How to free up a bronze seacock with tapered valve-shaft? What has always
worked for me in the past is to loose both of those nuts and than give the
shaft a stout whack with a reasonably heavy hammer. Back the nuts off far
enough to protect the threads at the end of the axle bolt so they don’t get
dinged-over. If there is still some grease in the joint, after retightening
this is usually enough to do the trick. If it still drips, sometimes a leaky
tapered bronze seacock can be made good by dissassembling & using valve
grinding compound to relap the mating surfaces, sometimes not – all depends
on how badly scored or damaged it is.
I think in this case I would haul her first, in case the seacock to hull
bond has been compromised by the lightning strike, corrosion, whatever . .
.. Necessary anyhow if you need to try relapping the valve. A good dollop of
grease is needed when it is reassembled. I wonder if the heat generated by
the lightning strike might have vaporized the grease in the valve? Probably
best to haul, dissassemble, inspect and then decide.
We hauled Itchen yesterday in preparation for a run later this month from
the Chesapeake (Solomons) to Penobscot Bay – will replace zincs, repaint
the bottom, and free up one seized seacock that I feel nervous about
whacking too hard while still in the water! I was appalled to find the
MaxProp zinc and one of the rudder gudgeon zincs entirely wasted away,
though all had been replaced in late November. She’s been in the water in a
marina slip since then and I wonder if stray currents from nearby boats
might be a factor. No damage to the prop, fortunately.
Regards,
Scott
S/V Ithchen BCC #73