paradigm crossovers”. I will be going back to using a bowsprit traveler (ring, this one http://www.classicmarine.co.uk/product.asp?product=321&cat=84&ph=cat&keywords=&recor=&SearchFor=&PT_ID= ). On this traveler I will be mounting a code zero continuous line furler (something like this but by Precourt http://www.facnor.com/uk/main.asp?url=http://www.facnor.com/uk/products/gennaker__code_0_furlers/default.asp&f=2,10,,14,a ). Also I will be have a torque luff rope sewn into the luff of my sails ( Yale and a few others make this http://www.yalecordage.com/html/pdf/pleasure_marine/high/10.pdf ). The torque rope helps the flying furler (code zero) work better. This will all be topped off with a 2/1 halyard purchase and a #16 halyard winch. I should be able to set the tension on the luff at somewhere around 1200lbs. This way the sail will perform well to weather.
The way this system will work is: I attach the tack to the traveler (ring) and the head to the halyard. Haul the tack out to the end of the sprit, then haul the halyard up tight. Go sailing. At the end of the day I can elect to leave it set and just furl the sail, or I can douse it. The sail will be all rolled up and easy to put in a sail bag. If while I am out sailing and the wind goes light, all I need to do is drop the sail or furl the sail and drop it. Attach the drifter in the same manner and continue to sail. At the end of the day I can just furl the drifter or drop it and stow. All of this from the relative safety of the deck. I think this system will give me the best of both worlds, namely hank/furler. oh ya, and when I get my new asymmetrical and can just furl that also instead of using a sock. 
I hope to have this system up and sailing in 4-6 weeks. At this point a lot depends on how fast the traveler gets here from the UK. This weekend I remove my sprit to round and refinsih her.
Gary,
We’re thinking alike, mostly. I never intended to change sails on the existing furler. I’d love to tack down the drifter forward of the headstay, but I should have thought that through earlier, before I build and rigged the new bowsprit. I can rig its tack to the kranze iron or to a line to a block as is done with asymetrics. But my intension now is to run the traveler, as you plan, with a second furler that should handle the drifter and possibly a storm jib while the yankee is furled.
There is one extrusion-based furler system that would let you drop the jib and run with a drifter and return to the jib later: Reefrite from New Zealand. It has a double track and a gate at the lower end and the sails are attached by slides that operate like jib hanks. So you while one sail is flying, you can load another, then drop the first and raise the second. Pretty slick. Plus the furler has a ratchet so the sail can’t unfurl unless you release a highfield lever.
I’ll check the Yale site for the rope for the sail. We’ve already made our drifter from a Sailrite kit, but we might have to modify it further for the furler.
I have talked to the furler people and sailmakers, and all just say that what you are proposing just won’t provide enough tension to go to weather. But then read what Donald Street has to say in one of his big books about the old generation free flying furlers that he used on (still?) Iolare. He makes a pretty good argument that it works just fine, if you can create enough tension.
My first choice was to do what you are proposing, but I got discouraged, listening to the “experts.” The designer of my boat suggests just rigging a tackle on the headstay (instead of a turnbuckle) and bring the whole headstay in, hank on the sail, and send it back out, tensioned by the tackle. I’ve communicated with one builder who did things that way, but said he just couldn’t get enough tension in the headstay to go well to windward. Like you, I am planning to use a two part tackle on the upper swivel and a Murray 005 winch to snug it down.
Stowing a rolled sail sure sounds easier than a big bag. I’ve spend quite a bit of time on race boats, often doing bow, and I am not impressed with the trouble of changing jib on an extrusion without a large crew.
Donal
S/V Te
Vancouver Island, BC
Donal,
When a sailmaker cuts a sail, they do so with a certain headstay tension in mind. I have a call into Doyle Sailmakers to find out what tension they use to configure the shape they cut into the luff of my jib. If I have to I will have my sails cut for a tension of 1200lbs. Then it should work just fine, maybe even better as I will have everything tuned to match.
Just found this article on headstay sag and luff hollow http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=23499&d=1242161790
Update: Well Doyle doesn’t throw headstay tension into their computer for calculating sag. I remember reading somewhere that this could and is done. Oh well so much for going by the numbers. Since I have a target luff tension of 1200 lbs I will set my present headstay at that level. Tomorrow I will go sailing with my sailmaker and we will take a look.
Ye haaa!
Went sailing last Sunday. I set my headstay tension at 1200lbs (my target for halyard tension for flying jib). Sail shape looked really good. We were tacking thru 90-95 degrees. I may still have a couple of inches taken out of the luff when I have the luff line sewn in.
Sailing was fabulous! We sailed up a protected channel with the wind blowing 20. yankee and reefed main. She worked here way up just like the stout little sailor she is. Sailed herself most of the time.
New gear should be here in a couple of weeks. I CAN’T WAIT
Three questions:
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Where you using hanked sails?
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How did you measure halyard tension?
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What was the boat speed over the water while beating?
Cheers,
BCC IDUNA
Hi Rod,
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Yes, I was using hanked sails. Not for long though.
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I didn’t measure halyard tension. I measured headstay tension. The headstay tension will be equivelent to the halyard tension once I get the new furler/flying jib setup rigged. It gets down to what the jib is hanging on to while sailing. I used my Loos guage.
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We averaged about 4.5 kts.
Cheers,
IDUNA Wrote:
Gary:
I know you are having fun doing this project but I
think I will stick with steel rigging. There is
no question Dynex has a high tensile rating. I
believe we used a Dynex towing line on the tugs -
very light, floats and it is strong.I suspect you have considered using 1/2 oval brass
under the bowsprit to prevent wear. That would be
my choice instead of copper sheeting. OH, my 1st
mate is very fussy about the condition of the
varnish under the sprit.I just looked at your photo site. You are good,
no, your work is excellent. I know you have good
equipment and nice glass but it is the 6" behind
the camera that creates art and your work is art.
Wow, I am impressed. I work in digital B&W trying
to create fine art prints. Let’s say I work in
digital B&W. I just purchased a used (370 images
shot) Sony A700 with Konica Minolta AF 17-35 f:2.8
lens, Tamron AF 28-75 f:2.8 lens and a Minolta
70-210 f:4 lens. Now to see if I can still take
photographs. My work does not compare to your
beautiful photographs. I just self-published a
book at . All the work was shot with a Sony F828
digicam.You may be interested in this site . You can
download a free copy of program to rasterize
images to produce artwork up to 20 ft X 20 ft. It
generates an Adobe Reader pdf file which can be
printed on a simple inkjet printer or sent to a
print shop, such as Kinko’s) for printing. I just
produced a 17" X 17" print (4 sheets of 8 1/2 X
11" paper). I suspect Benjiwood will jump on this
program and produce a full size poster of his
boat. Check out the gallery at Homokaasu.Enough photo geek talk. Sorry BCC forum users - a
little off topic.“Great Guns” I did a rough moment arm calculation
to estimate how much ballast savings 70 lb aloft
represents. My estimate is less than 600 lb. I
did not use calculus to determine the moment arm,
hence the number is probably more on the order of
300 lb.Cheers,
Rod
Rasterbator is great, I like it! It creates images from large dots. It is an interesting art technic, but when I need to print exact enlarged image, I use this poster printer.