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Why not consider doing what Hinckley and Swan do and installing
Marelon seacocks . I had a similar experience with well bonded
seacocks.
Jim Hiller
On Jan 24, 2005, at 11:39 PM, Marty Chin wrote:
We noted electrolisis on all the mushroom thru-hull fittings,
significant enought to warrant removing all seacocks and thru-hull
fitting for close inspection. I was curious to find that none of the
thru-hull fittings had been bonded. Experts seem to be devided
regarding weather to bond or not to bond thru-hulls.We found that the
level of electrolisis increased as the distance from the propeller
shaft zinc increased, with the head thru-hulls in the bow having the
highest metal loss, the seacocks showed similar wastage. With the
flange type seacocks, the mushroom thru-hull fitting passed from
outside of the hull, through the hull and plywood backing block,
screwing directly into the bottom of the seacock. The threaded portion
of the mushroom thru-hull fittings were cut to short, engaging 2-4
threads of the seacock, water and subsequent corrosion wasted away
remaining exposed threads, was a shame, considering 3 of the 4 1-1/2"
seacocks were otherwise restored to like new condition. Dispite
conflicting opinion, you can bet, if its under water we’re going to
bond it! The next step in fighting galvanic corrosion is to install a
galvanic isolator to isolate the shore power ground.Shamrock has Spartan Marine Hardware, conical valve bronze seacocks as
installed at the factory when built, we order new replacement for all
today from: http://www.spartanmarine.com/We found it less expensive to replace the Spartan seacocks rather than
fill all the thru-bolt mounting holes in the hull, 2 per seacock and
re-drill for Groco BV series. We don’t mind disassembling the Spartan
valves and servicing them at haul out, sort of a boating ritual.
Besides, it nice to look inside the valve and see whats going on
inside, something you can’t do with a ball valve. With the ball valve,
best you can do is wrestle off the hose and look down inside and check
the condition of the ball, applying grease through the hose barb realy
doesn’t work as the nylon socket tends to wipe the grease from the
ball as it is opened and closed.Servicing is simple, remove the locking nut opposit the handle,
backing nut and plate and slide out the plug and attached handle,
degrease, clean with white vinegar, re-grease and your done. If the
fit is not smooth and clean, use a fine grade valve grinding compound
coating on the plug, reinsert the plug and rotate the handle back and
forth 30 times, remove and clean, re-check to see if you have a clean
mating surface of the plug and seacock body, if so, clean throughly,
grease and reassemble, ok, may be now your done…In a pinch, and with a good diver, the diver can insert a wooden plug
in the thru-hull fitting while the boat is in the water, sealing off
the water and the Spartan seacocks can be service without hauling the
boat.The Spartan standard 1-1/2" model with the straight 1-1/2" hose barb
cast into the top of the seacock, saves on buying additional fittings
to adapt to scupper or galley sink hose. The engine inlet uses the
3/4" standard model with a 3/4" cast in hose barb. The head inlet and
discharge use a “seacock with adapter”, instead of a hose barb, it has
a male threaded barb for attaching 90 deg or straight fitting with a
locking collar, both the 1-1/2" head discharge and the 3/4" seawater
inlet use the seacock with adapter and 90 degree fitting.We really liked the Groco BV series valves and the BVH with integral
straight hose barb, considered the best in the industry; we ran into a
problem finding hose-pipe fitting from Groco and Buck Algonquin which
screwed directly into the seacock that were 1-1/2 NPT and 1-1/2 hose,
our supplier did not carry the BVH Series, we could have used bushings
or adapters to make them work, but by the time you add all the
fittings the cost quickly rises above the Spartan valves by a fair
margin. The Groco BV/BVH models require no maintenance and can be
rebuilt; although I haven’t seen anyone who carries the repair kits,
willing to bet they are almost as expensive as the complete seacock,
probably better off replacing when they no longer seal properly.The best buy in mushroom thru-hull fittings for us was Groco,
excellent machine work, list price is $23 for the 1-1/2 and $6.5 for
the 3/4" model, our distributor Svendsen’s Marine sells them below
list price.Hope you find this useful.
Best wishes,
Marty Chin, BCC Shamrock
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Hi Marty , Gee , we all do enjoy and appreciate your input and the knowledge you share with us.
Currently, located in Singapore , was asked by a fellow boater, what waterproof sea cock grease was available locally to lube the Spartan tapered plug sea cocks.
The inquirer had used a black sticky cable grease in the past with reasonable results, or so he said, and was looking for more or a substitute.
I am wondering if the aluminum neversieze could be used with success, and how about smearing the threads of the sea cock to thru hull with same ?
Un-like your experience, the un-bonded, mushroom thru hulls on BCC 72, for the last 6 years, have not had visable evidence of electrolysis in this polluted, warm tropical sea water over here , at least not yet, thank goodness !
Because barnicle growth over here is extra ordinary fast, I have been coating my prop while underwater, with an English, suposedly waterproof grease, named “Beechems”, but it is a bit hard to get it to stick on the bronze prop in some places, so I am looking for a more sticky waterproof grease to use, any ideas ?
I have only been using the grease on the prop in marinas when my BCC is layed-up .
Thanks again for sharing your discoveries with all of us, Douglas