John
I will tell you what I did on XIPHIAS and my new BCC NEREUS…and new
BCC’s… Not tying to say this is the best or that there are not better
ways…only ideas to think about:
-----Original Message-----
From: John Churchill <jchurchill@erols.com >
To: bcc@eGroups.com <bcc@eGroups.com >
Date: Thursday, December 16, 1999 8:20 PM
Subject: [bcc] boom vangs, etc
i have the boom off for repainting and am thinking about a vang. does
anyone have one and the approx dimension of where the bails are
secured? it looks like lever arm on the mast may be hard to come by.
Arm on mast is available but you cannot open the skylight hatch when
installed.
If we install a boom vang we use the traditional type with a double block,
snap shackle one end, double lines or two lines up and two lines down to
another double, cam cleat and snap shackle. We install a boom bail just fwd
of the front of the dodger. If you do not have a dodger, swing the boom out
and when it is touching the aft lowers come vertically down to the outside
of the bulwarks. To install the bail we use a 3/8" threaded rod and drill
and tap the sides of the boom in the middle. We install the all thread
followed by thin nuts, the bail is spread slightly to fit over the all
thread, followed by washers and acorn nuts. Personally, I install a cleat
at the fwd end of the boom. Using a bungy cord wrapped several times around
the bail and seized I attach the snap shackle at the top of the boom vang to
this cord. I run the vang along under the boom to this cleat where I attach
the other end. Now when I want to use it it is there, ready to snap in
place. I do the same with a preventer from the end of the boom all the way
under it to anothe cleat fwd. If you need more details call
also i need a schaefer series 404 cheek block for a 3rd reef that
i am adding. they are no longer made in that style, but i would like
to match the existing. does anyone know where one might be available
or have a spare they would be willing to part with?
Can help you here but might mention that I have installed all my reefing
lines leading to the cockpit (getting old). However, in order to do this
all the friction must be eliminated so I installed a TIDES STRONG sail slide
in the track of the mast, this makes it frictionless to raise and lower the
sails. Next I shackled harken air blockes to each out haul reef grommet and
each down haul reef grommet (6 total). I run each reef line on the same
side (starboard or which ever side your main halyard is on) of the boom.
The first reef begins at a pad eye or even the end of the turning block at
the aft end of the boom, up the the air block, down to the turning block,
fwd to another turning block (I actually installed a tripple stacked block
for the three reef points), up to the air block down to a floating swiven on
the aft end of the mast just at cabin height. I also use a tripple block
here, then to a tripple turning block on the top of the cabin center fwd, to
the port corner on the cabin where I have a single turning block which leads
the third reed inboard of the hand rail and a double turning block which
leads the 2nd and 1st reef on the out side of the handrail. These three
reef lines each lead back to a fairlead, through the dodger, to another
fairlead then to rope a single and a double rope clutch. The main halyard
does the same thing but by itself on the starboard side. To reef I am
sailing on any point…do not turn up into the wind. release the halyard
some then winch in the reef until the halyard is taught and the reef is
even, then release more halyard and continue until the reef is snuggly down.
It takes more time to reef this way but it works and you don’t leave the
cockpit …call if you want more detail
finally i am going to add a whisker pole and a trysail. i have the
1-1/4" track already. any advice as to mounting location for the
trysail track? i had thought of putting it more or less along side the
mainsail slot to port and running it all the way down to the deck, so i
can keep the sail bagged there if desired. what dimensions are used
for the trysail and how exactly is the thing rigged?
Trisail track is any size you want, talk to your sail maker. We use 7/8".
We run ours from the top of the deck boxes up the starboard (halyard side)
aft corner of the mast, not too close to the main sail slide or the sails
will chafe against it when on a run. We extend it to just below the upper
spreaders. How you deploy your trisail varies by individual and I am
reluctant to advise. First you must consider if you will be running it up
inside or outside the lazy jacks (if you have them), if the sheets will lead
to their separate blocks on the taffrail or to existing mainsheet blocks or
will the only be one sheet leading to a turning block on the end of the boom
to a cleat so the main sheet and boom handle the trisail. Regardless, you
will need a strong eye strap at the bottom of the track to attach a penant.
This will determine how high it will set which will determine where it will
lead…call for more details
what size do
people use for a whisker pole? a fixed or extending pole? line or
push button? i have thought of doing a hollow box section homebuilt
one, but do not know where end fittings are available for a square pole.
thanks in advance
john churchill
bcc #65 “bucephalus”
For long tern use the extendable poles are not reliable, The length is
susposed to be the “J” measurement or about 17 feet. I find this too long.
I personally fee a pole between 14 and 16 feet is ideal . If there is a
radar installed below the staysail stay then this restricts the length of
pole you can use. I use a 3" diameter X 14’ pole on a car on a track. My
pole is kept in place by pulling the car up the track so the pole is hanging
down infront of the track. The bottom end is held in a rubber chock at just
above the height of the scuttle hatch (so I can swing it out without hitting
the hatch) I have a topping lift on the pole at all times but have fore and
aft guy pre made to length to lead from the pole end (piston up) fwd through
the fwd haws to the bitts and one aft to the midship haws to the cleat. When
the pole is deployed the lines become taught (I have eyes tied at the
location of the cleats and bitts with long tails for adjusting) When guys
and topping lift are properly adjusted (Premark) the end of the pole should
be at the same height as the clew of the sail. You can move the pole fore
or aft by adjusting the guys. I deploy my pole by having the sails on the
other tack, I run the lea sheet throught the pole with the piston up, I pre
set the guys and topping lift, push the pole out over the lifelines and pull
the car down the track (minor adjusting of the topping lift may be required)
until the pole is in position then tack the sail or raise it or un roll it.
To drop the pole I either tack the sail, roll it up or just leave it be as
is, I slacken the topping lift so the pole’s weight is pulling the sheet
down, pull the piston release and the sheet pops out of the pole and above
it so you can now lower the pole by pulling the car up the track…can if
you have questions.
Roger
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