nesting dinghy

system · January 8, 2002, 8:08pm

I have some time and a shop area available and am considering
building a nesting dinghy. I’ve run the gam-mot(sp)of hard dinghys
from six-foot on the cabin top to 12-feet towed behind. I don’t care
for inflatables.

I’m thinking of a nesting dink that will fit on the cabin top, over
the skylight and under the boom. I don’t like a dink on the foredeck
because of the awkwardness of anchoring and sail handling working
around one.

I’m thinking the cabin top could take a six by 4 1/2 foot area to
nest a dinghy into which ‘could’ result in a 10 to 11 foot length
overall when put together.

I’m a lousy designer and feel no desire to reinvent the wheel if
someone has already done it, however.

So if you have or know of someone who has already done it for a BCC
I’d appreciate a come back.

By the way, I’ve towed both aluminum and fiberglass 12-foot dinghys
from the Chesapeake to Aruba. They were no problem for the most part
on short hops (had to cut one loose off the Carolinas)but still a
drag on long passages.

Thanks,
Stan Roeder hull#22 Waxwing

system · January 9, 2002, 2:40pm

Greetings stan and all,
This is Russ. Previous owner of BCC
#93. Still lurking here I have some feedback on
dinghies based on our experience.
We decided that an inflatable was not practical for us
as well. Although we did carry an 8 foot Avon in the
lazarette. We rarely used. And hated inflating and
deflating every time we wanted to dive. We found an
old Mongomery pram, I think about 71/2 ft. that we
fixed up and used awhile. I made temporary chocks for
the cabin top and it rode well there. But we could
not stand the loss of visibility. And in the long run
the pram had very bad carrying capacity. We are not
large people. But it could hardly carry the two of us
and a 2 hp. motor safely. One person rowing or
sailing it was ok. We got rid of it and bought a Sam
Morse Cherub before going cruising.
We absolutely loved the way it rode over the scuttle
hatch. Nearly flush to the deck. Sail handeling was
never a problem. The staysail tacked over it very
smoothly. And when anchoring I simply lifted it on
edge with one hand and leaned it against the lifeline.
Where it rested until we deployed it with the
staysail halyard.
It also gave a comfortable place to sit when working
the mast in rough conditions.
You could still walk around it to work the sprit
without concern.
The carrying capacity of this dink is quite amazing.
We could both ride seated for and aft with a 2hp Honda
and as many as 5 full jerry cans with room for more
and we have done this once in a 3ft. chop and 20 kt.
winds in the Turks and Caicos. And always felt safe
and comfortable.
The dink sails great and rows decent only. In over 6k
sea miles with this dink on board. I would do it no
other way.
Only draw back is that we liked to snorkle and fish
alott. And anchoring out in deep water and trying to
get back into the boat is nearly impossible.
Well, one more drawback Big $$$$. For a small dink.
But we still do not regret it.
The Fatty knees was an option and is similar to the
Cherub but could not ride on the bow with the center
board trunk in the way. And I am not sure it is even
beamy and deep enough to fit over the scuttle hatch.

As I have built several small boats over the years,
we thought often of making a nesting dinghy. But I
could not find or create a design that I was
comfortable with.
If I had to do it over again. I would get a hull laid
up (I guess Crystaliner is doing the layup) and finish
it out myself. We were not very pleased with their
finishing job. They even used galvenized fasteners on
the gunnals and even under the glass in some places.
And naturally we had rust stains. And their jellcote
had 100% blisters below the waterline after only 6
mos.( they would not warranty it) We ground it off in
Trini. and epoxyed it. Worked great.
Hope this helps…
Russ…

— waxwingers <waxwingers@yahoo.com > wrote:

I have some time and a shop area available and am
considering
building a nesting dinghy. I’ve run the
gam-mot(sp)of hard dinghys
from six-foot on the cabin top to 12-feet towed
behind. I don’t care
for inflatables.

I’m thinking of a nesting dink that will fit on the
cabin top, over
the skylight and under the boom. I don’t like a dink
on the foredeck
because of the awkwardness of anchoring and sail
handling working
around one.

I’m thinking the cabin top could take a six by 4 1/2
foot area to
nest a dinghy into which ‘could’ result in a 10 to
11 foot length
overall when put together.

I’m a lousy designer and feel no desire to reinvent
the wheel if
someone has already done it, however.

So if you have or know of someone who has already
done it for a BCC
I’d appreciate a come back.

By the way, I’ve towed both aluminum and fiberglass
12-foot dinghys
from the Chesapeake to Aruba. They were no problem
for the most part
on short hops (had to cut one loose off the
Carolinas)but still a
drag on long passages.

Thanks,
Stan Roeder hull#22 Waxwing

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system · January 9, 2002, 6:21pm

Russ

I am interested in your comments regarding the Cherub built by the Sam Morse
Company. Is that the dinghy you are referring to with your comments
regarding the poor finishing job and the blisters?

I currently have a RIB inflatable but find it impossible to carry on board,
therefore I’m contemplating either a Cherub or Fatty Knees. It didn’t occur
to me that the Fatty Knees will not fit over the scuttle hatch, so from a
storage point of view the Cherub sounds preferable. However, I am concerned
about the quality of finish you’ve described.

-----Original Message-----
From: Russ Burchfield [mailto:landlubber77586@yahoo.com ]
Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 6:41 AM
To: bcc@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bcc] nesting dinghy

Greetings stan and all,
This is Russ. Previous owner of BCC
#93. Still lurking here I have some feedback on
dinghies based on our experience.
We decided that an inflatable was not practical for us
as well. Although we did carry an 8 foot Avon in the
lazarette. We rarely used. And hated inflating and
deflating every time we wanted to dive. We found an
old Mongomery pram, I think about 71/2 ft. that we
fixed up and used awhile. I made temporary chocks for
the cabin top and it rode well there. But we could
not stand the loss of visibility. And in the long run
the pram had very bad carrying capacity. We are not
large people. But it could hardly carry the two of us
and a 2 hp. motor safely. One person rowing or
sailing it was ok. We got rid of it and bought a Sam
Morse Cherub before going cruising.
We absolutely loved the way it rode over the scuttle
hatch. Nearly flush to the deck. Sail handeling was
never a problem. The staysail tacked over it very
smoothly. And when anchoring I simply lifted it on
edge with one hand and leaned it against the lifeline.
Where it rested until we deployed it with the
staysail halyard.
It also gave a comfortable place to sit when working
the mast in rough conditions.
You could still walk around it to work the sprit
without concern.
The carrying capacity of this dink is quite amazing.
We could both ride seated for and aft with a 2hp Honda
and as many as 5 full jerry cans with room for more
and we have done this once in a 3ft. chop and 20 kt.
winds in the Turks and Caicos. And always felt safe
and comfortable.
The dink sails great and rows decent only. In over 6k
sea miles with this dink on board. I would do it no
other way.
Only draw back is that we liked to snorkle and fish
alott. And anchoring out in deep water and trying to
get back into the boat is nearly impossible.
Well, one more drawback Big $$$$. For a small dink.
But we still do not regret it.
The Fatty knees was an option and is similar to the
Cherub but could not ride on the bow with the center
board trunk in the way. And I am not sure it is even
beamy and deep enough to fit over the scuttle hatch.

As I have built several small boats over the years,
we thought often of making a nesting dinghy. But I
could not find or create a design that I was
comfortable with.
If I had to do it over again. I would get a hull laid
up (I guess Crystaliner is doing the layup) and finish
it out myself. We were not very pleased with their
finishing job. They even used galvenized fasteners on
the gunnals and even under the glass in some places.
And naturally we had rust stains. And their jellcote
had 100% blisters below the waterline after only 6
mos.( they would not warranty it) We ground it off in
Trini. and epoxyed it. Worked great.
Hope this helps…
Russ…

— waxwingers <waxwingers@yahoo.com > wrote:

I have some time and a shop area available and am
considering
building a nesting dinghy. I’ve run the
gam-mot(sp)of hard dinghys
from six-foot on the cabin top to 12-feet towed
behind. I don’t care
for inflatables.

I’m thinking of a nesting dink that will fit on the
cabin top, over
the skylight and under the boom. I don’t like a dink
on the foredeck
because of the awkwardness of anchoring and sail
handling working
around one.

I’m thinking the cabin top could take a six by 4 1/2
foot area to
nest a dinghy into which ‘could’ result in a 10 to
11 foot length
overall when put together.

I’m a lousy designer and feel no desire to reinvent
the wheel if
someone has already done it, however.

So if you have or know of someone who has already
done it for a BCC
I’d appreciate a come back.

By the way, I’ve towed both aluminum and fiberglass
12-foot dinghys
from the Chesapeake to Aruba. They were no problem
for the most part
on short hops (had to cut one loose off the
Carolinas)but still a
drag on long passages.

Thanks,
Stan Roeder hull#22 Waxwing

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system · January 9, 2002, 9:06pm

Hi Gary,
Yea that is the Sam Morse dink.
Now that I think of it. I have some more comments.
Good and not so good. And things to watch out for.
Now, out of the box the dink looks just superb! In
every respect. But it is just that 16mos. of regular
use in the E. Carib. has brought some deficiencies to
the surface.
First let me say that this is a great sailing dink.
We think it is more fun sailing with a reef in and
15-18 kts of wind than less. I even hiked out on the
rail a couple times.
Don’t let anyone tell you anything bad about a
lee-board. This boat sailed great on both tacks
without switching the board.
The lee-board bracket is a very robust aluminum
casting. But the mounting rod is stainless, about a
foot long X 1/2 in. dia. and threaded into the bottom
of the casting. Our mounting rod broke at the
termination of the thread. This is a natural weak
point. They would be better off just inserting the non
threaded rod into a blind hole in the base of the
casting and cross pinning it or set screwing to retain
it. Which is how I repaired it. No further failures
in that area.
The three seats offer many seating options. We even
drilled more positioning holes to suite our purposes.
But the seats themselves are gelcote over plywood. It
took only a month or so of sitting on them before the
jelcote cracked all over from the flexing of the seat,
and peeled off in large chunks. Jelcote is brittle
without reinforcing glass or other cloth.
While I am thinking about it… we made a long narrow
canvas bag to carry the entire sailing rig,
seats,rudder and leeboard. And it resided either on
the side deck or next to the hand rail on the cabin
top. Worked great.
As we intended this to be a work boat/dink and not a
showpiece, we ordered it with the cloth covered foam
rails. This worked great in not banging up the
topsides of the mothership and other peoples boats.
when bring it along side and raising on and off deck.
Not to mention more bright work to worry about.
We do not believe that Sam Morse would condone the use
of non stainless fasteners in any of their products.
We just don’t know what happened here.
The 2hp. 4 stroke Honda we primarily used worked just
great and pushed the dink at 5-6kts. Which worked
just fine for us. I think a 3hp. is max. and a 5hp
would likely flip it over.
If you order one you should get an epoxy barrier coat
under the jelcote. Or some other resin system in the
layup.
I think that all of the above is just the querks of a
new but otherwise superb product.
I have talked to Rojer a long time ago about this. I
hope that the feedback was constructive as intended.
Let me know if you have any more questions.
Regards,
Russ…

— Gary Mynett <garymynett@mackaymynett.com > wrote:

Russ

I am interested in your comments regarding the
Cherub built by the Sam Morse
Company. Is that the dinghy you are referring to
with your comments
regarding the poor finishing job and the blisters?

I currently have a RIB inflatable but find it
impossible to carry on board,
therefore I’m contemplating either a Cherub or Fatty
Knees. It didn’t occur
to me that the Fatty Knees will not fit over the
scuttle hatch, so from a
storage point of view the Cherub sounds preferable.
However, I am concerned
about the quality of finish you’ve described.

-----Original Message-----
From: Russ Burchfield
[mailto:landlubber77586@yahoo.com ]
Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 6:41 AM
To: bcc@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bcc] nesting dinghy

Greetings stan and all,
This is Russ. Previous owner of BCC
#93. Still lurking here I have some feedback on
dinghies based on our experience.
We decided that an inflatable was not practical for
us
as well. Although we did carry an 8 foot Avon in
the
lazarette. We rarely used. And hated inflating and
deflating every time we wanted to dive. We found an
old Mongomery pram, I think about 71/2 ft. that we
fixed up and used awhile. I made temporary chocks
for
the cabin top and it rode well there. But we could
not stand the loss of visibility. And in the long
run
the pram had very bad carrying capacity. We are not
large people. But it could hardly carry the two of
us
and a 2 hp. motor safely. One person rowing or
sailing it was ok. We got rid of it and bought a
Sam
Morse Cherub before going cruising.
We absolutely loved the way it rode over the scuttle
hatch. Nearly flush to the deck. Sail handeling
was
never a problem. The staysail tacked over it very
smoothly. And when anchoring I simply lifted it on
edge with one hand and leaned it against the
lifeline.
Where it rested until we deployed it with the
staysail halyard.
It also gave a comfortable place to sit when working
the mast in rough conditions.
You could still walk around it to work the sprit
without concern.
The carrying capacity of this dink is quite amazing.
We could both ride seated for and aft with a 2hp
Honda
and as many as 5 full jerry cans with room for more
and we have done this once in a 3ft. chop and 20 kt.
winds in the Turks and Caicos. And always felt safe
and comfortable.
The dink sails great and rows decent only. In over
6k
sea miles with this dink on board. I would do it no
other way.
Only draw back is that we liked to snorkle and fish
alott. And anchoring out in deep water and trying
to
get back into the boat is nearly impossible.
Well, one more drawback Big $$$$. For a small dink.
But we still do not regret it.
The Fatty knees was an option and is similar to the
Cherub but could not ride on the bow with the center
board trunk in the way. And I am not sure it is
even
beamy and deep enough to fit over the scuttle hatch.

As I have built several small boats over the years,
we thought often of making a nesting dinghy. But I
could not find or create a design that I was
comfortable with.
If I had to do it over again. I would get a hull
laid
up (I guess Crystaliner is doing the layup) and
finish
it out myself. We were not very pleased with their
finishing job. They even used galvenized fasteners
on
the gunnals and even under the glass in some places.
And naturally we had rust stains. And their
jellcote
had 100% blisters below the waterline after only 6
mos.( they would not warranty it) We ground it off
in
Trini. and epoxyed it. Worked great.
Hope this helps…
Russ…

— waxwingers <waxwingers@yahoo.com > wrote:

I have some time and a shop area available and am
considering
building a nesting dinghy. I’ve run the
gam-mot(sp)of hard dinghys
from six-foot on the cabin top to 12-feet towed
behind. I don’t care
for inflatables.

I’m thinking of a nesting dink that will fit on
the
cabin top, over
the skylight and under the boom. I don’t like a
dink
on the foredeck
because of the awkwardness of anchoring and sail
handling working
around one.

I’m thinking the cabin top could take a six by 4
1/2
foot area to
nest a dinghy into which ‘could’ result in a 10 to
11 foot length
overall when put together.

I’m a lousy designer and feel no desire to
reinvent
the wheel if
someone has already done it, however.

So if you have or know of someone who has already
done it for a BCC
I’d appreciate a come back.

By the way, I’ve towed both aluminum and
fiberglass
12-foot dinghys
from the Chesapeake to Aruba. They were no problem
for the most part
on short hops (had to cut one loose off the
Carolinas)but still a
drag on long passages.

Thanks,
Stan Roeder hull#22 Waxwing

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system · January 10, 2002, 9:21pm

     OHH! Stop!, )", I have never “set” foot up on any sailing or other craft. Well, maybe painting, but I have been the length/breath of the Internet, just looking/dreaming, someday picture this, Win the Lottery, which boat to buy?



   It, would be a BCC if only I could. See, I live in a landlocked place. Out of all the Island Packet’s, cum Cabbo’s, I still come back in here. I’m never ever gonna get on “any” boat. I chose here to voyeur.

      Proof? Why endure the Group/YAHOO shift? Yeah been here even back to, have seen “Thread Two or Four,” something about “Tanbark”?

Point is, why I am here? Matte might just have been wrong. It’s not the "Builder/Cheerleaders, maybe not even the product, [Which I am certain I’ll never see]. It’s the Integrity of the Builder’s.

You people have demonstrated Integrity ad hoc so relax, don’t be so quick to apologize. The Things you respond to seem “minor” in context.

Just saying “Another’s Shop” Keep On top. Yours seems just fine. Cherub, will work out just fine.

system · January 10, 2002, 9:37pm

Mr. Oya,
Please send details as to the continued production, in whatever form, of the
Cherub to include pricing and options in the kit (if that is the course you
take.)
Thanks,
Bruce Walters

Sumio · January 10, 2002, 11:32pm

Russ and the BCC group,

I am sorry you have found some problems with the Cherub. I have discussed
this with Roger Olson and our combined response is the following:

Our intention from the beginning was to build a quality dinghy that would
set over the scuttle hatch on the BCC. The hull is laid up by Crystaliner
and they assured us that is should not have any blisters. Lets face it,
they were wrong. For this I apologize and am willing to reinforce any
reasonable costs you incurred. In the future all our Cherubs, like the BCC
and FC will have a vinylester gel coat below the water line to prevent any
possibility of osmosis.

There were never any galvanized fasteners used in the Cherub. We use only
stainless steel. We do not even have any galvanized screws in our factory.
Now, I must also admit the stainless we order from West Marine does rust
because it is 316. We cannot use bronze to screw into the fiberglass, it
will break. If you have any screws left over that you suspect are
galvanized, I would certainly like to see them.

Your comment about the stainless steel leeboard shaft is a good one. A half
inch shaft threaded is reduced to about 3/8" which is not strong enough to
take the loads on the leeboard. You are the first one who has complained
about this problem but it certainly make sense and all future leeboards will
be pinned.

We have always suspected the gelcoated seat may be a problem. Crystaliner
assured us that it would be ok. Since the Cherub is relatively new, it has
not had time for the true test. However, we certainly do not question what
you say. You are not the first to have this problem. The only solution is
paint or teak and teak is just too expensive to make standard. We looked
into a solid plastic material but it, like other alternative make the price
outrageous and/or ugly. We are open to suggestions.

The cost to build this dinghy is so high that we have discontinued it
because we cannot build it and make a profit. We will gladly build a “kit”
boat or just the hull. However, I suggest we build in the floatation in the
floor. The problem is we must pay our men a reasonable salary and it takes
many man hours to produce a finished boat.

I want the group to understand that we do the best we can with some cost
restraints. We do not and will not cut corners like using galvanized
screws. We also admit that this is a new product to serve a special
purpose. It is not possible to build it like we would like and still sell
it at the same price. I suggest you check the quality of the Fatty Knees
and its price.

Roger had inflatable collars made for his Cherub that snap into eye straps
that make it easy to install and remove. It makes it excellent for climbing
in or out from the water. Perhaps you would like to ask him at
roger.olson@att.net

We are here to provide any assistance we can to our owners and I personally
promise to keep the high standards of the past. If anyone has any
complaints about any of our products, I want to know. Our objective is and
has always been quality. Please feel free to email or call me with any
suggestions. Our BCC is where it is now by input from its owners. We have
made many improvement but all these cost money. As you know, the price is
now higher than any of us would have expected. It is either this or close
the factory.

I need the suggestions from the owners. If you do not give me suggestions
then I presume everything is ok.

Sumio Oya

-----Original Message-----
From: Russ Burchfield [mailto:landlubber77586@yahoo.com ]
Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 1:07 PM
To: bcc@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [bcc] nesting dinghy

Hi Gary,
Yea that is the Sam Morse dink.
Now that I think of it. I have some more comments.
Good and not so good. And things to watch out for.
Now, out of the box the dink looks just superb! In
every respect. But it is just that 16mos. of regular
use in the E. Carib. has brought some deficiencies to
the surface.
First let me say that this is a great sailing dink.
We think it is more fun sailing with a reef in and
15-18 kts of wind than less. I even hiked out on the
rail a couple times.
Don’t let anyone tell you anything bad about a
lee-board. This boat sailed great on both tacks
without switching the board.
The lee-board bracket is a very robust aluminum
casting. But the mounting rod is stainless, about a
foot long X 1/2 in. dia. and threaded into the bottom
of the casting. Our mounting rod broke at the
termination of the thread. This is a natural weak
point. They would be better off just inserting the non
threaded rod into a blind hole in the base of the
casting and cross pinning it or set screwing to retain
it. Which is how I repaired it. No further failures
in that area.
The three seats offer many seating options. We even
drilled more positioning holes to suite our purposes.
But the seats themselves are gelcote over plywood. It
took only a month or so of sitting on them before the
jelcote cracked all over from the flexing of the seat,
and peeled off in large chunks. Jelcote is brittle
without reinforcing glass or other cloth.
While I am thinking about it… we made a long narrow
canvas bag to carry the entire sailing rig,
seats,rudder and leeboard. And it resided either on
the side deck or next to the hand rail on the cabin
top. Worked great.
As we intended this to be a work boat/dink and not a
showpiece, we ordered it with the cloth covered foam
rails. This worked great in not banging up the
topsides of the mothership and other peoples boats.
when bring it along side and raising on and off deck.
Not to mention more bright work to worry about.
We do not believe that Sam Morse would condone the use
of non stainless fasteners in any of their products.
We just don’t know what happened here.
The 2hp. 4 stroke Honda we primarily used worked just
great and pushed the dink at 5-6kts. Which worked
just fine for us. I think a 3hp. is max. and a 5hp
would likely flip it over.
If you order one you should get an epoxy barrier coat
under the jelcote. Or some other resin system in the
layup.
I think that all of the above is just the querks of a
new but otherwise superb product.
I have talked to Rojer a long time ago about this. I
hope that the feedback was constructive as intended.
Let me know if you have any more questions.
Regards,
Russ…

system · January 11, 2002, 12:43pm

Sumio,
That was a beautifully stated declaration of corporate purpose. Few
boatbuilders strive to do more than talk about their quality. We are
fortunate indeed to have someone running the Sam L morse Company who cares
so much.
Warmest Regards,
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: “Roger Olson & Sumio Oya” <info@samlmorse.com >
To: <bcc@yahoogroups.com >
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2002 6:32 PM
Subject: RE: [bcc] nesting dinghy

Russ and the BCC group,

I am sorry you have found some problems with the Cherub. I have discussed
this with Roger Olson and our combined response is the following:

Our intention from the beginning was to build a quality dinghy that would
set over the scuttle hatch on the BCC. The hull is laid up by Crystaliner
and they assured us that is should not have any blisters. Lets face it,
they were wrong. For this I apologize and am willing to reinforce any
reasonable costs you incurred. In the future all our Cherubs, like the
BCC
and FC will have a vinylester gel coat below the water line to prevent any
possibility of osmosis.

There were never any galvanized fasteners used in the Cherub. We use only
stainless steel. We do not even have any galvanized screws in our
factory.
Now, I must also admit the stainless we order from West Marine does rust
because it is 316. We cannot use bronze to screw into the fiberglass, it
will break. If you have any screws left over that you suspect are
galvanized, I would certainly like to see them.

Your comment about the stainless steel leeboard shaft is a good one. A
half
inch shaft threaded is reduced to about 3/8" which is not strong enough to
take the loads on the leeboard. You are the first one who has complained
about this problem but it certainly make sense and all future leeboards
will
be pinned.

We have always suspected the gelcoated seat may be a problem. Crystaliner
assured us that it would be ok. Since the Cherub is relatively new, it
has
not had time for the true test. However, we certainly do not question
what
you say. You are not the first to have this problem. The only solution
is
paint or teak and teak is just too expensive to make standard. We looked
into a solid plastic material but it, like other alternative make the
price
outrageous and/or ugly. We are open to suggestions.

The cost to build this dinghy is so high that we have discontinued it
because we cannot build it and make a profit. We will gladly build a
“kit”
boat or just the hull. However, I suggest we build in the floatation in
the
floor. The problem is we must pay our men a reasonable salary and it
takes
many man hours to produce a finished boat.

I want the group to understand that we do the best we can with some cost
restraints. We do not and will not cut corners like using galvanized
screws. We also admit that this is a new product to serve a special
purpose. It is not possible to build it like we would like and still sell
it at the same price. I suggest you check the quality of the Fatty Knees
and its price.

Roger had inflatable collars made for his Cherub that snap into eye straps
that make it easy to install and remove. It makes it excellent for
climbing
in or out from the water. Perhaps you would like to ask him at
roger.olson@att.net

We are here to provide any assistance we can to our owners and I
personally
promise to keep the high standards of the past. If anyone has any
complaints about any of our products, I want to know. Our objective is
and
has always been quality. Please feel free to email or call me with any
suggestions. Our BCC is where it is now by input from its owners. We
have
made many improvement but all these cost money. As you know, the price is
now higher than any of us would have expected. It is either this or close
the factory.

I need the suggestions from the owners. If you do not give me suggestions
then I presume everything is ok.

Sumio Oya

-----Original Message-----
From: Russ Burchfield [mailto:landlubber77586@yahoo.com ]
Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 1:07 PM
To: bcc@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [bcc] nesting dinghy

Hi Gary,
Yea that is the Sam Morse dink.
Now that I think of it. I have some more comments.
Good and not so good. And things to watch out for.
Now, out of the box the dink looks just superb! In
every respect. But it is just that 16mos. of regular
use in the E. Carib. has brought some deficiencies to
the surface.
First let me say that this is a great sailing dink.
We think it is more fun sailing with a reef in and
15-18 kts of wind than less. I even hiked out on the
rail a couple times.
Don’t let anyone tell you anything bad about a
lee-board. This boat sailed great on both tacks
without switching the board.
The lee-board bracket is a very robust aluminum
casting. But the mounting rod is stainless, about a
foot long X 1/2 in. dia. and threaded into the bottom
of the casting. Our mounting rod broke at the
termination of the thread. This is a natural weak
point. They would be better off just inserting the non
threaded rod into a blind hole in the base of the
casting and cross pinning it or set screwing to retain
it. Which is how I repaired it. No further failures
in that area.
The three seats offer many seating options. We even
drilled more positioning holes to suite our purposes.
But the seats themselves are gelcote over plywood. It
took only a month or so of sitting on them before the
jelcote cracked all over from the flexing of the seat,
and peeled off in large chunks. Jelcote is brittle
without reinforcing glass or other cloth.
While I am thinking about it… we made a long narrow
canvas bag to carry the entire sailing rig,
seats,rudder and leeboard. And it resided either on
the side deck or next to the hand rail on the cabin
top. Worked great.
As we intended this to be a work boat/dink and not a
showpiece, we ordered it with the cloth covered foam
rails. This worked great in not banging up the
topsides of the mothership and other peoples boats.
when bring it along side and raising on and off deck.
Not to mention more bright work to worry about.
We do not believe that Sam Morse would condone the use
of non stainless fasteners in any of their products.
We just don’t know what happened here.
The 2hp. 4 stroke Honda we primarily used worked just
great and pushed the dink at 5-6kts. Which worked
just fine for us. I think a 3hp. is max. and a 5hp
would likely flip it over.
If you order one you should get an epoxy barrier coat
under the jelcote. Or some other resin system in the
layup.
I think that all of the above is just the querks of a
new but otherwise superb product.
I have talked to Rojer a long time ago about this. I
hope that the feedback was constructive as intended.
Let me know if you have any more questions.
Regards,
Russ…

BRISTOL CHANNEL CUTTER OWNERS ASSOCIATION
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system · January 11, 2002, 7:05pm

I must say that Sumio’s and Roger’s response to the quality concerns over
the Cherub are very encouraging. What is not encouraging however is the
statement that the Cherub has been discontinued because of the high cost of
building it.

Please clarify, Sumio. Is it still possible to acquire a completed Cherub?
Or will you sell the Cherub only in kit form?

I have seriously considered acquiring a Fatty Knees but have now come to the
conclusion that the Cherub is preferable. Hopefully it is still a viable
option!

-----Original Message-----
From: Roger Olson & Sumio Oya [mailto:info@samlmorse.com ]
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2002 3:33 PM
To: bcc@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [bcc] nesting dinghy
Importance: High