Ok folks, it’s repower time for Jolie Brise. The Volvo 18 that is in there just isn’t enough even though she runs pretty darn good. I notice that a lot of our (BCC’s) boats are powered with 30 HP Yanmar. Is there anyone who can advise on other engines,Volvo or Westerbeke ? We are leaning toward Volvo but thought we would ask for an opinion from the rest of the family. What would you repower with?
Bob & Lois
BCC Jolie Brise
Hi Bob, I re-powered Calliste, # 072 . It had a Volvo 2002 or something like that.
I was really bothered by the v high price of Volvo replacement parts, and the engineering joints on the cooling water bungs, which were leak prone.
After a little research I went with the Yanmar 3GM 30 , it was the least expensive because I had a discount on it, has a reputation to be most reliable, parts easy to get world wide , and most of the charter fleet use them .
I did put a Balmar high output alternator on it, which I was told would void the warrentee .
The down shaft angle of the Volvo was different than the Yanmar, and the f/g engine bed could still be used, but new motor mount struts were fabricated.
Adapting to the existing shaft tube angle, made the Yanmar sit higher above the f/g pan , but because the engine ways had 1/4" steel plates in them , the Yanmar motor mounts bolted onto them, well .
I added a National flexable shaft coupling .
This Yanmar has 2,580 hours on it, now, and I haven’t had any major problems with it , yet !
If needed, I would buy it again .
Douglas
Hello Bob and Lois,
I have always been a Yanmar advocate. Have had four boats with different Yanmars and all performed very well. Parts availability/cost and expertise was never an issue. Currently have a small diesel skiff with an older Volvo engine and the parts when available are very expensive.
The BCC’s have a good history with the Yanmar. My current BCC has the newer 3YM30 which I find quieter running that the workhorse 3GM30. Additionally, the newwer Yanmar has the raw water pump with the plate facing forward so you don’t have to remove the pump to replace the impellar.
Good luck with your final decision.
Best
Mark
Douglas and Mark,
Thank you for your information on the repower. Douglas, you mentioned that engine struts had to be fabricated. Could you tell me what that involved. Mark, were the mounts on your engine altered in order to get the right angle to hook up to the shaft. Do either of you know what is under the fiberglass in the engine pan in the area where the motor mounts bolt to? I would like to get as much of my homework finished so I don’t run into surprises. I know,I know it’s a boat.
Thanks,
Bob & Lois
BCC Jolie Brise
Hello Bob and Lois,
I will be at the boat this weekend and take a look at the mounts. I will also take some pictures. I believe the engine that was original was the same Volvo 18hp that you have now. As far as what is under the fiberglass in the pan area I am hoping that Roger will chime in here. I do not know if the support legs on the engine pan are cored with wood as it appears the motor mounts are lagged to the pan. I am a bit of a drive from Annapolis but you are welcome to stop by and have a look for yourself if you are interested.
Best to you
Mark
SV “Lightfoot”
Mark,
Thanks,I too hope Roger can shed some light on this. In looking at my set-up I am believing that there is some type of wood under there to lag the mounts to. In tapping the engine pan surface it sounds pretty solid. Hey, the rest of the boat is built like the proverbial outhouse so why should this be any less?
Thanks,
Bob & Lois
BCC Jolie Brise
My BCC also had a Volvo 18-hp, which was underpowered for the strong currents frequently experienced in the Pacific Northwest.
I replaced it with a Westerbeke M35D. The hours on that engine are still relatively low - about 350 - but I have had no problems whatsoever. Installation was relatively easy with no engine bed modifications required, except to install risers, which the installer fabricated from oak.
If you go this route, however, you should be aware that the engine oil dipstick is located on the starboard side and is virtually impossible to access. Fortunately, Westerbeke has a kit to allow for the installation of the oil dipstick on the port side, which makes access very easy.
Hi Bob, I took some v recent piks of Calliste’s Yanmar engine mounting , but I don’t know how to post them to you !
Do you have any ideas, that are simple, and easy to get them to you ?
Douglas
Douglas:
I suspect you already know how to attach digital images but let me review the process. Printed photos need to scanned to convert them to digital images.
If the photos are digital files, reply to this thread. In the lower right corner of the reply box, select “Attach” to open the attachement page. For each photo you want to post, select “browse” after each file box on the attachment page. Find your file and select it. The file will be pasted into the file box. Continue to do this until all files have been attached. At the bottom of the attachment page select either “attach” or “cancel.” If you selelct “attach” the thread with attached image files will be posted.
I suspect you already know how to do this and the photos are prints. In that case you would have to scan the files into digital imagees.
Oh, download the attached file to your replicator and enjoy lunch.
Cheers,
Rod
Rod,
Thanks,you took the words right out of my mouth. By the way do you have a recipe for that dish? Looks good.
Bob & Lois
BCC Jolie Brise
Bob & Lois:
The salad was prepared as follows:
romaine Lettuce - hearts about 5-6 leaves
1 small cucumber sliced (farmer’s market)
1 tomato sliced into wedges then cut across each wedge (farmer’s market)
bacon bits by “eye” (soy bean based)
1 to 2 oz feta cheese (crumbled blue cheese)
1/2 can chucky tuna (optional)
Dressing:
2 tps extra virgin olive oil
2 tps balsamic vinegar
Prep time: less than 10 minutes
Add the lettuce, cucumber and tomato to a bowl, drizzle olive oil and vinegar over salad, toss if you wish, add bacon bits and cheese. Enjoy.
I really enjoy the fresh produce from our farmer’s market, hence I eat salads frequently. These are mostly prepared by “eye” and based on what I have on hand. Sometimes I add shaved carrot and/or red or green chopped pepper to the salad. The more color I can add to the salad, the more nutrious the food.
What makes this salad look so good is the lighting and the depth of field control. I placed a backlight (aluminum reflector shop light) behind the salad and an overhead ceiling light (standard incandescent bulbs). The shallow depth of field was controlled in Photoshop my adding a second duplicate image in a layer above the background image then adding a Gaussian blur filter to the duplicate image. Once the image was completely blurred, I used a mask to selectively remove the blur. This is the first food shot that I have liked. Food photography is an art that may use shellac, shoe polish, smoke, etc etc. to achieve the end product. Sometimes the food is uncooked and made to look cooked and delicious. You could never eat what you see in the photos in a food magazine.
The is probably TMI. Sorry for digressing from the repowering thread. Food is power.
Cheers,
Rod
T Y , Rod, for the info on how to attach digital photos here, sorry that computer science is beyond me, most of the time !
Bob, I will try now to post the piks of my Yanmar conversion,
T Y , Rod, for the info on how to attach digital photos here, sorry that computer science is beyond me, most of the time !
Bob, I will try now to post the piks of my Yanmar conversion, Opps, so sorry I just ran afoul of the kb limitation, ie: just one pik is 1.29 mb !
Ok , usually when I attach photos to emails , I use my Nikon View program, and that allows me to resize the pik file down to 100-200 kb .
So what do you want to do now ?
Easiest for me would be to send the 4 or 5 piks to you by email .
Douglas
Douglas:
OK, just resize the images. With the Nikon View program set the image size, such that the longest side is between 600 and 800. If you can set the resolution when you are resizing the image, set resolution first to 72-80 pixels. Some programs will automatically resize the image when you change the resolution. Once you have resized the image, save (save as) the image as a copy in a jpg format, i.e. (filenumber-copy.jpg) or (filenumber-title.jpg). Saving the image under a new filename preserves the original file at it’s highest resolution - important. If you do not do this, the original file is lost. I suspect, the jpg file format is the default setting for the Nikon View program. With some programs, after you select “save” or “save as”, a menu box will open asking you what jpg compression ratio you what to save the file, i.e. small, medium, high, max. If this is the case select “medium.” Once you have done this a couple of times, it becomes “old hat.”
The standard image resolution for the Internet is 72 pixels. The viewing quality of the image will not change if the image resolution is set above 72 pixels or dot per inch (dpi). The screen displays the image at 72 pixels or dpi. The viewing quality will decrease if the image resolution is set below 72 pixels or dpi. In these cases, the viewing quality is size dependent when the resolution is less than 72 pixels or dpi.
Hope that helps, if you have questions, post a note under this thread and I will copy this information and my previous thread into a new thread. By doing this, the order of the posting will be preserved.
Cheers,
Rod
PLEASE REMEMBER:
If you are uploading images to the gallery section of the site, ensure your vessel’s name is included in the filename so that we can allocate it to the correct vessel:
i.e. myboatsname_engine1.jpg
Ok, now that we’ve done lunch and and got our on line image sending class under our belts let’s see some pix. Rod, there is never TMI in teaching how to do something. Your information really helped me out in resizing and resolution issues. Thanks a bunch. Douglas, if it works sending them via e-mail,do that. lobo@embarq.com Thanks for all your time on this.
Bob & Lois
BCC Jolie Brise
Consider Beta and Perkins engines as well. Both may have an edge over or Volvo and Yanmar in part costs and availability. I have no idea which models would be applicable, but it’s certainly worth looking.
When we have to replace our Perkins 4-108, it’ll be with a Beta.
Cheers!
Aaron N.
We have beat the bushes in looking for engines. Beta ,Volvo, Westerbeke, some Italian engine whose name I can’t pronounce. All in all we settled on a 3YM30 Yanmar. In helping our decision we looked at the prices and availability of support parts like filters,replacement pumps,injectors and service. Yanmar was the most favored. One Volvo mechanic even told me to go with a Yanmar. Beta sounded good but we found few mechanics familiar with them. The new 3YM is easier to service and has gained much respect in the charter fleets.
Bob & Lois
BCC Jolie Brise
Hello Bob,
I think you made a good choice on the Yanmar. If you are going to use a high output alternator consider asking for the engine less the std 60 Amp Hitachi alternator and ask how much less this would be. Will you be using an engine driven compressor for refridgeration ? If so you may want to find out if there is a special pulley required as well as a special bracket. I have the bracket for the Seafrost compressor if you need it.
Our Yanmar (3ym30) has the high putput Balmar on it. The original alterator that came with the engine mentioned above was never used …a real waste.
Good luck with your install
Best to you
Mark
SV “Lightfoot”
Mark,
I believe the Yanmar we bought has an 80 amp alternator on it. I had planned to swap the Balmer series 60 high output that we now have on the Volvo. Not sure this will work,any ideas? Probably will have to get another bracket. Tell me about your Seafrost refrigeration. I am familiar with it, how does it work for you? The refrigeration part of this is coming after the engine is installed. We’re shopping and getting ideas.
Thanks
Bob & Lois
Bcc Jolie Brise