Teak Guard

This is a water based sealer made in Australia. Anyone have any previous experience? It went on ugly milky and dried gorgeous in an hour. I just posted a couple of photos on blog.

Hi David,
Looks great. Obviously, you will have to reapply down here in the near tropic conditions. Question is how often? Yearly? biannually? One coat or 2? I guess time will tell, but looks easier to apply than varnish.
s/v Nereus

The boat looks grand. I suspect Bob and Jimmie stop by to see the progress.


I’ve just done my gunwales with another Australian product - Deks Olje.
It’s done in two stages, the base coat goes on wet on wet until the wood won’t absorb any more, then 6 gloss topcoats which can be spot repaired unlike ‘traditional’ varnishes.

Here are a few shots of the Honduras mahogany gunwales at different stages.
The newly sanded timber was beautiful, but pretty much impossible to finish without making it darker, even though the base coat is virtually colourless.
As each coat of the top coat went on, it started to glow more and more.

Over here the sun is so harsh I couldn’t leave the timber untreated.
I’m very happy with the Deks Olje so far, and will report on how it stands up to the UV over time.

Gunwales 1.jpg

Gunwales sanded.jpg

Deks Olje 1.jpg

Deks Olje 2.jpg

when I was in Florida at Indian town marina, BCC flyer whic was also in the yard had made just a sterling job of the woodwork with a material known as Semco. I believe it was an oil base and went on very easily no masking required and you just kept on recoating periodically. It looked like recently sanded wood.

While we are on the subject –

I’m using Sutherland Welles Polymerized Tung Oil now. I put some on my ladder steps - so far so good… and plan to do the handrails on cabin top and fwd scuttle threshold with it this summer… I’ll let you know how it goes, but it got great reviews by the guys at Gannon & Benjamin on Martha’s Vineyard.

Ben, it sounds like the Sutherland Welles Polymerized Tung Oil is one of the bare-wood treatments rather than a varnish. Let me know how it holds up on exterior wood over time … I might like to try something like that if it works.

BCC Jolie Brise

Ben - I’m looking at refinishing the sliding hatch and the scuttle hatch.
I was wondering how your varnish over caulk experiment has worked out in the long run?

Has anyone else got any words of wisdom on the subject of varnish/caulk combination?


What I’ve found is that the caulk used plays a significant role in how the varnish will hold up, or how it will look I should say. I can say that Boat Life Type P 2 part caulk does not work as well as their one part caulk. Type P shrinks in the seam leaving a hollow between the ‘planks’. It also causes tiny hairline cracks to develop. I’m not sure if the cracks are in the caulk or in the varnish.

I’ve had better luck stabilizing the cracking by using Bristol Finish, the 2 part ‘varnish’. But time will tell, It’s been a few years, but most of my hatches rarely see the light of day. Initially I laid 8 coats of Epifanes rapid clear, then 2 coats of regular high gloss varnish. The cracks showed up as white cracks everywhere after a few months. I just added 2 coats of Bristol Finish to the hatch this spring, and the cracks have been muted. 2 pics are linked below, I just took these. Excuse the dirt in the varnish, it was a windy day, in a dusty marina :frowning: But I’ve always been one for ‘protection over perfection’.

Although I like protecting the teak, one thing you lose by varnishing the tops of the slide, turtle and scuttle is the natural non-skid characteristics. But this has never been an issue that made me want to strip my hatches.

So, if I were to do it again, I’d use Boat Life single part caulk (or some other brand), and go with my regular routine of Rapid Clear for build coats, and Bristol Finish for top coats.



Thanks Ben.

What a great bunch of people we have on this forum!

It goes without saying that we are all men and women of impeccable taste and sensibility, having chosen this wonderful boat over all others!

What makes the forum so special however is the willingness of everyone to contribute their time and experience for the benefit of others.
Thank you all!

Mike Guy
Adventure. BCC Hull No. 79.

How timely this is. I have my hatches ready for caulking and have been trying to decide 2part Boatlife vs

How timely this is. I have my hatches/seahood ready for caulking and have been trying to decide 2 part Boatlife vs. 1 part. Certainly 1 part is exponentially easier to apply. Have you or anyone else had experience with the one part Boatlife or just bad experience with the two part?
Also, in other forums, I’ve seen comparisons with various varnishes. One trial used Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer (CPES) as a sealer and Detco’s Crystal varnish and reported very good luck with this combination.


I would certainly like to do this right the first time, since, as you know,taking the hatches and seahood to bare wood is not something I’d like to do again anytime soon.

Patrick Rudy
s/v Nereus

I think CPES is a good product. I used it on my bulwarks before painting. 2.5 years into the painted bulwarks, and no major cracking/splitting yet… still too early to tell though. I do have a crack at one seam. I only did one coat of CPES, would have liked to have done two, but ran out.

One part boatlife seems OK. I do notice a bit of a greenish/brownish tint, but it doesn’t bother me. That might be because I used ALL Bristol Finish (6 coats) on that hatch, which has pigment in it, and that would tint the caulk a bit. The Type P seems to be more true black, but that could be because I used Rapid Clear to build coats.

I tried to run good experiments, but there are so many variables.

I did just take pics of the fwd scuttle hatch, with uses Boatlife 1 part, and now I’m noticing a slight, very slight hollow in the caulk. But you can see, no cracking, but slight brownish tint from what I can say with 95% assurance is due to Bristol Finish.



Thanks Ben,
With your findings, I think I will go with the Boatlife 1 part, then CPES as a sealer, followed by 8 coats of Schooner gold. Down here I need as much UV protection as I can get.

Patrick Rudy