I am planning on repowering Calypso - replacing the original Sabb 10 GSP. I’m looking at engines - so far seriously considering the Yanmar 3YM30 and the Beta 30.
I plan or replacing everything: engine, shaft, prop, stern tube, shaft seal, tank, racor, muffler, raw water through hull and strainer, morse cables, cockpit controls, diesel tank, engine electrical, including isolator, battery selector switch, etc. If anyone has any of these parts laying around, surplus to needs, make me an offer.
I’d also be interested in owners’ opinions and experiences with equipment selection and installation details.
Jeremy look at Dave Kents blog, he used Beta but he suspects he may have underpowered model. Nice in that it can have two alts. I used Yannie pictures under Stravaigin Hull 126 Bristol Channel Cutter. Do I sense another trip? We are off to the exumas next year…
Jeremy look at Dave Kents blog, he used Beta but he suspects he may have underpowered model. Nice in that it can have two alts. I used Yannie pictures under Stravaigin Hull 126 Bristol Channel Cutter. Do I sense another trip? We are off to the exumas next year…
Hello Stewart - thanks for pointing out Dave’s blog. Looks like he installed a Beta 25. He also had an interesting post about transporting his mast - I’m considering bringing my own home for winter for stripping/varnishing. I cant find your pictures - where are they? I’m always dreaming of the next trip, but I fear it won’t be next winter. You never know though. Regards, Jeremy
My vote is for the Yanmar 3YM30. Had one of those in Lightfoot. Real smooth running engine and a consideration for the cruising you do; good parts availability as well. They finally made a change on the raw water pump so that you can access and change the impeller from the front. In the older 3GM you had to remove the entire pump and the cover was to the back. I am not sure but I think the profile might even be a tad lower. I think they also are possibly quieter than the 3GM. I am sure there is a blog somewhere with alot of good feedback and comments on the engine. Good luck with your choice,
Best
Mark
SV Grey Seal
Hi Jeremy and Nica,
How many hours on your Sabb? Our local mechanic assured me that our G-10 will out live me. I had assumed that he didn’t know of any health issues in me. I can’t imagine a finer engine!
Cheers,
Tom
Terrier #31
Jeremy type into your browser “hull 126 Bristol channel cutter” and it should pop up. I put an ample power SARv3 in it also and an ample power small case alt generating 125 amps, it all works well and charging is efficient and short. Quite pleased with it all.
Your blog on building Stravaigin is going to be a handy reference - thanks! I dove in today and put money down on a 3YM30 - so that decision is made. I’m thinking about props now. Max-prop won’t be an option - too dear. I know you went that route. Have you a chance to increase the pitch? Last post I found indicated you have the 16 deg pitch, which is only 8.6" on a 16" Max-prop, and found this might be insufficient pitch for the engine. That does seem quite low compared to the various “prop calcs” I have come across. The calcs suggest I need a 16" x 11" prop. It’s a bit hit and miss buying a fixed blade prop - no easy adjustment like the Max-prop or Kiwi-prop. I suppose they can be slightly re-pitched by a prop-shop. I wonder if any BCC owners who have upgraded to a Max-prop might have their original fixed prop collecting dust in their garage.
Jeremy,
I have a 3/4 inch spartan bronze seacock valve, a seawater strainer, exhaust muffler and fuel filter. I will take a few photos when I go to the boat this afternoon.
The 3YM30 replaced the 3GM30 around 2004. Early 3YM30s suffered from overheating problems, which was Yanmar corrected with a larger capacity heat exchanger in later serial numbers. I’ve not heard of this problem with any of the recent engines in this series. I hear the YM is quieter; more powerful; less shake after startup; and has a front mounted raw water pump (GM had it on the back). I’m hoping sailorphil’s piston rod through the case experience is an aberration I won’t experience :-).
Jeremy,
Some (?) of the early 3YM30’s had a serious design problem. A friend in Australia (around 2005) had his first one replaced by Yanmar, soon after it was installed. It seems like it was more serious that just overheating. However, I believe that the 3YM30’s problems have all been fixed. My Yanmar mechanic thinks it’s a much better engine than the 3GM30. He says its glow plugs make it easy to start, especially in cold weather.
The 3GM30’s raw water pump was mounted on the front in a way that required removing the whole pump in order to get access to the cover plate over the impellor.
Jeremy I used a Max prop 16" at 16 two seasons ago, 18 pitch this last season and will go to 20 for the coming season. I researched the blog and I was disappointed at 16 and 18. Call up max prop, they gave me a great deal. I looked at the europeans props and they have some good ones with good credentials, but thye were folding and would require butchering the rudder which I didn’t want to do. I think the maxprop is oldish technology but established and reliable, of course the adjusment is a big thing.
Jeremy I used a Max prop 16" at 16 two seasons ago, 18 pitch this last season and will go to 20 for the coming season. I researched the blog and I was disappointed at 16 and 18. Call up max prop, they gave me a great deal. I looked at the europeans props and they have some good ones with good credentials, but thye were folding and would require butchering the rudder which I didn’t want to do. I think the maxprop is oldish technology but established and reliable, of course the adjusment is a big thing.
Stewart, your progression on max-prop pitch is interesting. Are you able to easily reach/exceed 3600 rpm at 18 degrees prop pitch? Interestingly enough, 20 degrees is 11" pitch, which is what the calcs I’ve run suggest I’ll need with this engine… 16 x 11. I’m not sure how the relatively flat blades of the max-prop compare to the cupped and twisted blades of a typical fixed blade prop in these sorts of calculations.
Jeremy I just have a feel that the boat could drive better with more power on the prop. I had no difficulty meeting 3600 rpm. I suspect that 20 will be just fine. The flat blades if I remember my physics likely will give less power than curved ones. So 20 for me should be just fine.
