Belt dust is directly related to:
Improper belt tension and alignment, on the longest
length, port side, you should have 3/8-1/2" deflection
under firm pressure with your finger; I know that is
“firm,” this is subjective at best, use your best
judgement. To much tension will damage the belt,
alternator and freshwater circulation pump bearings,
to little tension and the belt sheds burns and sheds
rubber particles. Use a disposable paint brush and a
vacuum to clean the timing cover, its easy to see
particles forming with a clean surface.
Improper belt size and type. Often called
alternator belts,fan belts are also refered to as
V-Belts as they form a letter V with the bottom cut
off, the sides of this V form an angle, its important
to get the proper sized belt with the correct angle to
match the pulleys on your engine. It is also important
to match the pulley grove angle when adding a
non-stock pulley as in adding a high-output
alternator. We prefer to use industrial quality belts,
they look cloth wrapped and tend to last longer and
shed less if tension is not absolutely correct.
3 In some cases corrosion in the pulleys (shame on
you). The 3M cleaning pads, synthetic sand paper works
Loose alternator mount brackets, worn mounting
ears, and weak bracketry which allow th alternator to
move out of alignment when running will also cause the
formation of belt dust and excess wear.
Cogged belts work incredibly well, but setup and
tensioning is critical to preventing excessive wear.
When set up properly they will outlast the V-belt
Yanmar fuel banjo leaks: Best thing to do is check
banjo bolt tension periodically and replace the copper
crush washers (seals) every couple of years, they are
cheap; as the name implies “crush” they are deformed
as you tighten the fittings, continuning to tighten
over a number of years will compress and harder these
washer to a point where you can not stop the leak
without excess torque, don’t do it, buy and install
Marty Chin, BCC Shamrock.
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