Our 1990 BCC scuttle hatch had 1/8" teak plywood glued to the mahogany frame with resorcinal glue and tacked with ferous metal tacks, a 1/4" layer of mahogany plywood on top in same fashion, and teak planks bedded in polysulfide and screwed through all ply to the frame.
We were able to save the frame with a lot of very careful work, drilled and plugged all holes with mahogany 3/16 plugs and epoxy, a zillion of them. We applied (2) 1/4" layers of brunzeel plywood with West Systems epoxy and Colloidal Silica and clamped until dried, leave extra to trim. We sanded everything to fit and bathed it all in acetone to remove any trace of oil, never sand afterwards as this brings oils to the surface and will result in glue failure.
We wanted a much stronger scuttle hatch than the factory built one, not to say their was anything wrong with the original, even with a rotten ply core a 220 pound guy (me) could jump on it all day long, but we wanted hair line wood joints, zero chance for water intrusing, and no chance of a breaking sea caving in a 3’ square foot hatch.
Measure the distance across the front top and the rear top and devide to arrive at teak plank width, rear is wider, allow a little extra width to trim for angles of all four sides. All planks were 3/4" teak, no screws, no plugs, rabbit cut, bedded in epoxy and payed with Teak Deck Systems 440 silicone deck caulk; I would have prefered to use Sikaflex 290 DC but you can’t get it in the US, real tough stuff and wears like iron and if necessary it’s paintable unlike TDS; we could have got it out of Canada but the cost was 50% more with shipping. I called the Sikaflex factory and asked why they don’t sell in the US, they said, “They screwed up, good product, but bad marketing plan killed US sales.”
The eyebrows or teak trim around the scuttle hatch will take more wood than you think, allow extra to make the curve. The only screws and teak plugs we used were used for the eyebrows to kep them in place while the epoxy cures, can’t clamp it as there are to many angled surfaces. Eyebrows underside edge angles down away from the hatch frame, this forces the water to drain outward to the outside lower edge of the eyebrow.
Measure 10 times, scratch both ends and cut once, this is a trapazoid shaped hatch, or may be mongoloid hatch, lol. We put wood slats across the hatch opening on the boat and covered with plastic and and duct taped it in place, and re-taped every 2 weeks as the tape failes, we took our time, off and on about 6 weeks and the hatch came out perfectly. I think there are still photo on the SLM website, under maintanance, Shamrock.
----- Original Message ----
From: BCC Forums firstname.lastname@example.org
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2008 4:15:04 PM
Subject: [BCC Forum Post] Dioscouri: Scuttle hatch teak
Subject: Scuttle hatch teak
Forum: BCC Forum
I am planning to replace the teak on my scuttle hatch, seahood and companionway slide. My BCC #64 is a 1983 Sam Morse model. Does anyone know whether the teak is simply screwed in place? Or, was the practice to also use an adhesive?
I would like to remove and replace with minimal damage.
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