— In bcc@y…, “pelenur” <pelenur@y…> wrote:
Hello All–
After a very fun first season owning my BCC #86 (1989) “Patience”,
its time for me to get down and fix it up. Among other things, I am
replacing all the (original) running rigging and have some questions
for the group.
I am unhappy with the way all my sheets are set up. The blocks for
the Jibsheets are hanging off webbing slings hitched to the midship
hawseholes …can’t be right. The mainsheet goes thru two blocks
hung from the boom which are permanently rubbing/chafing together
(all blocks aboard are wood). The staysail sheets get caught up on
the foward hatch on every tack. I am also adding all the rigging for
my new asym spin, including a new halyard (and no spare sheaves on
the mast).
What would really help me is some pictures showing some of these
items in detail on a boat that works well…picture of the sprit
with
the spinnaker lines, details of the jib blocks and the mainsheet
blocks. Any opinions appreciated.
Other questions to throw out there:
- Feathering props: Max prop or Other-brand prop (flex-o-fold, etc)?
15" or 16"?
- Has anyone every thought of converting one of the water tanks to
an
extra fuel tank? I carry jerrycans on long trips and never use all
my
water, so I figured, why not convert one of the 2 30 gal tanks over
to fuel? Any thoughts?
- Permanent preventer…anyone use a boombrake or similar
contraption
to set up a permanent preventer?
Thanks everyone,
Julian
hello-
being semi-custom, each boat is a bit different. my jib sheet
blocks are mounted to fixed pad eyes on deck. i recently got a new
jib and measuring to be sure that tesion on foot and leach is equal
was a challenge. when off the wind, the lead ought to move forward
and this could be done with a barber hauler, but i have never
bothered. the webbing straps could be switched to a different place
along th bulwark if you are not happy with their placement. this may
require different straps, but this is easy to make. you will want to
be able to move them for your chute anyway.
the staysail sheets are a problem for me as well, especially as my
spinnaker pole is mounted on the mast. i have installed an extra set
of hinges on the scuttle so it opens forward and i lead a shock cord
from the forward mast down to these so the sheets won’t foul the pole,
winches, etc.
spinnaker-i will post a good article from neil pryde on cruising
chutes. i have an ancient crosscut symmetric chute that i got for
$100. assymetric should be similar though. not all forespar masts are
the same. i asked forespar about how to mount a spinnaker block, they
said off the tang, and would not believe that i did not have one until
i sent them a diagram. i fabricated a crane out of 1/2" x 1 1/2"
aluminum bar, but found it straightened itself out after the first use
(it required a torch and breaker bar to put the 30 degree bend in it
to start), so i had it reinforced with a welded web and it seems to be
ok. typically, you want it above and forward of the headstay,
especially so if you have a furler, making the lack of an extra sheave
a moot point. i assume you have jib/main/topping lift. i switched my
topping lift to a block hung on the backstay crane to give me a spare
halyard. some people do use a masthead sheave, then fly the
assymetric inside the headstay, but the jib sheets tend to interfere
with sail shape if you have a furler. also there are significant
chafe concerns with this arrangement as the halyard tends to go
laterally with a chute rather than strait up and down with most sails.
therefore, a swivel block on a crane is most common. i also have a
wire luff drifter. i set it using the spinnaker halyard as it chafed
when on the masthead halyard. my halyard is run to a cleat seized to
the forward lower shroud, not a completely satisfactory arrangement.
on the sprit, i have an eyebolt inboard of the cranse iron that i use
for the tack of the drifter. this might be ok for an assymetric tack
attachment point as well. i have on occasion used a webbing strap on
the outboard end to the sprit (when trying to get the #&^$#(*!!!
clevis pin in the furler) and this might be an option as well. some
people use the furled jib as an attachment point. i did this on my
last boat and chafe did not seem to be the problem i expected,
although adjustment was not real smooth. you want the tack line to be
adjustable to control sail shape.
i have used a snuffer or sock and found it makes life much easier,
especially singlehanding. the sail almost always come in dry, my main
criteria for a satisfactory take-down.
water/fuel-
i have a 26 and a 17 gal water tank, and keep 2 jerry jugs in the
lazarette, giving me 52 gal capacity. i have never needed it all, but
did tend to incorporate watering in my cruise planning in the
bahamas. while there i also kept a 14 gal flexible bladder tied on
deck between the companionway and skylight. we used the ice meltwater
for showering and drank mostly canned beverages. a salt water pump in
the galley markedly decreased my water needs. i think 30 gallons only
would be cutting it short for us. I also carry 2 fuel tanks of 30 and
26 gallons. long powering range is nice even if fuel is readily
available like on the ICW where it is day after day motoring. i
currently carry only one extra jerry jug of fuel. a second jug would
be nice to have to halve the number of trips to a non dockside filling
station and also to be able to balance. i have seen some people with
a contoured yoke across there shoulders and 2 jugs. other couples use
a longitudinal pole, carrying the jugs “dead tiger” style. my problem
is that i like to keep the decks clear and there is no more room in
the lazarette. i do carry a 1 gallon can of diesel in the forepeak,
useful for filling the fuel filter and dispensing small amounts for
cleaning, etc.
preventer-
i have a vang that i use from a boom bail to a tab on the mast. i
can only use it when the dink is not aboard. therefore, when i am
deeper than a close reach, i run this over to a padeye on the rail,
where it provides both vanging and preventing functions. some people
refer to this arrangement as a “prevanger”. Roger’s point about rough
water is a critical one and if the boom comes at all close to the
water, i have a permanently rigged line from the aft end of the boom
which i run thru the hawse hole forward to take over preventer
function, then i can lead the vang a bit more aft to protect the boom.
you want this to be rigged to the outboard end of the boom before you
actually need it. for me, the boombrake would probably be in the way
of my dinghy.
john churchill