portlights

anyone removed just the glass from the portlights? if so, any tips for removal you would like to share?

Go to the search tab and use “portlights” as your expression. Make sure to search on all dates.

This topic has ben discussed thoroughly in the past!

i did a search and came up empty. looks like i neglected to select all dates.

thanks john

I removed the glass in one portlight to replace the gasket. The trick is to remove the lock ring that holds the glass in the portlight without breaking the glass. Following is these steps:

  1. Remove the glass and its frame from the portlight.

  2. Squirted light oil (or PB Blaster) between the lock ring and the threaded portlight frame,

  3. Allowed the oil to soak into the threads overnight,

  4. Inserted a nail into one of the holes in the lock ring (A pin spanner is the proper tool to remove the locking ring)

  5. Placed the head of a pin punch at an angle to the nail in the lock ring,

  6. Gently tap the head of the pin punch with a hammer to free up the lock ring,

  7. If the lock ring does not move, apply more oil to the threads and allow it to soak into the thread, (It may be necessary to carefully tap the outside of the frame with a hard mallet to help loosen any corrosion by-products or salt between the lock ring and frame.)

  8. Repeat step 5 until the locking ring is free,

  9. Insert another nail into the other hole in the lock ring and thread the lock ring out of the frame,

  10. Clean the old gasket and oil off the metal,

  11. Procure a flat sheet of rubber (Buna-N) as thick as the old rubber gasket (mcmaster.com),

  12. Cut a rubber circle from the rubber sheet using the portlight glass as a template (razor knife),

  13. Drop the rubber circle into the portlight frame, followed by the glass and lock ring,

  14. Ensure the rubber circle lies flat against the glass. Snug up the lock ring (not too tight),

  15. Turn the portlight over (outside facing up). With a new blade, use the portlight frame as a guide, cut the center of the rubber circle out. Place just enough pressure on the knife to cut the rubber but not scratch the glass. It may take more than one pass to cut the center of the rubber circle out. You now have a gasket.

  16. Disassemble the portlight,

  17. Lightly coat the threads in the frame with lanolin and assemble the portlight (anhydrous lanolin or Lanocoat is best but grease will work),

  18. Place a nail in the hole in the locking ring. With a pin punch and hammer, gently tighten the lock ring,

  19. Clean the portlight glass.

  20. Place the portlight frame face down on a newspaper or paper towel,

  21. Pour water onto the glass, up to the edge of the frame,

  22. Check the paper in the morning to see if the portlight leaked, If it did, tighten the lock ring and repeat this step.

If you break the glass, have a local glass company cut a new glass from safety glass.

This procedure worked for me. The portlights in IDUNA are not ABI portlights. They were cast in Canada, as was all the fittings and hardware on our Canadian built BCC.

Rod
BCC IDUNA

thanks rod,

I used the procedure suggested by Rod on my ABI portholes and it worked just fine.

Gary
Dioscouri #64

YEA, that’s great. It worked for me, is easy to do and very cost effective.

Did you take photos? I regret when I replaced the gasket between the glass and portlight frame I did not snap a few pics.

No, unfortunately, I did not take photos either.

Gary
Dioscouri #64

i’m working on the portlights. all the glass is out.i had good luck with the locking rings. after a 24 hour soak in pb blaster. i dropped in the wrong size of a couple of drill bits and used a block of wood to turn the rings. no problem there.

the portlights are all out. no problems with the locking rings. i hit them with pb blaster and soaked overnight. i dropped in the wrong end of a couple of drill bits and turned the ring with a block of wood. worked like a charm. i am searching for new tempered glass, no luck with local shop yet and a few replacement parts. that’s gonna be a challenge the fact the the portlights were abi and now defunct.

the portlights are all out. no problems with the locking rings. i hit them with pb blaster and soaked overnight. i dropped in the wrong end of a couple of drill bits and turned the ring with a block of wood. worked like a charm. i am searching for new tempered glass, no luck with local shop yet and a few replacement parts. that’s gonna be a challenge the fact the the portlights were abi and now defunct.

i removed all the portlights and glass panes. an overnight soak in pb blaster and i dropped in the wrong end of a couple of drill bits and turned the locking ring with a block of wood. no problem.

i tried to attach a photo, but received a message the file was too big. i was attaching a photo from my i photo file. i’m new to the world of mac, anything i can do to attach sucessfully?

Send the photo from your iPhone in a smaller file size - i.e. medium file on
the iphone.

On Thu, Nov 18, 2010 at 7:14 AM, BCC Forums bccforums@samlmorse.com wrote:

rod,

i purchased gaskets from sailboat stuff for my portlights. the large gaskets are fine.the smaller gaskets do not fit. per your suggestion, i’ll make my own. is buna rubber neoprene?

thanks in advance for taking the time to reply.

Jo Anne:

Buna-N square O-ring gasket material is readily available at McMaster.com. Must cities have gasket supply stores. Measure your old casket material and the width and depth of the slot the gasket fits before purchasing.

When we made our own gaskets, our local gasket store, made the square stock from a 1/4" Neoprene sheet. They told me they would not do that again. Buna-N will give you good service. When you buy your O-ring stock, purchase an industrial super glue from the supplier.

Note: I cut the material about 1" longer than needed then trimmed the end of the square O-ring stock in place to fit. When you trim the material cut it about 1/16" longer, then check the fit. You may have to compress the O-ring lengthwise. Once you achieve a good fit, pull one end out of the slot, dab glue on the end, and fit the gasket in place. Don’t glue your fingers to the gasket - most embarrassing.

In 2001, we replaced all our portlight gaskets for about $16.00.

Rod

I have them Gerry.

Denis

----- Original Message -----
From: “BCC Forums” bccforums@samlmorse.com
To: bccforum@samlmorse.com
Sent: Sunday, January 23, 2011 9:17 AM
Subject: [BCC Forum Post] ross8350: Re: portlights

Oops, finger trouble.

Denis

----- Original Message -----
From: “BCC Forums” bccforums@samlmorse.com
To: bccforum@samlmorse.com
Sent: Sunday, January 23, 2011 10:20 AM
Subject: Re: [BCC Forum Post] ross8350: Re: portlights

i am pleased with the new portlights. i replaced both the gaskets and the glass as well. the glass is tempered e-glass in bronze. i am attaching some pics

g

i am sending along photos of the completed portlights, holes decored and epoxied, new gasket, new tempered low e glass with bronze tint. inside portlight covered with awl brite.