Hello…
I got Ceryan’s transom fixed and painted. (Pictures later) When I took out the rudder I noticed that the plastic (may be neoprene) washers and bushing was too old. However I can not find new ones. Is there any place I can find or order?
Cheers
Meomeh CERYAN #53
i had a local machinist fabricate new bushings as well as several spares.
Try Mcmaster Carr catalogue for the flange type …I think I have seen them available in different materials. The flat Delrin part y ou should be able to make yourself from sheet stock if needed.
Best to you
Mark
SV “Grey Seal”
Thank you very much…
Are the flat washers plastic or other material?
I made spares for my BCC some years back and used Delrin
Best to you
Mark
Gee , could the flat washers be made of UHMW plastic , instead of "hydroscopic Delrin " ? As for the bronze shoulderd bushings , my rudder gudgeons don’t have any of those ???
Could those brnz shouldered bushings be a retro-fit , because of wear ???
Like it would be easier to bush than to replace a pentil .
Once , Pete Langly of PT Foundry , pointed out to me , that the bronze castings , that were cast in L A , were out of center which bowed the leading edge of the rudder , unless I got his explanation wrong . He said the miss-alignment was visable from the surface , and he could see it on Sam Morse factory produced boats .
On my next haul out I would like to replace those plastic washers. UHMW plastic seems like a good choice. I could make it from a sheet or possibly a round tube. Does anyone have the specs for that washer, like outside diameter, size of the hole and thickness?
Thanks,
Ron Thompson Ho’okahiko 97
Meomeh,
What’s the status of your rudder bushing project? Is your rudder rattleing around at all? If you grab the top of the rudder and shake it, does it make a noise? Maybe your bushing isn’t worn out, just cracked?
As I’ve mentioned in other threads, SLM BCC’s from the early '80s didn’t have rudder bushings. Shaula (1981, #59) had wear on both the pintle’s pin and the gudgeon’s hole that required taking pintles and gudgeons to the local marine machine shop. Sam told me that his foundry used naval bronze. The shop ordered some 1" naval bronze and replaced the worn pin. They drilled out the gudgeon holes and fit shoulder bushings–1/8" thicknesses. I had them do the two top gudgeons/pintles while we were in the water, and the lower one later when we were hauled out.
I had to make an epoxy shim for the top gudgeon to get everything lined up. I guess if the wear is significant on the gudgeon’s hole, the machine shop may not be able to know the location of the center of the original hole.
Dan Shaula
Hi Dan,
I was overseas for a while. Didn’t do much
However as Mark (Giegel) suggested I think I would be able to get them from Mcmaster Carr catalogue. Flat ones are easy. I will let you know.
Now I have different issues.
My propane tanks were bolted to the transom. I took them out and got the transom fixed and painted. But now I am stuck with them. The shop suggested building a airtight box and attaching it inside the cockpit lazareth. Starboard side, connected underneath the deck. Exhaust (if it leaks) hose will be a thru-hull. They told me that insurance companies require it.I think also have to replace the grounding plates. Since the boat is on the hard I might as well do it. But the screws are very hard to undo…
Maybe someone will know…
Hope to meet you some time…
Mehmet
CERYAN
Hi Dan,
I was overseas for a while. Didn’t do much
However as Mark (Giegel) suggested I think I would be able to get them from Mcmaster Carr catalogue. Flat ones are easy. I will let you know.
Now I have different issues.
My propane tanks were bolted to the transom. I took them out and got the transom fixed and painted. But now I am stuck with them. The shop suggested building a airtight box and attaching it inside the cockpit lazareth. Starboard side, connected underneath the deck. Exhaust (if it leaks) hose will be a thru-hull. They told me that insurance companies require it.I think also have to replace the grounding plates. Since the boat is on the hard I might as well do it. But the screws are very hard to undo…
Maybe someone will know…
Hope to meet you some time…
Mehmet
CERYAN
Mehmet,
OK on the McMaster bushings. Please let us know how that goes.
You might want to start another thread with your propane tank problem. That might help others searching the forum. Shaula is a kerosene boat, so I’ll let others address that one.
On your grounding plate problem, slotted heads on bolts, with frozen nuts are an all too frequent problem on boats. It’s one of several reasons why I now try to avoid slotted heads. If I were you, I’d find someone (preferably someone 6ft 4in, 200lbs) to hold a BIG screwdriver on the head, and then use a rachet wrench on the nut inside to do the turning. If the BIG screwdriver has a square shaft, you can put a crescent wrench on it and that helps to keep it from turning. If the big guy can hold it, either you will get the nut moving, or the bolt will break–both good outcomes! I’ve found that silicon bronze bolts sometimes tend to corrode away, so your slot may to toast.
If you’re dealing with the toast outcome, you will have to drill out the head of the bolt. Start with a small drill in the center of the bolt head (say 3/32"), and work your way up to about 3/8" or 7/16". I’d use carbide drills which are meant for drilling hard metals. I’d also lubricate the drill with something (I use Boeshield). The larger drills will probably hang up on edges in the hole, but I’ve found that if you run the drill at higher rpms as you engage metal, the drill won’t hang up (as often).
I guess another option is to use an angle grinder and grind off the nut. That requires good access, space-wise. If you don’t own an angle grinder, you could borrow or rent one. IF you have the access (usually I don’t!), this would be the quickest, if not the cheapest solution.
Hope this helps! Good luck, and let us know how it goes.
Regards, Dan