Does anyone know the recommended wire size for the BCC bobstays and boomkin
stays? Mine are 3/8" and they look to be a bit over size.
David & Susan
Te Wahapu Road
RD 1
Russell, NZ 0255
goodallradtke@xtra.co.nz
Not oversized. 3/8 for the bobstay and 5/16 for the boomkin stays. I believe that those sizes were the recommended ones by Lyle Hess. I standarized the headstay, backstay and shrouds to 9/32 (some called for 1/4" so I could carry fewer Sta-loc spares along with 50 feet of 9/32 wire.
Stan Roeder hull22 'Waxwing'
Do You Yahoo!? LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience
|
David/Susan,
The rigging plan I have indicates 3/8" 1x19 or 7x7. The loading of these wires will exceed that of the forestay/backstay due to the angle away from the vertical - you could do a vector diagram to demonstrate this. You don't want these wires to stretch at all (ellastically) - that way you minimize the vertical movement of the bowsprit and boomkin when the rig is under load.
In the same vein, my boat used to have a chain bobstay. I don't recall what the comperative yield strengths are off hand, but I recall that there is an extreme difference between chain and wire (chain being rated MUCH weaker for a simar cross section size). I switched to wire.
Regards,
Jeremy
|
Hi All,
This is my first posting, so please be gentle.
My BCC is in the process of being re-rigged and I am wondering if
anyone has experience and/or recommendations about the following
things:
-
The rigger is recommending a traveler. My theory is that the
multi-block arrangement on a BCC acts as at least a semi-traveler.
But I’m in no position to argue with the rigger. Would this be a
significant performance improvement? -
The rigger is recommending “modern” cleats for the main sheet.
Sumio told me that Harken 1574s have been installed by Sam L Morse on
some BCCs with hull ids greater than 100. Is this a significant
performance improvement? -
The rigger is recommending to increase the wire size for the
standing rigging by 1 size. -
On a related note, I am hoping to add a dinghy to my cabin top at
some point in the future. I am focused, but not stuck, on a Fatty
Knees. Has anyone had experience with a Fatty Knees (or other
dinghy) on the cabin top? If so, what size (7 or 8 ft)? And how
much do you need to raise the boom?
NOTE: I’m not specifically looking to improve the performance of my
BCC, but the rigger has a vision and I can’t re-shape that vision
unless I have some good information.
Thanks for the help,
Rob Wood
S/V Mon Desir
BCC #18
|
If I may suggest, don't do anything until more BCC owners can reply. It is late on the east coast, I will write more later.
There was a recent post about rigging at this forum. Do a search for "standing rigging" and one for "running rigging."
The rigger you employed does not understand the BCC and perhaps is attempting to take advantage of your newness to the boat.
rod
S/V IDUNA
|
|
Dear Ron,
Hi there.
About rigging, while Im not expert&I can say
1) Brian Toss says that the BCC is the most amazing rig he knows of and Id ask him about the Traveler. Weve invited him to come to Annapolis for Boat Show and I hope he will address this very issue&if he comes&maybe we can use Aloha as a demo BCC&Id love it.
2) As for the Main sheet, I have a simple cam cleat after the block that is Perfect&Id do no more and Im a girl. I can take a picture of this neat little addition&it is perfect.
3) As for wire size&you are being taken as the BCC is already overbuilt to the max&I cant imagine anyone recommending a size up&hope you are not talking to Brian Toss&
4) As for the dinghy on the cabin top, Jolie Brise has a fabulous arrangement originally designed for a Fatty Knees and later adjusted slightly for a slightly lesser dinghy. I much prefer the cabin top mount rather than the one over the doghouse. I have a picture, but youd really need details. Bill Kiskosski or others might be able to help with specifics.
Finally, Id just say that you should avoid doing too much modernization as you will ultimately loose the nature of what Lyle Hess created&and that means you will loose value because BCCs are somewhat of a piece of history&something of the past that is valuable because it is what it is.
Thank you for posting&this is a great place, with people with knowledge and experience far greater than that which I have. Let me know if youd like pictures. Kate Kate Christensen RogueWave Yacht Sales & Services, LLC. 1806 Dreams Landing Way Annapolis, MD 21401 USA 410 571-2955 Office 410 703-5008 Cell 801 681-9741 Fax
-----Original Message----- From: frwood2000 [mailto:frwood2000@yahoo.com] Sent: Friday, June 06, 2003 4:23 PM To: bcc@yahoogroups.com Subject: [bcc] Rigging
Hi All, This is my first posting, so please be gentle. My BCC is in the process of being re-rigged and I 1. The rigger is recommending a 2. The rigger is recommending 3. The rigger is recommending to increase 4. On a related note, I am hoping to add a NOTE: I’m not specifically looking to Thanks for the help, Rob Wood Your use of |
|
Hi Rob -- And welcome to the gang. I second the reply from Rod- the rigger is either a novice himself or is attempting to take advantage of your relative lack of info. That is... given that the present standing rig is made of standard size wires. You need a rig/ sail plan. The boats are very heavily rigged to begin with- some people deviate away from the original plan to standardize the wire sizes, but certainly no need to increase anything.
BCC's have had travelers installed. Just my personal opinion: it misses the point of the boat. Travelers are not necessary. Some slight performance gain, but are you doing buoy races?
The cam cleats are a convenience item. If you plan on doing lots of daysailing, or competitive sailing, perhaps they are a good idea. For cases where the mainsheet is not being handled on a moment by moment basis (cruising?) cleating off is not bad at all. I compromised when I built MINX and used the jamming type of cleat. Performance gain? Only in the fact that you might tend to trim the mainsheet more often if it's easier to do. Which could be significant.
MINX carries a Ranger Minto 9 foot sailing dinghy on the cabin top. The boom is at standard height. I'm very happy with the arrangement, the dinghy and it's sailing performance. The Minto isn't as deep as a Fatty Knees, is very easily driven and is about 90 lbs. It too is lapstrake/ glass. I've won numerous races against FKs. The Minto is 'finer' all round than the FK, but carries unbelievable quantities of gear and people. 9 feet fits on the cabin semi-diagonally, with the stern at the mast and the stem of the inverted dinghy offset so access below is OK. When I was building I decided that I wanted the biggest hard tender I could fit and that since tenders get used so much in real life cruising, it needed to be a priority. The decision almost excludes a dodger from the cockpit, though I have in mind one that could be custom made if I really wanted to.
Roy
SV MINX
|
|
My answers to your questions are in the text below.
[RB]The BCC will point upwind to perhaps 50 degrees to the true wind in calm water but 55 to 60 degrees is more common. These tacking angles of 100 to 120 degrees tack-to-tack are dictated by the fact the boat is a full keel boat and not a fin keel boat such as a J-boat, etc. Adding a travel will not improve the tack-to-tack angle. It may improve the performance to some degree but the cost and complexity of adding a travel, in my opinion, does not merit the marginal gain in sail performace. Lyle Hess, designed a superb sail machine and knew what he was doing when he setup the mainsheet fittings. If it would have been incorrectly designed Sam L. Morse Co. would have change the sheeting arrangement a long time ago. Don't add complexity to such simple functional mainsheet - KISS and save your money.
Fair Winds and Welcome, |
I very much appreciate your comments so far.
I just wanted to clarify something important.
The rigger that is working on Mon Desir has an excellent reputation
and was highly recommended by multiple people, including the person
who rigs BCCs for Sam L Morse. He is very excited about the project,
has previously rigged at least 1 BCC and refers to the BCC as
a “phenomenal boat”.
However, I don’t believe that he follows BCCs to the same level of
detail as people on this forum. I think that he is just going
through his standard checklist of items for a boat whose rigging is
20 years old.
He was the one that suggested that I check with Sam L Morse regarding
some of these items and on Thursday he suggested contacting Sam L
Morse himself (specifically regarding the wire size).
Sumio has been very helpful, but I wanted to get some feedback from
the people on this forum. I’ve monitored it for a while and am
impressed with the level of enthusiasm here.
At this point, I am thinking (unless I see some compelling reasons to
do otherwise):
- Not to go with the traveler.
- Not to go with the updated cleats.
- Not to go with the larger wire size.
Thanks,
Rob Wood
S/V Mon Desir
BCC #18
— In bcc@yahoogroups.com , “frwood2000” <frwood2000@y…> wrote:
Hi All,
This is my first posting, so please be gentle.
My BCC is in the process of being re-rigged and I am wondering if
anyone has experience and/or recommendations about the following
things:
The rigger is recommending a traveler. My theory is that the
multi-block arrangement on a BCC acts as at least a semi-traveler.
But I’m in no position to argue with the rigger. Would this be a
significant performance improvement?The rigger is recommending “modern” cleats for the main sheet.
Sumio told me that Harken 1574s have been installed by Sam L Morse
on
some BCCs with hull ids greater than 100. Is this a significant
performance improvement?The rigger is recommending to increase the wire size for the
standing rigging by 1 size.On a related note, I am hoping to add a dinghy to my cabin top
at
some point in the future. I am focused, but not stuck, on a Fatty
Knees. Has anyone had experience with a Fatty Knees (or other
dinghy) on the cabin top? If so, what size (7 or 8 ft)? And how
much do you need to raise the boom?NOTE: I’m not specifically looking to improve the performance of
my
BCC, but the rigger has a vision and I can’t re-shape that vision
unless I have some good information.Thanks for the help,
Rob Wood
S/V Mon Desir
BCC #18
40 years ago all us poor folk used 7X7 galvanized and spliced it.
It will cost you less than half as much and last more than twice as
long. Good quality galvanized wire will be about as strong as good
quality 316 stainless, and the weight will be about the same also.
The reason galvanized last longer is because mild steel is not
subject to work harding.
As far as rigging goes, stainless steel is overrated. It does have
one advantage, however, stainless steel wire shines at little and
some people think that is very pretty. Personally, I would rather
save my money.
— In bcc@yahoogroups.com , “frwood2000” <frwood2000@y…> wrote:
Hi All,
This is my first posting, so please be gentle.
My BCC is in the process of being re-rigged and I am wondering if
anyone has experience and/or recommendations about the following
things:
The rigger is recommending a traveler. My theory is that the
multi-block arrangement on a BCC acts as at least a semi-traveler.
But I’m in no position to argue with the rigger. Would this be a
significant performance improvement?The rigger is recommending “modern” cleats for the main sheet.
Sumio told me that Harken 1574s have been installed by Sam L Morse
on
some BCCs with hull ids greater than 100. Is this a significant
performance improvement?The rigger is recommending to increase the wire size for the
standing rigging by 1 size.On a related note, I am hoping to add a dinghy to my cabin top
at
some point in the future. I am focused, but not stuck, on a Fatty
Knees. Has anyone had experience with a Fatty Knees (or other
dinghy) on the cabin top? If so, what size (7 or 8 ft)? And how
much do you need to raise the boom?NOTE: I’m not specifically looking to improve the performance of
my
BCC, but the rigger has a vision and I can’t re-shape that vision
unless I have some good information.Thanks for the help,
Rob Wood
S/V Mon Desir
BCC #18
|
Roy of Minx,
Hi there. Thanks for your rigging comments. Are you sailing East or sailing West..or North or South. We need more BCCs in the East&. Kate Kate Christensen RogueWave Yacht Sales & Services, LLC. 1806 Dreams Landing Way Annapolis, MD 21401 USA 410 571-2955 Office 410 703-5008 Cell 801 681-9741 Fax
-----Original Message----- From: Roy Myers [mailto:myersroy_e@hotmail.com] Sent: Saturday, June 07, 2003 12:49 AM To: bcc@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [bcc] Rigging
Hi Rob -- And welcome to the gang. I second the reply from Rod- the rigger is either a novice himself or is attempting to take advantage of your relative lack of info. That is... given that the present standing rig is made of standard size wires. You need a rig/ sail plan. The boats are very heavily rigged to begin with- some people deviate away from the original plan to standardize the wire sizes, but certainly no need to increase anything.
BCC's have had travelers installed. Just my personal opinion: it misses the point of the boat. Travelers are not necessary. Some slight performance gain, but are you doing buoy races?
The cam cleats are a convenience item. If you plan on doing lots of daysailing, or competitive sailing, perhaps they are a good idea. For cases where the mainsheet is not being handled on a moment by moment basis (cruising?) cleating off is not bad at all. I compromised when I built MINX and used the jamming type of cleat. Performance gain? Only in the fact that you might tend to trim the mainsheet more often if it's easier to do. Which could be significant.
MINX carries a Ranger Minto 9 foot sailing dinghy on the cabin top. The boom is at standard height. I'm very happy with the arrangement, the dinghy and it's sailing performance. The Minto isn't as deep as a Fatty Knees, is very easily driven and is about 90 lbs. It too is lapstrake/ glass. I've won numerous races against FKs. The Minto is 'finer' all round than the FK, but carries unbelievable quantities of gear and people. 9 feet fits on the cabin semi-diagonally, with the stern at the mast and the stem of the inverted dinghy offset so access below is OK. When I was building I decided that I wanted the biggest hard tender I could fit and that since tenders get used so much in real life cruising, it needed to be a priority. The decision almost excludes a dodger from the cockpit, though I have in mind one that could be custom made if I really wanted to.
Roy SV MINX
BRISTOL CHANNEL CUTTER OWNERS ASSOCIATION<span style=“font-size:10.0pt;font-family:“Courier New””> Mail List Home: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bcc BCC Owners Home: http://www.geocities.com/bccowners Post message: mailto:bcc@yahoogroups.com Subscribe: mailto:bcc-subscribe@yahoogroups.com Unsubscribe: mailto:bcc-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com List owner: mailto:bcc-owner@yahoogroups.com Your use of |
Rob,
I either have done or am contemplating some of the
things you’ve asked about, so please allow me to add
my two cents worth.
I’m contemplating a traveler - not to make my boat a
buoy racer, but to ease the helm when going upwind in
a blow. Dealing with too much weather helm isn’t fun
or fast racing or cruising. It has been suggested
that a simple bronze track on the taff rail with
adjustable stops would accomplish the objective
without changing the look of the boat too much. I
certainly wouldn’t want all the control blocks and
lines on modern travelers.
I converted my old single ended main sheet to a double
ended version terminating in cam cleats. This was
done to allow me to adjust the main more easily on
either tack, and I’m glad I made the change.
I can’t imagine the need to beef up your rigging
beyond standard. I can recommend an excellent rigger
in Long Beach, California if you’re interested.
I have a 7 foot Fatty Knees mounted on cabin top
chocks which I’m very happy with. Launching and
recovering it singlehanded was difficlut, but I’ve
recently improvised a sling and swivel which make it
much easier. If Mon Desire is still in Southern
California, drop by my boat and I’ll show you what
I’ve done. I’m in the Alamitos Bay Marina, Gangway
14. You can email me at getlokke@yahoo.com . The
earlier advice about not being too quick to make
changes is excellent. Get to know your boat first.
Lokke Patrick
S/V Resolute
BCC #55
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook™.
http://calendar.yahoo.com
— frwood2000 <frwood2000@yahoo.com > wrote:
Rob: Hi, congratulations for having bought a BCC28 and
welcome!
My BCC is in the process of being re-rigged and I am
wondering if
anyone has experience and/or recommendations about the
following
things:
- The rigger is recommending a traveler. My theory
is that the
multi-block arrangement on a BCC acts as at least a
semi-traveler.
But I’m in no position to argue with the rigger. Would
this be a
significant performance improvement?
I’ve seen, but not sailed, only one BCC28 with a
traveller. She had her traveller mounted on the taff
rail, which I figure would run to a boom angle of
about 10 degrees either side of the centreline (the
gallows notches are at a boom angle of about 8 degrees
off the centreline and the outer edge of the gallows
uprights is about 13 degrees off the centreline). When
sailing hard on the wind in flat water, I aim for boom
angles in the 5 - 10 degree range, but that’s the only
time when I would use a traveller (and as Rod pointed
out, a BCC prefers to be a little less hard on the
wind: why choke her when she prefers to go to wind a
little freer?). Being hard on the wind in flat water
is a tiny proportion of my sailing.
I think it’s up to you (not your rigger): if you sail
in flat water, are a keen user of a traveller, and get
your kicks squeezing max close-hauled VMG performance,
then go for it. But if you are not intending to spend
your life sailing hard on the wind (no cruiser does so
out of choice), then you can find many better goods
and services for your $$.
- The rigger is recommending “modern” cleats for the
main sheet.
Sumio told me that Harken 1574s have been installed by
Sam L Morse on
some BCCs with hull ids greater than 100. Is this a
significant
performance improvement?
Zygote, BCC28 #116, has the neat Harken swivel-base
cleats. I like them v much, but they’re tech overkill
for what they do. No performance gain, but a delight
to use (to the point that I take them and their fancy
bearings for granted). I assume your Mon Desir must
have something that already works.
- The rigger is recommending to increase the wire
size for the
standing rigging by 1 size.
Rod, Roy and others have commented already. No rigger
wants to be held liable for sending a rig to sea that
might fail. But what are the apples and oranges that
we are talking about, in terms of what type and size
of wire does Mon Desir have now?
Sam L Morse Co currently builds BCC28s using 316
stainless 1x19. That’s great for cruising, especially
in hot tropical waters (Zygote is at 5 N 100 E, water
temp is close to 30C). 302 series ss 1x19 wire is a
little stronger, but is not as suitable for warm and
salty tropical water. And 7x19 galvanised wire is even
stronger and cheaper (and of course even less suitable
for hot salty water).
Here’s Zygote’s standing rigging specs in 316 ss 1x19
(in case our e-mail clients make a mess, following is
a 4 column x 11 row table, the columns are stay,
diameter (inches), length (pin-to-pin, in feet and
inches) and Breaking Strength of the wire (in pounds).
Note that your stays may differ in length - because
masts and hulls vary a little and Zygote has a delrin
pad under her mast step. In fact, I intend to increase
the length of Zygote’s headstay by about 0.7" when I
next rerig, should I live so long):
Stay Dia Length BS (lbs)
Headstay 9/32 40’ 2.75" 8700
Bobstay 3/8 8’ 0.5" 14800
Whisker stays 1/4 14’ 0.5" 6900
Staysail stay 9/32 26’ 6" 8700
Cap shrouds 1/4 37’ 9" 6900
Intermediate shrouds 1/4 26’ 7.5" 6900
Lower forward shrouds 1/4 15’ 4" 6900
Lower aft shrouds 1/4 15’ 8.5" 6900
Backstay 9/32 8700
Boomkin stays 5/16 3’ 10" 10600
The table lacks an entry for the length of the
backstay because my backstay is in three parts with
the mid length insulated from the others to act as SSB
antenna.
As Rod and others have commented, 316 ss 1x19 at the
above diameters is not stressed in a BCC28: 0.25" 316
ss 1x19 has a breaking strength greater than 2 tonnes.
The mast will stand as long as the rig is tuned.
Tuning is at least as important as wire diameter, if
not more so. A poorly tuned rig can break and fall,
regardless of wire diameter, if the mast is not in
compression.
- On a related note, I am hoping to add a dinghy to
my cabin top at
some point in the future. I am focused, but not stuck,
on a Fatty
Knees. Has anyone had experience with a Fatty Knees
(or other
dinghy) on the cabin top? If so, what size (7 or 8
ft)? And how
much do you need to raise the boom?
Zygote carries a Cherub dinghy (made by Sam L Morse
Co, quite similar to the Lyle Hess-designed Fatty
Knees in many ways) forward of the mast (the bow of
the dinghy sits in a notch in the bowsprit, the
transom is captured by two cleats to port and
starboard of the fore edge of the mast; the dinghy
sits over the scuttle hatch). A Cherub is (check the
Sam L Morse Co website) about 7’4" or 2.2 metres long
and weighs about 39 kg or 85 lbs. Being on the
foredeck means that I can use a halyard and winch to
lift the dinghy over the lifelines for launch and
retrieval. And it leaves my sight lines over the cabin
top unimpaired. I launch and retrieve my dinghy with
the help of one crew. Roger Olson has, in an earlier
post to this group, explained his technique, using a
couple of short lines, to launch and retrieve
singlehanded.
I agree with Rod - don’t raise your boom. And be
prepared to look for another rigger.
Cheers
Bil
Zygote, Penang, Malaysia
http://mobile.yahoo.com.au - Yahoo! Mobile
- Check & compose your email via SMS on your Telstra or Vodafone mobile.
Hi Rob,
- The rigger is recommending a traveler.
I see no advantage to a traveler on boom end sheeting. Even if a
four-part car-type traveler is placed across the taffrail it can only
minimally effect sail/shape trim when hard on the wind. Any angle
less then hard on the wind, it doesn’t make any difference because
the sheeting angle is such that the boom is beyond the virtical of
the transom. I used to have a bronze track across the taffrail that
the lower, center sheet block would ride on (with movable stops)but
never felt that it made any difference in pointing. The difference in
sheeting angle was just to slight, even with the movable block moved
uup the weather side of the traveler. I later re-rigged and left the
bronze traveler off. I don’t feel end-boom sheeting lends itself to
any great sailshaping the way a mid-boom traveler will.
Also, as has already been mentioned by others, the BCC will ‘stand
up’ and move faster with an eased main rather than trying to pinch-up
by oversheeting. Just my 2-cents worth.
- The rigger is recommending “modern” cleats for the main sheet.
I’m not an advocate of cam or clam cleats on main sheets unless
you’re a racer. There is too much opportunity to ‘knock’ them loose
inadvertantly in a crowded cockpit; not a danger, just a pain in the
neck.
On Waxwing, we have the traditional double ended mainsheet with
standard Herreshoff horned cleats mounted on the inboard end of the
boomkin. They are large enough to also act as ‘dock’ cleats. And a
simple round turn with a single cross over (not a half-hitch)hold the
mainsheet in the worst of conditions.
- The rigger is recommending to increase the wire size for the
standing rigging by 1 size.
The sizes Hess recommends is very adequate. I increased the size of
my shrouds one size to 9/32 only to standardize it with most of the
other wire for simplicity of using interchangable Sta-Loc wire and
fittings. It means having to carry less parts while cruising.
- On a related note, I am hoping to add a dinghy to my cabin top
We used to carry our Montgomery 6.5 foot dink on the cabin top on
long passages which was fine because you are rarely sitting at the
helm trying to ‘see’ where you’re going. But for coastal or inshore
work it really blocks the view foreward. I didn’t care for the option
of putting one on the foredeck because it limits the area to work
while setting the staysail and while anchoring (and the foredeck is
my favorite spot to ‘hang out’ underway).
Our personal answer was a dinghy too large to put on deck and had to
be towed. Not the best idea but worked fine throughout the Caribbean.
(Actually we towed 12-foot dinks from the Chesapeake to Venezuela.)
Best of luck with Mon Desir.
And isn’t # 18 the former Kickorangi? If so, I sailed her on San
Francisco bay as she was passing through on her way to Vancouver
in '77.
Stan, on Waxwing #22
I to have a BCC with a Fatty Knees dingy on chocks on the deck under the
boom. I would be very interested in seeing your arrangement for single
handed launching and stowing of your dingy.
If you have any pictures or a description of how you do this I would very
much appreciate your forwarding that information to me.
Steven Osborne
Crystal Swan II
Hull Number 91
----- Original Message -----
From: “Lokke Patrick” <getlokke@yahoo.com >
To: <bcc@yahoogroups.com >
Sent: Saturday, June 07, 2003 8:20 PM
Subject: Re: [bcc] Rigging
Rob,
I either have done or am contemplating some of the
things you’ve asked about, so please allow me to add
my two cents worth.
I’m contemplating a traveler - not to make my boat a
buoy racer, but to ease the helm when going upwind in
a blow. Dealing with too much weather helm isn’t fun
or fast racing or cruising. It has been suggested
that a simple bronze track on the taff rail with
adjustable stops would accomplish the objective
without changing the look of the boat too much. I
certainly wouldn’t want all the control blocks and
lines on modern travelers.
I converted my old single ended main sheet to a double
ended version terminating in cam cleats. This was
done to allow me to adjust the main more easily on
either tack, and I’m glad I made the change.
I can’t imagine the need to beef up your rigging
beyond standard. I can recommend an excellent rigger
in Long Beach, California if you’re interested.
I have a 7 foot Fatty Knees mounted on cabin top
chocks which I’m very happy with. Launching and
recovering it singlehanded was difficlut, but I’ve
recently improvised a sling and swivel which make it
much easier. If Mon Desire is still in Southern
California, drop by my boat and I’ll show you what
I’ve done. I’m in the Alamitos Bay Marina, Gangway
14. You can email me at getlokke@yahoo.com . The
earlier advice about not being too quick to make
changes is excellent. Get to know your boat first.
Lokke Patrick
S/V Resolute
BCC #55
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook™.
http://calendar.yahoo.comBRISTOL CHANNEL CUTTER OWNERS ASSOCIATION
Mail List Home: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bcc
BCC Owners Home: http://www.geocities.com/bccowners
Post message: mailto:bcc@yahoogroups.com
Subscribe: mailto:bcc-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Unsubscribe: mailto:bcc-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
List owner: mailto:bcc-owner@yahoogroups.comYour use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Rob,
Here is my advice, for what it’s worth:
- The rigger is recommending a traveler. My theory is that the
multi-block arrangement on a BCC acts as at least a semi-traveler.
But I’m in no position to argue with the rigger. Would this be a
significant performance improvement?
This greatly depends on how you plan to use the boat, what your
budget is, and what priority this falls into when considering other
improvements. We don’t have a BCC, but instead have a Westsail which
is very similar. We sail her often and have never felt it necessary
to install a traveler. Since our mainsheet blocks are on the
boomkin, we didn’t want to use the real estate on the trunk to
accomodate the new hardware. Besides, we do just fine without one.
- The rigger is recommending to increase the wire size for the
standing rigging by 1 size.
I discussed this option with Brion Toss when we visited the Seattle
Boat Show in January. He described the rigging as a system that is
carefully balanced by the designer. The hull, mast and standing
rigging are all designed to work together in a balanced fashion.
When you change one of the elements, you change the system. When it
comes to well-built boats, there’s a reason why the rigging was
designed with a particular wire size. Less reputable models use
smaller wire size because it’s more readily available, cheaper, or
otherwise. I respect Brion’s opinion on this, and we’re glad that
decided not to follow our rigger’s advice.
Regards,
Louis
s/v Synergy
Westsail 32 #679
|
Kate -- No specific plans at the moment. Perhaps west, considering several ideas. I'll let you know.
Roy
|
I installed the bronze cam cleats on my taffrail as outlined in “Cost
Conscious Cruiser”, used 3/16" brass plate. A pain to cut and fit,
the rigger will likely not be interested in fabricating something de
novo, but it works very well and fits beautifully with the
traditional look.
John Churchill
— In bcc@yahoogroups.com , “frwood2000” <frwood2000@y…> wrote:
Hi All,
This is my first posting, so please be gentle.
My BCC is in the process of being re-rigged and I am wondering if
anyone has experience and/or recommendations about the following
things:
The rigger is recommending a traveler. My theory is that the
multi-block arrangement on a BCC acts as at least a semi-traveler.
But I’m in no position to argue with the rigger. Would this be a
significant performance improvement?The rigger is recommending “modern” cleats for the main sheet.
Sumio told me that Harken 1574s have been installed by Sam L Morse
on
some BCCs with hull ids greater than 100. Is this a significant
performance improvement?The rigger is recommending to increase the wire size for the
standing rigging by 1 size.On a related note, I am hoping to add a dinghy to my cabin top
at
some point in the future. I am focused, but not stuck, on a Fatty
Knees. Has anyone had experience with a Fatty Knees (or other
dinghy) on the cabin top? If so, what size (7 or 8 ft)? And how
much do you need to raise the boom?NOTE: I’m not specifically looking to improve the performance of
my
BCC, but the rigger has a vision and I can’t re-shape that vision
unless I have some good information.Thanks for the help,
Rob Wood
S/V Mon Desir
BCC #18
|
you are so right thank god. hull 36
frank
|